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70 442 Blue interior question???

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Old January 5th, 2010, 06:22 PM
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70 442 Blue interior question???

What paint should i use to restore a 70 442 blue console?
It is that light blue colour. I can't find a close match.

I was able to find a pretty good match for the dark blue interior parts.

Any ideas?



Thanks in advance

Cheers,

Sam
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Old January 5th, 2010, 07:13 PM
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70 442 Blue interior question???

It's expensive but you can have your local auto paint supplier match your color and mix up some vinyl dye. Unfortunately, most won't guarantee a perfect match. So at $45 for a half a pint, it can be an expensive roll of the dice.
They can also put it in a spray can if you don't have a gun and compressor. Haven't done that. Not sure if that's even more $ or not.

SEM does have a nice line of spray can dye out now but matching that blue may be tough. Check with your local auto paint supplier or check SEM's web site to see their paint charts. These cans, if you can find the right color, are only $11 a can. I've used this product and was very impressed.

I'm sure it'll be with in a shade or two of your original. If you really take a good close look at your car, you'll see that many panels are/were different shades from the factory since they came from different suppliers and were made of different materials. So slightly different shades is actually more realistic.
Have you ever seen a car that has just had the entire interior redone all with the same dye? It looks awful.
Normally, when you paint something, you want it to all be even and the same color but not when it comes to interior pieces/panels.
Fortunately, changing your spray distance, using heavier or lighter coats and if you're using a compressor and spray gun, adjusting your pressure and paint mixture all can affect how the finished product appears sheen and color wise.
So if you are doing your whole interior and you want it to look factory, plan ahead and dye pieces in pairs like left and right kick panels and sails panels. Then change up your setting a bit and do the console. Then change it up again and do the dash etc. Of coarse, always test on a piece of scrap before you do a real piece each time you change it up.
If you look closely at the lower metal part of your dash, you'll see that the paint actually has a texture to it. Tiny clumps of paint all over the dash. This texture is created by misadjusting the spray gun. First, set the gun normally and apply a cover coat or two. Let that tack up(dry a little) a few minutes and adjust the spray gun for less pressure and more paint. This will cause the gun to sputter throwing little globs of paint out. You also need to hold the gun back about 1 1/2 feet or so so that the globs have a chance to dry a little before they hit the surface. Again, practice on a test piece to get the pattern you're looking for.
It's a little tricky but this pattern can also be duplicated with a spray can. Take a wire bread twist tye(any very thin wire) and remove the plastic or paper from the twist tie wire. Now the tricky part, you need to secure the wire onto the spray nozzle such that it loops in the path of the paint about 1/4" from the nozzle. The paint will accumulate on the wire but then be blow onto the piece as you spray. Again, let your first normal cover coat dry a bit before applying the texture holding the spray can back further than normal.

Last edited by W70442; January 5th, 2010 at 07:16 PM.
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Old January 5th, 2010, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by W70442
It's expensive but you can have your local auto paint supplier match your color and mix up some vinyl dye. Unfortunately, most won't guarantee a perfect match. So at $45 for a half a pint, it can be an expensive roll of the dice.
They can also put it in a spray can if you don't have a gun and compressor. Haven't done that. Not sure if that's even more $ or not.

SEM does have a nice line of spray can dye out now but matching that blue may be tough. Check with your local auto paint supplier or check SEM's web site to see their paint charts. These cans, if you can find the right color, are only $11 a can. I've used this product and was very impressed.

I'm sure it'll be with in a shade or two of your original. If you really take a good close look at your car, you'll see that many panels are/were different shades from the factory since they came from different suppliers and were made of different materials. So slightly different shades is actually more realistic.
Have you ever seen a car that has just had the entire interior redone all with the same dye? It looks awful.
Normally, when you paint something, you want it to all be even and the same color but not when it comes to interior pieces/panels.
Fortunately, changing your spray distance, using heavier or lighter coats and if you're using a compressor and spray gun, adjusting your pressure and paint mixture all can affect how the finished product appears sheen and color wise.
So if you are doing your whole interior and you want it to look factory, plan ahead and dye pieces in pairs like left and right kick panels and sails panels. Then change up your setting a bit and do the console. Then change it up again and do the dash etc. Of coarse, always test on a piece of scrap before you do a real piece each time you change it up.
If you look closely at the lower metal part of your dash, you'll see that the paint actually has a texture to it. Tiny clumps of paint all over the dash. This texture is created by misadjusting the spray gun. First, set the gun normally and apply a cover coat or two. Let that tack up(dry a little) a few minutes and adjust the spray gun for less pressure and more paint. This will cause the gun to sputter throwing little globs of paint out. You also need to hold the gun back about 1 1/2 feet or so so that the globs have a chance to dry a little before they hit the surface. Again, practice on a test piece to get the pattern you're looking for.
It's a little tricky but this pattern can also be duplicated with a spray can. Take a wire bread twist tye(any very thin wire) and remove the plastic or paper from the twist tie wire. Now the tricky part, you need to secure the wire onto the spray nozzle such that it loops in the path of the paint about 1/4" from the nozzle. The paint will accumulate on the wire but then be blow onto the piece as you spray. Again, let your first normal cover coat dry a bit before applying the texture holding the spray can back further than normal.
Just like my exterior paint is enamel with no clear and just a taste of orange peel ...
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