My next Cutlass (part 2)
June 21st, 2014, 08:23 PM
#1
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 76
My next Cutlass (part 2)
Hello,
I posted in the newbie forum to begin this message but the long and short is I am picking up a yellow hard top '72 cutlass supreme that with a his/hers shifter that is a one owner car that has been sitting under a cover in a barn for the last 10 years. My plan is to rent a flat bed and go get it with a friend and bring it up to PA where I live. My first question is is this a bad idea and do they rent flat beds with a winch at Uhaul or do I need to hire a professional tow truck? I obviously have no intention of trying to start the car. Any experience here would be greatly appreciated.
Next thought I have is what to do with it in terms of mechanical? I live reasonably close to Thorntonhttp://www.thorntonclassics.com/ so I could go there. His stuff simply leaves me in disbelief of how perfect it is if you have never seen it, and I am sure he charges accordingly. I have a local garage that I have been going to for 25 years and they will totally be up for it as well and way cheaper. I can order all of the parts to them.
I expect the car to be pretty solid body wise (it was when it went in the barn) and aside from replacing the tires and changing the plugs, wires, battery and all of the fluids along with painting the block and manifold and a good detailing, and maybe shocks and springs depending, I am hoping that is all it really needs mechanically.
I realize its a little bit of a hard question without some more specifics, but I am going to take this process slowly and don't expect it to be road ready until the end of the summer. I am just looking for thoughts and I ideas and am trying to get organized as to how to go about this. To me, that's part of the fun. I intend to post progress along the way with pics.
Thanks
I posted in the newbie forum to begin this message but the long and short is I am picking up a yellow hard top '72 cutlass supreme that with a his/hers shifter that is a one owner car that has been sitting under a cover in a barn for the last 10 years. My plan is to rent a flat bed and go get it with a friend and bring it up to PA where I live. My first question is is this a bad idea and do they rent flat beds with a winch at Uhaul or do I need to hire a professional tow truck? I obviously have no intention of trying to start the car. Any experience here would be greatly appreciated.
Next thought I have is what to do with it in terms of mechanical? I live reasonably close to Thorntonhttp://www.thorntonclassics.com/ so I could go there. His stuff simply leaves me in disbelief of how perfect it is if you have never seen it, and I am sure he charges accordingly. I have a local garage that I have been going to for 25 years and they will totally be up for it as well and way cheaper. I can order all of the parts to them.
I expect the car to be pretty solid body wise (it was when it went in the barn) and aside from replacing the tires and changing the plugs, wires, battery and all of the fluids along with painting the block and manifold and a good detailing, and maybe shocks and springs depending, I am hoping that is all it really needs mechanically.
I realize its a little bit of a hard question without some more specifics, but I am going to take this process slowly and don't expect it to be road ready until the end of the summer. I am just looking for thoughts and I ideas and am trying to get organized as to how to go about this. To me, that's part of the fun. I intend to post progress along the way with pics.
Thanks
Last edited by toomanyhobbies; June 21st, 2014 at 08:28 PM.
June 21st, 2014, 08:46 PM
#2
same but different
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Central Missouri
Posts: 2,865
Hey that sounds like a pretty exciting project.
I didn't get just how far you need to go to get it. If its a 100 miles or so (short distance) a flat bed tow truck is a good idea. If its a lot farther, maybe some way else.
Buying cars long distance can be nerve wracking. Try to set your expectations accordingly.
I didn't get just how far you need to go to get it. If its a 100 miles or so (short distance) a flat bed tow truck is a good idea. If its a lot farther, maybe some way else.
Buying cars long distance can be nerve wracking. Try to set your expectations accordingly.
June 21st, 2014, 08:56 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 76
Hey that sounds like a pretty exciting project.
I didn't get just how far you need to go to get it. If its a 100 miles or so (short distance) a flat bed tow truck is a good idea. If its a lot farther, maybe some way else.
Buying cars long distance can be nerve wracking. Try to set your expectations accordingly.
I didn't get just how far you need to go to get it. If its a 100 miles or so (short distance) a flat bed tow truck is a good idea. If its a lot farther, maybe some way else.
Buying cars long distance can be nerve wracking. Try to set your expectations accordingly.
June 21st, 2014, 11:19 PM
#5
If you post some pictures people will better give you a clue what maybe needs doing. Anything sitting for 10 years may have created issues that were not there when it went in. Cars don't like suddenly not to be used.
July 14th, 2014, 06:48 PM
#6
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 76
So I picked up the car today. Here are some pics. It was rougher than I anticipated, especially under the hood, but I underestimated what 12 years in a barn would do, even though it was covered. I left it at the local garage I trust and they are going to begin to work on it in the next week or so. Here are the pics...
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The odometer read 0643 so it's 106K original miles. I have my work cut out for me though. More to follow.
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The odometer read 0643 so it's 106K original miles. I have my work cut out for me though. More to follow.
