Fun71

I recently realized that my trunk/glove box key does not work with the console lock. I suppose I knew this 20+ years ago and simply didn't really care.
Well now I had some time and thought I would remove the bezel and swap the tumbler pins to match the key, but I have not been able to remove the bezel from the lock cylinder. Does anyone have tips or suggestions on how to remove the bezel?

joe_padavano

Are you talking about removing the lock assembly from the console, or the lock cylinder from the housing? The latter requires the key to turn the cylinder far enough to disengage the retainer tabs. Without it there is some finesse required with tools to depress tumblers.

Fun71

I have the lock removed from the console. I thought the next step was removing the bezel in order to release the cylinder. Maybe this isn’t the right process?

joe_padavano

Unfortunately not. The lock cylinder is retained in the housing through a tab cast integrally with the housing that engages a circumferential groove on the outside of the lock cylinder. You need a key or other means of holding the tumblers in the correct orientation, then you have to hold the spring-loaded hook all the way out while turning the lock cylinder as far CW as it can go. This is actually 90 deg past where it normally stops. That disengages the tab from the groove and allows you to pull the lock cylinder outward. The bezel doesn't need to come off and has no effect on releasing the lock cylinder one way or the other. You can see the groove in this photo of the lock cylinder. In these photos of a virgin lock cylinder, the red arrow is the retainer groove. Note the clearance notch at 90 deg to the groove that allows the lock cylinder to be slid out past the tab in the housing. The green arrow is the tab on the inboard end of the cylinder that prevents the cylinder from turning to the release position until you pull back on the spring-loaded hook. Also note that brand new cylinders don't have replaceable tumblers. You insert the desired key into the new cylinder and file the tumblers down flush.

Fun71

Joe, thanks for the info and pictures. Seeing them brought back memories of removing the cylinder on my ‘70 Supreme.

So any ideas on how to remove the cylinder without the correct key?

Apparently this is why I didn’t do anything with it 35 years ago.

joe_padavano

On one I did recently, I actually had to make a key through trial and error to turn the lock cylinder. Once out, I was able to refile the tumblers to fit the new key. I'll suggest that removing the bezel might provide enough space to insert a piece of shim stock to hold the tumblers down. You can depress them one at a time in sequence with a probe or locksmith tool and then push the shim in to hold that one down while moving on to the next one. Note that this cylinder only uses five of the six tumblers that the door and trunk locks use. If that fails, you can find NOS cylinders on ebay, allowing you to drill the old one out enough to get the tumblers out and then turn the remaining shell. I prefer not to resort to that if possible. FYI, I have a tool that can re-roll the bezel if it's removed carefully.

Fun71

So back to trying to remove the bezel. I tried prying around the perimeter with a screwdriver bit that thing is tough.

Fun71

Joe, do you think it would be possible to identify the tumblers from a 3D CT x-ray image? Then cut a key from that information?

joe_padavano

I'll be really impressed if you tell me you have access to one.

Seriously, yeah, at a minimum it should show the tumbler differences, which will narrow down the possible number of key configurations to two or three. Pretty easy to cut test keys from that point.

Fun71

Actually two.
Yxlon FF35 and GE nanomex 180.

I’ll see if I can do some scans next week; it just depends upon how busy we are.