pcard

Hi Guys:
I have a 7042253 carb on my 1970 455. I know it is not the right year carb but it is working great.
The fuel line just developed a leak where the flare fitting of the fuel line joins the fuel filter housing. I have tightened the flare nut a bit but it still leaks so I am going to change the fuel line and filter housing.
When I installed the carb, ten years ago, I had the carb tightened down, but could not get the fuel line into the fuel filter housing because the thermostat housing was in the way. I had to take the carb off again, hook up the fuel line and then refasten the carb. Here is a photo after installation.


My question is this:
Can I swap the fuel filter housing from a long one to a short one so that the fuel line clears the thermostat housing?
Here is a link to the short housing from qudrajetpower.
https://quadrajetpower.com/fuel-filt...1-threads-new/

Also, I was thinking off using a copper flare washer. Any thoughts on this?

Thanks, Peter

442Harv

Was the line a pre made, or did you bend it? It looks to long, can you cut it and re flair it? Is the short one for a Chevy carb? You would have to use the Chevy or short filter also. The Olds one just looks better and a correct look.

joe_padavano

Using the short filter housing means that the pre-bent line won't be shaped correctly. It also means that you are forced to use the short inlet filter with less media area. As for the copper flare washers, I've always considered them to be a band-aid for people who can't flare steel tubing. I've never needed them. If the joint is leaking, look for damage to the flares or a crack in the line, specifically at the weld seam. I had a factory fuel line on my 454 truck crack on the weld line at this bend.

pcard

Thank you Joe.
Unfortunately I am using a preformed line.
I am replacing the fuel line, again preformed, and the filter housing so hopefully will get a good seating.
Is it possible to bend the line so that it would clear the thermostat housing? I would need to gain clearance equal to the depth of the flare orifice on the filter housing.

joe_padavano

The OEM line should have just enough clearance to allow you to disconnect it with everything in place. I can only attribute this problem to aftermarket bends, likely not in exactly the factory location to allow enough of a straight section to install the nut and flare the line after bending. I have a bender from Burroughs Tool that is designed to clear the nut and flare when you hold the tube, allowing that first bend to be closer to the nut and thus providing clearance to the t-stat housing.

pcard

You are right about the aftermarket stuff, but I do not have the tools nor expertise to make my own lines.
Hopefully one of the new lines I get from Fusik and InLineTube( I bought two to increase the chance of a good one), will fit better.
I will cut the old line out and then try to fit the new. Fingers crossed I don't have to resort to removing the carb.

I will be doing the work in April and will update the thread with results.

Thanks for your help.

Peter

307-5a

I had the same issue , original fuel line leaking fuel at the flare fitting, leaking fuel onto top of engine , amazing the car did not burn . I took my car to one of the best shops in my area , they could not make up another solid line from pump to carb and get it to not leak .They did try but ! End result, removed long filter housing , used a short filter housing , used a rubber hose fitting on the shorter filter housing ,used some solid line coming from pump . Now have a section of rubber fuel line hose . There is no filter in the short filter housing so now less chance of cross threading the filter housing into the carb . No need to open it ! Installed an inline fuel filter before the fuel pump . Not sure if i also need a filter after the pump ? For my car , i do not care about how it looks , i do not want a fire. And now have lots of room to remove thermostat housing . And do not have to take the Carb off as described above.