July 17th, 2014, 08:54 AM
#12
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,284
Looks like a fun project to me also. Take your time and enjoy!
I will say this, if the car has been sitting in that barn for 10 years, check and then recheck everything made of rubber. Dry-rotted brake lines are no fun at 60mph.
I will say this, if the car has been sitting in that barn for 10 years, check and then recheck everything made of rubber. Dry-rotted brake lines are no fun at 60mph.
July 17th, 2014, 07:51 PM
#13
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 76
In about 25 minutes today I got the interior to clean up really nicely and it is in great shape. I am thinking that I am not going to bother to get it drivable but just go ahead and take the drivetrain out right off the bat. I can have the body shop guys come out to see it to give estimates. I want it done right so I want the engine bay detailed and painted and i am planning to do a total rebuild with significant upgrades while maintaining stock appearance (except for headers).
Lots of homework left to do, but I feel good about it and everyone has said it is good bones to work with and entirely complete original which is what draws me in.
Lots of homework left to do, but I feel good about it and everyone has said it is good bones to work with and entirely complete original which is what draws me in.
July 18th, 2014, 05:17 AM
#18
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Harrison, Michigan
Posts: 4,740
You weren't kidding when you said its been sitting for 10 years! Apparently untouched except by critters.. Hopefully no rodent damage. Seems like a super cheap price. Good luck. It will be fun. Beware though, a lot of cars get blown apart for restoration and interest is lost and the car never goes back together.
July 22nd, 2014, 01:13 PM
#21
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Posts: 76
As far as rust, I have not been completely under the car but as far as I can tell there is no rust on the frame nor on the quarters. The car was basically garaged its entire life and has not seen a winter since the 1970's.
On price, my best friend's mom wanted me to have the car because she knew I would take care of it and and because I have no intention of molesting an all-original one owner car. It was emotional for her to part with the car. Part of it was also that she lost the title and did not want to deal with her ex-husband to get a replacement title (as it was last titled in his name) and she knew I would have no problem doing so, so I think that was worth something to her.
The funny thing is that it seems that even if I got the car for free I think I would lose money restoring it. I am not in it to make money but I am feeling that it is going to be a $10K project on the work alone.
I am working on a spec on the work I am going to do and a parts list and when it is closer to complete I will post for comment. Compared to most here, I know very little about motors and will be looking for lots of input and feedback as it comes together.
I am talking to people about doing the work and shopping around. Thursday I am meeting with the local garage where the car is now to go over the project. I am going to polish the chrome while I am there and will take more pics. Little bit at a time, right..?
On price, my best friend's mom wanted me to have the car because she knew I would take care of it and and because I have no intention of molesting an all-original one owner car. It was emotional for her to part with the car. Part of it was also that she lost the title and did not want to deal with her ex-husband to get a replacement title (as it was last titled in his name) and she knew I would have no problem doing so, so I think that was worth something to her.
The funny thing is that it seems that even if I got the car for free I think I would lose money restoring it. I am not in it to make money but I am feeling that it is going to be a $10K project on the work alone.
I am working on a spec on the work I am going to do and a parts list and when it is closer to complete I will post for comment. Compared to most here, I know very little about motors and will be looking for lots of input and feedback as it comes together.
I am talking to people about doing the work and shopping around. Thursday I am meeting with the local garage where the car is now to go over the project. I am going to polish the chrome while I am there and will take more pics. Little bit at a time, right..?
July 22nd, 2014, 06:02 PM
#22
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 2,663
As far as rust, I have not been completely under the car but as far as I can tell there is no rust on the frame nor on the quarters. The car was basically garaged its entire life and has not seen a winter since the 1970's.
On price, my best friend's mom wanted me to have the car because she knew I would take care of it and and because I have no intention of molesting an all-original one owner car. It was emotional for her to part with the car. Part of it was also that she lost the title and did not want to deal with her ex-husband to get a replacement title (as it was last titled in his name) and she knew I would have no problem doing so, so I think that was worth something to her.
The funny thing is that it seems that even if I got the car for free I think I would lose money restoring it. I am not in it to make money but I am feeling that it is going to be a $10K project on the work alone.
I am working on a spec on the work I am going to do and a parts list and when it is closer to complete I will post for comment. Compared to most here, I know very little about motors and will be looking for lots of input and feedback as it comes together.
I am talking to people about doing the work and shopping around. Thursday I am meeting with the local garage where the car is now to go over the project. I am going to polish the chrome while I am there and will take more pics. Little bit at a time, right..?
On price, my best friend's mom wanted me to have the car because she knew I would take care of it and and because I have no intention of molesting an all-original one owner car. It was emotional for her to part with the car. Part of it was also that she lost the title and did not want to deal with her ex-husband to get a replacement title (as it was last titled in his name) and she knew I would have no problem doing so, so I think that was worth something to her.
The funny thing is that it seems that even if I got the car for free I think I would lose money restoring it. I am not in it to make money but I am feeling that it is going to be a $10K project on the work alone.
