wolfman98

Trying to hook up the backup lights that were unhooked when I got the car for some reason. I found the wires and turned the key on then put the car in R but don't get the lights to work. i am pretty sure that I have the correct wires as the others go to the rear lights or ground , plus one that goes to the fuel tank. the only other two wires are light green and end at the center of the trunk , and they are not hooked to anything . So my question is : should they work just with the key turned on and the the shifter put into R ? I should not have to have the car running do I ?

jaunty75

My experience has always been that the car need not be running. With the key on and the transmission in reverse, the backup lights should be on.

wolfman98

I thought this myself and I know the fuse works cause it's in with the signal lights etc so I am going to have to start tracing backwards. Is there a relay or wire inside the steering column?

Bluevista

If it's like mine the only thing the reverse lights have have to do with the column is that the neutral safety/reverse light switch screws to and that it switches it mechanically with the lever, nothing electrical inside. Those switches can go bad or get out of adjustment but the light should still come on at some point when you're shifting if it's good? Did you try running it through the gears to see if they comes on a little out of reverse either way on the shift indicator?
Wiring isn't my thing but I can figure it out with a lot of pondering and contemplation.
Rob is the sparky here.

wolfman98

I will try that but need an extra pair if eyes at the back , since the lights are sitting in the trunk.

Yellowstatue

The back-up wires are light green and you should have a test light to see if you have power at the neutral start switch and then in the trunk with the key on and the shifter in reverse ...

wolfman98

Thanks , I do have 2 light green wires as well as what looks like black or dark brown that I think is the lisence plate light. Those 3 are not connected to anything , I will take the tester over there this week to see if there is power there. neither light works so I am thinking it may be the switch but I hope not.I don't know how hard it will be to get to.

Yellowstatue

If it is column shift the switch will be mounted on the top side of the column above the brake pedal...there will be a black plug with the two green wires and one of them will have power when the gear is in reverse and if the switch is working then both will have power...

wolfman98

Well I took my tester over there and determined that there is power all the way to the backup lights but the bulb itself will not light up? Now I tried 4 bulbs that all look fine but none work and I don't know if it may be that there is not enough juice to light the bulbs. Is there a ground somewhere associated with these 2 wires that could cause this. I just have the tester with a light that only shows me there is juice but I ground the tester.I am going to check the grounds today.

Jamesbo

What about the lady you moved the washer for [when you messed up your back ]

wolfman98

I did have her there this past weekend with no luck but with my circuit tester I know I have power back there but the bulbs still won't light , I even pushed out the contact in one of the housings and cleaned it up then put the bulb directly on it with no luck so I don't know if it could be a ground causing the problem or that there is not enough juice to light the bulb? I am really confused on this one but electrical always does.

Lady72nRob71

the key should be in RUN. If the turn signals work, then reverse will (on same circuit.)
Having power to the light green in reverse is good.
The backup lamp sockets should ground right to the chassis, either by the metal shell of the socket, or black wires from the sockets connected to chassis. How many wires come out of the socket?
You can also run an extra ground wire from the socket right to a clean metal area on the frame to verify good ground.
The loose brown wire i would bet goes to the license light.
Of course I cannot actually see anything....

wolfman98

Only the one green wire to each backup light. There is a black ground wire that is on the trunk latch and I will make sure that it's a good ground.I knew that it was on the same fuse as signals and they worked but not the backups.

montvaleplace

I think I know what is going on here since it just happened to me last week. The ground for the backup lights go through the bulb socket, through the light housing, the rear bumper, bumper bracket, to the frame and back to the battery. The problem is corrosion between the bulb socket and the light housing. The socket is crimped at the factory to creat the connection so you have to peel it open a bit then remove the socket and clean it out and then re-crimp it. Or you can just get replacement backup light housings. By the way the same thing happened to my plate light housing so don't be surprised if you find any one wire self grounded lights doing that kind of stuff. Good luck...

wolfman98

That sounds like a possibility , thanks I will take them apart and see if I can clean them up.

montvaleplace

Take an ohms meter and test the resistance between the bulb socket and the light housing, the reading should be zero or close to it to work properly. If you have infinite resistance (meter reads O.L.) you have a problem. OH, and while the light housing is out make sure to clean the contact points between the housing and bumper...Good luck...

wolfman98

Seemed to test ok but since the backup lights are in the continental kit I am looking at a bad ground from there to the bumper. I am going to make sure all contact points are clean when I put it back together. Currently painting it so I can do the points where it hooks up to the back bumper , then after it will be contact points of the housings to the continental kit and contact points in the conti kit itself. If that does not work then may try a separate ground from housing to frame. Somethings bound to work.

greenslade

I use a buzzer to check a circuit that is out of sight when it sound thenI know I have a live circuit,to test the ground stick the test light probe into light socket and touch the clip end to the side of socket if test light don't light then go to the next ground point ei housing--bumper -mounts --frame.when test light lights up you know thanyou have just passed the faulty ground point.If you had bumper off to paint frame and mounts that may be the cause of bag ground connection..

wolfman98

just an update for those who helped out with this one , I have evrything back together and working. It was a ground issue and after cleaning up all contact points it worked fine , though I had one bad bulb which was easy enough. thanks all.

Yellowstatue

Now you owe each of us a cheeze burger, fries and a vanilla shake with two straws!!!

wolfman98

Sure , how bout y'all come down this summer and i'll throw some ribs and burgers on the BBQ.