66 cutlass 455 swap with Holley intake,to tall!
#1
66 cutlass 455 swap with Holley intake,to tall!
Another rock in the road,slid a 455 with a 200R4 ito my 66 cutlass vert,had SB. I added a Holley street dominator intake & used the Qjet. Tried the OE a/f ,nix that & can't seem to find a aftermarket a/f that is about flush to close the hood. Any ideas,fixes seeing this is a nice & fairly common mod. somebody had to come across this issue? Thanks in advance
#2
I use this:
http://www.ss396.com/mm5/merchant.mv..._Code=ATE-3907
There is also one wit a black lid.
http://www.ss396.com/mm5/merchant.mv..._Code=ATE-3907
There is also one wit a black lid.
Last edited by oldcutlass; October 27th, 2013 at 04:58 PM.
#5
#6
66 455 a/f to tall
I use this:
http://www.ss396.com/mm5/merchant.mv..._Code=ATE-3907
There is also one wit a black lid.
http://www.ss396.com/mm5/merchant.mv..._Code=ATE-3907
There is also one wit a black lid.
#7
#8
I removed my pad because it was worn and oil soaked due to blowby belching from the original 330. Trim is still in place.
If your exhaust is at least 2.5 inch you can probably reuse your current exhaust, however I suggest either 455 stock or aftermarket manifolds, or run a set of headers.
#9
Order a/f ,looks tight with the element hgt., but 2" will make a diff. (she said). Talked to the guy at Classic Exhaust says header pipes are larger but its the same bend worth a shoot. Starting to Look into headrs as well,what did u install,and how much agony was it?
#10
Depending which manifolds you are planning to run, you may have to change out the drivers side pipe connection, as the SBO drivers side pipe has a tiny diameter (2" ?. The pass side pipe on SBO & BBO are same (2 1/4")
The angles will be slightly different- so they should be close. I think the main issue will be that drivers side manifold exit.
I am quite happy with my Headman comp headers on my 66, but they do take some massaging work to clear everything- which means taking them in and out a handful of times to get them right. I like the end result though... and much easier to connect up a true performance exhaust.
The angles will be slightly different- so they should be close. I think the main issue will be that drivers side manifold exit.
I am quite happy with my Headman comp headers on my 66, but they do take some massaging work to clear everything- which means taking them in and out a handful of times to get them right. I like the end result though... and much easier to connect up a true performance exhaust.
#11
Ok through one now on to another issue. I'm looking at going to 17" wheels/tires,& how wide one can go in the rear with a 0 offset? I'm looking at 8" in the frontwhich should work ok,9" in the rear if it fits. Also will be installing a 8.5 10 bolt from a '73,but i think 66 Olds/Pontiac's & up had a wider 8.2 being the 8.5 had the same width,right?
#12
73-77 had a different suspension design, and the rear end won't interchange with the earlier cars, regardless of the ring gear size.
64-66 a-bodies had the same axle width, and would be "correct" width for your 66.
67-72 a-bodies rear is 1" wider overall, but will still fit and bolt into your car.
The carrier is a different conversation- I'd recommend starting a new thread in the right section to ask rear axle questions, there are a couple experts on this site who can give you real specific answers to your questions and point you the right way.
Same thing on the wheels/tires questions.
One of the moderators (Richard / gearhead) had a 66 cutlass and he did alot of research and work lowering his car and fitting some big wheels on it, and it looked great. His build thread is still in the "major projects" section- do a search for 66 cutlass convertible and you'll find it. All you could possibly want to know about fitting big wheels on a 66... and a lot of other great detail work he did on that car.
:-)
64-66 a-bodies had the same axle width, and would be "correct" width for your 66.
67-72 a-bodies rear is 1" wider overall, but will still fit and bolt into your car.
The carrier is a different conversation- I'd recommend starting a new thread in the right section to ask rear axle questions, there are a couple experts on this site who can give you real specific answers to your questions and point you the right way.
Same thing on the wheels/tires questions.
One of the moderators (Richard / gearhead) had a 66 cutlass and he did alot of research and work lowering his car and fitting some big wheels on it, and it looked great. His build thread is still in the "major projects" section- do a search for 66 cutlass convertible and you'll find it. All you could possibly want to know about fitting big wheels on a 66... and a lot of other great detail work he did on that car.
:-)
#14
BTW oldcutlass that a/f worked great,tight fit just used a bolt to be flush. Now have to work out the Qjet bugs,loping idle,running lean,no mixture adjustment on the lft side,carb came with the running engine??
#18
455 a/f problem
Ah so you went off the rails a bit,I thought all the folks on this forum were stone cold OldsMos! What ever fits i guess,many thanks for tip,with all the little bumps in the road it speeds the process for sure.
#23
Well from what diff carbs with elec chokes i've seen,they sit to high & it doesn't look like a carb with an elec choke will clear the a/f base,but there again mayb there one somebodys found to work?
#24
That A/F base was stock for a BB Corvette, Camaro, Chevelle, etc.. It should work with any carb other than a Carter AFB or Edelbrock. I know it fits a Rochester and a Holley Street Avenger 770 both with electric chokes, because my friends use them on theirs. The real limiting factor is the intake.
#25
Well i talked to cliff ruggles and he recommended a 75 Qjet 850 reworked for my app,with elec choke,with an arm up for TV cable pull,although he didn't have a answer on the af housing fit. I guess its deceiving from how the pic looked he sent with the elec. choke. Thanks again
#29
When I was racing Street Stock on dirt, they used to require 2 bbl carbs by rule. We used to take a stock air filter base that fit a small Rochester, cut out the area that fit the carb horn, and pop rivet and silicone that to an aftermarket filter. It also meant offsetting the center to clear the distributor, but you get the idea - its a flexible solution.
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