How do I get to the neutral safety/backup light switch?
August 10th, 2012, 11:55 AM
#1
How do I get to the neutral safety/backup light switch?
I know its in the steering column but I'm not entirely sure how to take the column apart to get to it. My car is a 72 cutlass supreme. And by the way I was told when I bought it that it has an older Monty Carlo steering column in it.
August 10th, 2012, 01:17 PM
#4
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
As long as the column was from 69-72 it won't matter. Just follow Highwayman's advice and you will be good. It is a little awkward to access and you will likely need a stubby #2 phillips because of the space. If you need more space, you can drop the column a bit by taking off the trim cap and loosening the retaining nuts and bolts that hold the column bracket in place. There's a great pic of what you are looking for on page 9A-29 (Fig. 9A-45 - Neutral Start and Back-up Switch)
August 10th, 2012, 03:14 PM
#7
Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Medford, Oregon
Posts: 13,718
Since your column came out of a Monte Carlo we don't know if it had a console or not. I've got extra columns in the rafters of the garage so here's a couple pictures to show you where it is and what it looks like. If you don't have something like this on your column then it may have come out of a car with the switch on the console. Let us know if you still have any questions about locating it. John
P8100338.jpg
P8100339.jpg
P8100338.jpg
P8100339.jpg
August 10th, 2012, 04:10 PM
#8
Awesome guys I found it. Ok so The switch is deffinately the problem. I took the connector off and touched a wire to each side of it and the backup lights come on. So is there any way to adjust the switch? Thanks alot for the help.
August 10th, 2012, 06:03 PM
#9
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Just replace the switch is the standard thing to do. You can try cleaning the contacts and see if that makes a difference. If you do that, make sure you use electrical contact cleaner only (on the contacts and connector).
August 10th, 2012, 06:18 PM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 489
Yep. Just loosen the 2 screws that hold it on and slide it sideways. I seem to recall a small hole for a drill bit to line it up in the proper position. If you have to replace the switch, you'll need to adjust the new one so you just as well try adjusting it first.
August 10th, 2012, 06:19 PM
#11
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
November 3rd, 2012, 10:58 AM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Spokane Washington
Posts: 383
He's simply "jumpering" the contact points on the harness side creating a closed circuit (simulating the switch is made). This passes 12V to the back-ups. The test is made with a small jumper wire poked into the harness connector positions. The test would verify the circuit is good should the switch be functioning.
You need:
To know the two switch points to jump.
Is power present from the fuse and at the connector?
Are your backup lamps properly grounded?
The switch is only part of the circuit.
You need:
To know the two switch points to jump.
Is power present from the fuse and at the connector?
Are your backup lamps properly grounded?
The switch is only part of the circuit.
November 3rd, 2012, 10:59 AM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
OP:
you have a 72 Cutlass MT?
Did you verify that the backdrive linkage from trans to steering column is working right [at least in place]? I believe there is a rod connected to the Reverse Tab on the trans, which goes across to the frame thru an equalizer [like auto trans cars use] then up to the steering column tab such that when in reverse that steering column tab moves and causes the reverse lights to come on and possibly makes the steering column lock when the key is removed, which also locks the trans into reverse. I think the "Neutral" safety [purple] wiring on an MT car is supposed to go thru a switch [like a brake switch but actuated by the clutch pedal], so that Starter can only engage if clutch pedal is depressed. So went the '69 I converted to MT a while back.
Oh ps the MT type backup lites switch is NOT the same part as the AT type, for the above reasons. Therefore, since an MT MCarlo is unlikely, you may well have the AT type backup switch on that column.
That's easy. Place a jumper wire from the green to the other greenish wire which is in place on the switch on the steering column. That bypasses the switch and does what the switch would do- connect those wires. Ck the fuse? Verify that you have volts on one of those wires when you should [i.e., when the lights are on]? Check the wiring diagram for more detail, and trace accordingly. Start at the backup light sockets- you may simply have 2 BOBs [Burned Out Bulbs]...
you have a 72 Cutlass MT?
Did you verify that the backdrive linkage from trans to steering column is working right [at least in place]? I believe there is a rod connected to the Reverse Tab on the trans, which goes across to the frame thru an equalizer [like auto trans cars use] then up to the steering column tab such that when in reverse that steering column tab moves and causes the reverse lights to come on and possibly makes the steering column lock when the key is removed, which also locks the trans into reverse. I think the "Neutral" safety [purple] wiring on an MT car is supposed to go thru a switch [like a brake switch but actuated by the clutch pedal], so that Starter can only engage if clutch pedal is depressed. So went the '69 I converted to MT a while back.
Oh ps the MT type backup lites switch is NOT the same part as the AT type, for the above reasons. Therefore, since an MT MCarlo is unlikely, you may well have the AT type backup switch on that column.
That's easy. Place a jumper wire from the green to the other greenish wire which is in place on the switch on the steering column. That bypasses the switch and does what the switch would do- connect those wires. Ck the fuse? Verify that you have volts on one of those wires when you should [i.e., when the lights are on]? Check the wiring diagram for more detail, and trace accordingly. Start at the backup light sockets- you may simply have 2 BOBs [Burned Out Bulbs]...
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