To Tow, or not to tow, that is the question...
#1
To Tow, or not to tow, that is the question...
I am moving Sunday and was planning on using a Penske Truck and car dolly to tow my 69 Olds Delta 88. Took the Olds down to the rental place and put it on the dolly--just to see if it would work. It kinda did, kinda didn't. It fit, but the fenders of the car are only 1 1/2 inches on either side from the fenders of the dolly. The concern was that if I made a turn, the fenders would rub. Is this true? How the hell else can I get the thing 2/3 of the way across the country without going the car transport route? I hesitate to drive it...it has never had driveability issues, but 2160 miles is a good bit away for an old car. Have any of you had experience towing these things? Would 1 1/2 inches be okay? Would there really be movement when I turn in the truck? The tow carrier (Towing on all four wheels of a pull-behind carrier) won't work, because of weight restrictions. HELP!!!! Running out of time and options!
#2
I know it will cost you something, but I would go the professional transport route. Get it moved by someone with the right equipment so it ends up at your new home in the same condition as it left your old home. The last thing you want is to damage it en route and spend as much or more fixing it than you would have spent getting it transported. Your own 2000 mile drive will more comfortable and easier as well without something in tow.
I needed my '73 Custom Cruiser, which I had just bought, moved 90 miles. It hadn't been driven in five years, and while I could have done a few things to it at the seller's end and tried to drive it home, I decided in the end to have it transported. It was the smartest thing I could have done. Car was delivered safe and sound to the base of my driveway, and I drove it into my garage where I could work on it they way I wanted to before letting it make its debut on the highway.
I needed my '73 Custom Cruiser, which I had just bought, moved 90 miles. It hadn't been driven in five years, and while I could have done a few things to it at the seller's end and tried to drive it home, I decided in the end to have it transported. It was the smartest thing I could have done. Car was delivered safe and sound to the base of my driveway, and I drove it into my garage where I could work on it they way I wanted to before letting it make its debut on the highway.
#3
Trailer it
My last move, through mountains and desert and only 500 miles I used a U-haul car trailer not a problem, it tracks good and no white knuckles. The move before I dollied 500 miles, the thing swayed back and forth above 50, no thanks maybe cross town but not cross country. Get a bigger truck and trailer it.
Last edited by a64olz; July 16th, 2010 at 05:14 AM. Reason: spellun
#4
Consider the car's suspension movement during turns and there might be some paint to fender contact.
When I bought my '72, it was in very good shape to drive and the seller and I split the cost of having a mechanic go through it well and get it ready for the 1900 mile journey. Front brake hoses & oil were changed and fluids topped off.
It drove well - just the AC failed (expected).
You can do your own inspection since you own it.
It sounds like your Delta can make it too - you should know the car more than I knew mine when I picked it up, so you will be the judge.
Yours may have less than Lady's 150K miles and may be in better condition than mine... You might also have someone following along with you in case of trouble - I did not. (That was a bit scary at night along an isolated Georgia farm road.........)
Take a toolbox, a cooler of water, chassis manual and a cell phone. Good to have them, even if you do not need them.
Me personally, would take the adventure and drive it.
When I bought my '72, it was in very good shape to drive and the seller and I split the cost of having a mechanic go through it well and get it ready for the 1900 mile journey. Front brake hoses & oil were changed and fluids topped off.
It drove well - just the AC failed (expected).
You can do your own inspection since you own it.
It sounds like your Delta can make it too - you should know the car more than I knew mine when I picked it up, so you will be the judge.
Yours may have less than Lady's 150K miles and may be in better condition than mine... You might also have someone following along with you in case of trouble - I did not. (That was a bit scary at night along an isolated Georgia farm road.........)
Take a toolbox, a cooler of water, chassis manual and a cell phone. Good to have them, even if you do not need them.
Me personally, would take the adventure and drive it.
#5
The "rule" is that whatever you're towing should weigh no more than 80% of the weight of the vehicle doing the towing, and that includes the tongue weight. The CC actually outweighed my truck, so that idea was out, and the Titan weighed about the same as the CC, so U-haul wouldn't let us do that, either. With each phone call I made, and I called other truck/tow equipment rental places besides U-haul, the idea of having a transport service do it looked better and better.
