Testing Electrical Outside the Car

[TheRuss]

Hey Olds folks!

I'm somewhat new to fiddling with car electricals. I've got a non-working clock (Tic-Toc-Tach) in a 1972 Cutlass S. I've also got a 'donor' clock from which I can steal pieces. My question: Is there a way to power the clock OUTSIDE of the vehicle for testing purposes using a battery and some wires? It would be much nicer to test on a 'bench' rather than in the car.

I'll probably end up ordering a quartz kit...but I thought I would play with this a little first.

Any suggestions would be beautiful.

Thanks!

Russ

[Olds64]

You can test the clock by attaching 12V to the terminal on the back of the clock. I suggest you get the clock repaired professionaly. I am sure it is difficult to rebuild.

[joe_padavano]

Originally Posted by Olds64

You can test the clock by attaching 12V to the terminal on the back of the clock. I suggest you get the clock repaired professionaly. I am sure it is difficult to rebuild.

Ground wire to the case and +12V to the clock terminal. I would have the clock rebuilt with a quartz movement.

[TheRuss]

Thanks guys!

I will probably order a quartz kit when I take the clock out this weekend. I half-ordered one before, but then the company that I was looking at ordering from said their kits only worked with Borg manufactured clocks, and would not work on General Instruments. Thinking my Tic-Toc-Tach might be General Instruments, I held off on the order. The company was Instrument Services (http://clocksandgauges.com), which was recommended on this board.

Olds64: I took the clock apart before. The gears seemed to be working fine. But, we'll see once I take a longer look at it.

Joe: Sorry for the dummy question, but do they sell smallish 12V batteries that I can easily hook a wire to?

This board is one heck of a valuable resource. Thanks Oldsenites!

Russ

[Oldsguy]

The small batteries should work ok, doubt that the clock pulls that much current. I you can you might fuse the 12 volt wire for safety, just in case the clock is shorted inside, or you could test the 12 volt terminal to ground with a volt meter first if you have one and know how. Either way, just a safety item and not imperative.

[Olds64]

I took the clock apart before. The gears seemed to be working fine. But, we'll see once I take a longer look at it.

You took it apart but did you disassemble the gears and cogs of the clock? I would definitely go with caution on this one. Carburetors and automatic transmission valve bodies are delicate but the parts of a clock must be ABSURD!

[TheRuss]

Oh yeah...I didn't take EVERYTHING apart last time. Lots and lots of little parts that these sausage fingers would have problems with.

I took apart the clock a few months ago. I do remember some of the cogs sliding off, but I took pictures and made sure to make mental notes as I was taking it apart. At the end of it, the clock worked when I manually 'wound' it (pushed the little hammer that makes the gears move all the way to one side) and let it run. The hands ran (without electricity) for a little over a minute and then stopped when the little hammer thing (I have no idea what this is called) came to rest again on another piece of metal.

So, the clock seems to run okay, but doesn't wind itself. I'm hoping that cleaning the board/solder joints or replacing the movement with quartz might fix it...which would be super sweet. I'd be more interested in the Tach working...but one thing at a time.

Thanks for the input, Olds64. I'll definitely be careful, and let you know if I end up getting it working.

I wanted to say thank you to Oldsguy for the input as well! I have limited experience with a volt meter, but my brother can probably help me out with that to make some checks. I also got a Haynes or Chilton (I forget which one) manual that describes in details many things car-electric, including tools and diagnosis techniques. That should help me with the basics in using electricity related tools and measurements instead of trial and error only. Thanks!

Russ

[a6m5zerosen]

They used to sell 12 volt lantern size batteries at hardware stores=looks just like a 6 volt lantern battery, with the two little springs on the top. I used t carry one to the junkyard with two jumper wires to test anything I found that I thought I might use someday...

[TheRuss]

Thanks, a6m5zerosen.

That totally answers the question I was asking. I will get to the hardware store and see if they still have those things...I feel like one would come in handy now and again.

Rock on,

Russ

[Mister]

Just doing some window shopping on your behalf during my lunch break...

I see that Ace Hardware does sell 12-volt lantern batteries:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...ductId=1296186
Although I cannot say if they have one in stock in your area. Or even if they have Ace Hardware stores whereever you live.

For safety purposes, I would STRONGLY recommend getting a fuse for whatever you decide to do. It is very easy to touch two leads or two clips together and short out the circuit. In laboratory test equimpent, this automatically trips the power supply's circuit breaker, and no harm is done. There is no such circuit breaker on a lantern battery, and it is dangerous to short the leads together for any length of time.

Jameco sells a nice in-line fuse holder for less than a dollar:
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/sto...68&pa=102868PS

At the most, I would guess a clock takes maybe 2 watts. At 12 volts, that's

2w / 12v = 0.167 amps = 167 mA
So any fuse at about that current rating will be fine. Electronics places sell 1.25-inch fuses in that range, but if you're in a hardware store, the smallest-rating fuse they have is probably as close as you can get.

Just a disclaimer, I am approaching your question from an electronics perspective, and not an automotive one. I have not actually worked on clocks before.

Good luck. Let us know how things work out. I also have a dead clock, and am considering my options.

[TheRuss]

Mister,

Awesome! Looks like my local Radioshack has all of these materials in stock. I'll pick this stuff up and get to work. I'll definitely let you know if it's helpful, and if I'm able to get any results.

Thanks again for the leg-work!

Russ

[marcar1993]

I know for all my testing, I use a lionel (I own many toy trains and work on them) transformer with a bridge-rectifier. Turns ac into dc, and it pushes 12 volts at anywhere from 0-18 amps.

[J-(Chicago)]

Originally Posted by marcar1993

I know for all my testing, I use a lionel (I own many toy trains and work on them) transformer with a bridge-rectifier. Turns ac into dc, and it pushes 12 volts at anywhere from 0-18 amps.

I have some old Lionel track laying around in a box if you want it for shipping.
I am gonna scrap it otherwise. It's only enough to go around a Christmas tree.