Mak

Hoping someone can school me on resealing the Elelbrock performer intake manifold on my 67 425. It's leaking coolant from the front corner, so I need to pull it and replace the gaskets. I'm wondering: Do I need to get Edelbrock gaskets? or just a stock gasket set?; Are the torque specs the same as the stock intake?; Anything special I need to do compared to resealing a stock intake?

The car runs great now, so I want to try and get it off & back on without changing anything, so I'm planning on just marking the distributor any dropping it back in the exact same place. Any tips would be appreciated?

Also, does anyone know if the orange/red paint my engine is painted is readily available anywhere? All I'm finding at the car parts stores in Chevy orange or darker reds.

Thanks!

joe_padavano

The first thing to do is to pull the intake and use a straightedge to verify that the gasket surfaces are flat.

I use the factory turkey tray intake gasket, even with aftermarket aluminum intakes, and have had no leakage problems in over four decades of building Oldsmobiles. You MUST put a bead of RTV around each of the four water ports on the gasket, on both sides of the gasket. You must also ensure that the four locating bosses at the corner bolt holes are properly mated to the recesses in the heads. Torque values and pattern are the same as for any factory intake. Be sure the bolts are clean and lubed with engine oil before torquing. Also be sure the threads in the heads are clean. Chase them with a bottoming tap and use a shop vac to get all debris out if necessary.

Mak

Thanks Joe! I appreciate the advise. I'm hoping that when the previous owner installed the intake he just did a poor job of sealing the water jacket. I guess I be able to tell better once I get it apart. Thanks again.

oldcutlass

Is it leaking from the gasket or wicking up the bolts. Have you tried retorqing the bolts to see if the leak stops?

Mak

It's leaking from the gasket, right in the corner of the valley. I Haven't tried retorqing it yet, but the leak is pretty bad... I don't think I'd trust it without resealing it. The cars down for a few weeks while my rear bumper gets straightened & rechromed anyway. I just replaced the water pump... I'm hoping to reseal the intake, send the radiator out for repair (just starting to seep at the seams) and replace the fuel tank sending unit before the bumper is ready to go back on.

oldcutlass

I was just wondering? Hope you get it back together soon for summer.

Mak

Okay, so RTV around both sides of the water ports. (only?)

How about the rubber end gaskets? Do you recommend using them... or just a bead of RTV and a blob in the corners? I can't say for sure (cuz it's not apart yet)... but it looks like it was previously installed with no end gaskets (just RTV.)

joe_padavano

Yes. I usually let the RTV skin over so it acts more like an o-ring, but this isn't critical.

I've had little luck getting the rubber end gaskets to stay put, so I just use RTV now. Again, build up the bead and let it skin over before putting the intake on.

72 w29 all green

I use this on the end rails instead of the rubber gaskets with EXCELLENT results, i.e. no leaks.

08825588-70d4-4760-ac45-036b7564099b.jpg

dc2x4drvr

Yes, use RTV on the end rails, build it up with several passes, I like RTV around the water outlets.

oldcutlass

While I've always used the rubber end seals with no problems, I've seen people who have not been so lucky. Either way will work, however as Joe stated make sure the bosses are lined up and the gasket is seated.

Mak

Good to know... I've seen that stuff, but never tried it. I'll pick some up and give it a try on the rails... and RTV on the water ports. Thanks for the info!