Your '69 Delta weighs about 4,100 lbs. I would think a full-size pickup could tow it, but it might get tiring over the course of 2,000 miles. Take your time, and don't go too fast. You might also have to be careful about whatever else you load up the tow vehicle with. Don't want to overload it.
Last edited by jaunty75; July 16th, 2010 at 06:39 AM.
#6
The car can't be over 78 inches wide, 4300 pound limit, and it has to have a locking steering column according to Penske.
I've heard of fenders and rockers being smashed even with normal sized cars on those things.
You have to take very wide turns and you can't maneuver much, have to take the car off to back up.
Have you gotten any transporter estimates and figured the difference in cost??
Peace of mind and not having to drive 2000 miles with my butt clenched would be worth at least a grand to me.
I've heard of fenders and rockers being smashed even with normal sized cars on those things.
You have to take very wide turns and you can't maneuver much, have to take the car off to back up.
Have you gotten any transporter estimates and figured the difference in cost??
Peace of mind and not having to drive 2000 miles with my butt clenched would be worth at least a grand to me.
#7
#8
#9
#10
First choice drive it there
second choice on a trailer behind a truck big enough to handle it
third choice have it transported
Never, ever use a dolly
Good luck
I brought my 48 home to Washington from Oklahoma behind a U-haul one ton box van on a trailer no problem at all
second choice on a trailer behind a truck big enough to handle it
third choice have it transported
Never, ever use a dolly
Good luck
I brought my 48 home to Washington from Oklahoma behind a U-haul one ton box van on a trailer no problem at all
#12
if your talking about a dolly where only 2 wheels are up dont do it!!!! i rented 1 from uhaul a few years back 2 tow a salvage mustang 2 the shop, i had 2 keep pulling over the car was all over the road!! use a car trailer or have it transported!! if you use the dolly make sure you car is fully insured collector/classic car and i dont mean uhauls insurance! there insurance will give you the run around
#13
And make sure the insurance company knows you're going to tow it. They'll likely tell you it's not covered in a situation like this, which will be another reason not to do it yourself.
#14
Towing
This thread just triggered the memory of in 1974 when I was a Sr. in high school I had my 66 Fairlane XL towed about a 100 miles ( open flat, 2 lane farm land). I took 2 pieces of angle iron cut the legs off the front and drilled a hole through the 2 pieces at the "hitch end" then drilled 2 holes in the other ends, pulled out 2 of the bottom bumper bolts and bolted that sucker to the bottom of the bumper. I ran a bolt and double nutted it and replaced the ball of the trailer hitch on my buddies 66 Impala, he drove the Impala and I steered and braked the Fairlane. Made it in one piece, I was to dumb (or fearless)and young to realize how stooopid that was.I was kinda proud of that home made tow bar,bent and twisted as it was. My dad could not believe it when I pulled up to the house, he just shook his head and muttered that no way did I came from his loins
#16
I wouldn't use a dolly and I am a huge risk taker I would drive it first, have it professionally transported second, or put it on a trailer third. When me and my dad towed my 84 Cutlass shell from South Carolina to Ohio, that was getting kinda scary at times if you didn't keep the truck perfectly straight. You could see the trailer swaying back and forth if you moved the wheel wrong. But of course we were doing anywhere from 70-90 mph when the max speed on the trailer was 55 mph
I couldn't imagine trying to tow that huge boat on a trailer that far, but I am sure it's doable.
If the car is in tip top condition with all suspension components and tune up items on the engine in good shape, I would drive it. I would bring some spare parts and tools with me. I would think all you would need is a thermostat, belts, spark plugs, wires, distributor parts depending on if you have points or hei, coolant, oil, and of course duct tape. As long as you inspect everything else, nothing else should not break if it is in good shape.
I couldn't imagine trying to tow that huge boat on a trailer that far, but I am sure it's doable.
If the car is in tip top condition with all suspension components and tune up items on the engine in good shape, I would drive it. I would bring some spare parts and tools with me. I would think all you would need is a thermostat, belts, spark plugs, wires, distributor parts depending on if you have points or hei, coolant, oil, and of course duct tape. As long as you inspect everything else, nothing else should not break if it is in good shape.
#17
Pull the bumper, bolt up a tow bar, & go slow.
http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/n...846196619.html
http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/n...846196619.html
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