I am working on a spec on the work I am going to do and a parts list and when it is closer to complete I will post for comment. Compared to most here, I know very little about motors and will be looking for lots of input and feedback as it comes together.
I am talking to people about doing the work and shopping around. Thursday I am meeting with the local garage where the car is now to go over the project. I am going to polish the chrome while I am there and will take more pics. Little bit at a time, right..?
July 22nd, 2014, 08:23 PM
#23
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 76
dc2x4drvr,
This was my initial plan, but I am leaning against it for the following reasons:
1. I don't have any desire to drive the car the way it appears now, and it will cause a headache with my wife given its current appearance if I were to bring it home.
2. I don't have any particular time frame, so if it is in the shop for a year, that is ok with me.
3. I feel like there is some amount of money that will be spent to put it on the road that will be essentially wasted when I take the motor apart and rebuild it.
On your last point, I do intend to rely heavily on the members here to help me plan the project and select the right parts. More on that will be following once I have my scope finished.
I have a client who has about 30 cars and he is heavily into GM muscle cars. He has a mechanic who works for him at a facility that he owns and has offered to me to put the car in his shop with his mechanic who would work on it at an hourly rate with me supplying parts when he has spare time. This kind of arrangement is intriguing to me. I obviously need to meet him and vet him a bit, but I am told he excels at body work and paint, so possibly I do the motor rebuild in one spot, have him do the body work and suspension and send the trans out. The possibilities are endless and that's part of the fun. I do feel like if I do my homework and plan properly I can get something done right that will save me a whole lot of money over a "retail" restoration.
PS - I did call Thornton who is nearby and they quoted me $80K (take that in for a moment) over the phone.
This was my initial plan, but I am leaning against it for the following reasons:
1. I don't have any desire to drive the car the way it appears now, and it will cause a headache with my wife given its current appearance if I were to bring it home.
2. I don't have any particular time frame, so if it is in the shop for a year, that is ok with me.
3. I feel like there is some amount of money that will be spent to put it on the road that will be essentially wasted when I take the motor apart and rebuild it.
On your last point, I do intend to rely heavily on the members here to help me plan the project and select the right parts. More on that will be following once I have my scope finished.
I have a client who has about 30 cars and he is heavily into GM muscle cars. He has a mechanic who works for him at a facility that he owns and has offered to me to put the car in his shop with his mechanic who would work on it at an hourly rate with me supplying parts when he has spare time. This kind of arrangement is intriguing to me. I obviously need to meet him and vet him a bit, but I am told he excels at body work and paint, so possibly I do the motor rebuild in one spot, have him do the body work and suspension and send the trans out. The possibilities are endless and that's part of the fun. I do feel like if I do my homework and plan properly I can get something done right that will save me a whole lot of money over a "retail" restoration.
PS - I did call Thornton who is nearby and they quoted me $80K (take that in for a moment) over the phone.
July 24th, 2014, 09:29 AM
#25
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 76
Went over today to clean out the trunk and polish the rear bumper.
The rag in this pic on the left is because it rained hard last night and there is a pool of water in the fender well.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
I haven't opened the 3 GM parts boxes in the trunk yet, but one is a new NOS trunk mat.
The interior has come up really nice. Once more around and it will look like new.
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[/IMG]
Both rear quarters look like this inside the trunk. Opinions on whether or not they can be saved are appreciated.
IMG_0419.jpg
IMG_0420.jpg
Note the wet on trunk floor
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Bumpers will look great. Definitely not having them redone as they provide a nice original look.
No rust on frame. Everything looks good underneath. Going to post a proposed game plan soon.
The rag in this pic on the left is because it rained hard last night and there is a pool of water in the fender well.
[IMG]
[/IMG]I haven't opened the 3 GM parts boxes in the trunk yet, but one is a new NOS trunk mat.
The interior has come up really nice. Once more around and it will look like new.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Both rear quarters look like this inside the trunk. Opinions on whether or not they can be saved are appreciated.
IMG_0419.jpg
IMG_0420.jpg
Note the wet on trunk floor
[IMG]
[/IMG]Bumpers will look great. Definitely not having them redone as they provide a nice original look.
No rust on frame. Everything looks good underneath. Going to post a proposed game plan soon.
Last edited by toomanyhobbies; July 24th, 2014 at 09:35 AM.
July 24th, 2014, 08:06 PM
#27
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 76
I don't believe it has cruse, and it does not have power windows. I really wish it has a tilt wheel to be honest since I am 6'4". If you tell me how to provide a direct link I will do it.
July 24th, 2014, 08:08 PM
#28
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I met with an engine builder today who I liked a lot and went to see a body guy who I have a little prior experience with. Something told me to go back to him, and when I saw his project '70 cutlass S out front and the 442 model on his desk, I felt like I had maybe found the right place. Getting closer to making some decisions.
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