rroth01

I have a problem.Last year I replaced all the wiring in my 66 Cutlass.Changed to a single wire alternator and recently restored and replaced my Instrument Panel.I had the changes made in my harness to accomodate the single wire as well.
I took my time making sure to follow and properly replace every wire and or wire connector in its original place.I have installed a brand new Standard Products ignition switch.Now the problem that I am experiencing is that even with the ignition switch in the OFF position I have power to all the accessories.Radio,Heater .They are all Hot.My fuel Gauge even has a mind of its own.One day it is at 1/4 of tank and then it is beyond full.
I have taken this IP out at least 8 times and am puzzled.I gave up drinking in January after 40 years .
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance
Ron Roth

MDchanic

This MUST be serious then .

I'd try disconnecting the plug from the ignition switch first.
If the problem goes away, then it's in the switch.
If it persists, then it's somewhere else.

If it's somewhere else, then keep a monitor on that ACC circuit (like maybe a buzzer), and keep disconnecting potential feeds (start with fuses) until it goes off.
At that point, reconnect everything except the last thing, to be sure it really WAS that, then follow that circuit to find out where the wires are crossed (use your Chassis Service Manual diagram).

You can do this, and SHOULD be able to do it with the dashboard IN.

- Eric

rroth01

I was thinking the same .I have been out of this hobby for many years.Amazing how much you forget.One would think a brand new switch would work.Looks like I am up under the dash after work.
Thanks for your help.

MDchanic

Okay,

First, I'll answer your questions.

• Yes, you can discount the problem being in the ignition switch (unless you've got TWO problems...).
• No, you can't discount the ignition switch connector (plug). Though it is not likely, it is always possible that a single wire hair could be crossing between the Hot (RED) and the ACC (BROWN) terminals and causing this problem. Not likely, but you can't discount it.
• Yes, the wire goes from the switch to the fuse box, where it feeds the ACC circuits.
• Yes, there could be an unwanted connection inside the fuse box, such as, once again a hair of wire crossing two circuits, but it is highly unlikely.
• Not sure what you mean by "looking at the ACC wire from the Ignition switch connector."
• No, the accessories do not get power from anywhere except for the ACC wire from the ignition switch.

Now, here's your schematic:



It's a bit hard to read because of the upload limit, but it should be enough to help, anyway.

You will observe that power enters the ignition switch through the RED wire at the BATT terminal, and feeds

• the BROWN wire through the ACC terminal, for the accessories,
• the PINK wire through the IGN terminal, for the coil, the transmission controls, and the "power on" gauges.
• the GREEN wire through an unlabeled terminal, for the "idiot light check," and
• the PURPLE wire through the SOL terminal, for the starter motor.

Just to review:

• When in the ACC position, the BATT terminal is connected to the ACC terminal
• When in the RUN position, the BATT terminal is connected to the ACC, the IGN, and the Green terminals (I believe...).
• When in the START position, the BATT terminal is connected to the IGN and the SOL terminals, to kill the accessories and the gauges while the engine is cranking.

Following the schematic, we can see that TWO wires come off the ACC terminal of the ignition switch.
One is BROWN and WHITE, and goes to the "Engine and Dash Connector," whence it goes forward to the L ("Light") terminal of the regulator, and backward to the Alt Warning Lamp in the dash.
The other is BROWN, and goes to the signal light flasher, and then to the fuse box, where it feeds RADIO, HEATER FAN, and WIPERS, each through its own fuse, and the POWER WINDOWS and ANTENNA (if installed), through a single fuse.

I trust that you have removed each of those fuses and proven to yourself that when the fuse was out, the accessory stopped working. If not, then I could be barking up the wrong tree.

That BROWN and WHITE wire to the regulator is the interesting one, though, since you wrote earlier that, "I replaced all the wiring in my 66 Cutlass. Changed to a single wire alternator," and "I had the changes made in my harness to accomodate the single wire as well."

I do not know what changes were made to your harness for the single-wire alternator, but I would bet dollars to doughnuts that when the changes were made, the BROWN and WHITE ACC wire (which used to go to the regulator) was inadvertently connected to the BATT terminal of the alternator, and is back-supplying full-time current from the alternator to the entire ACC circuit.

At the risk of temporarily losing your ALT light (which I would not be surprised to find didn't work anyway), you might want to try snipping the BROWN and WHITE wire that comes from the ACC terminal of the ignition switch, and see if that solves your problem. If it does, then you've got to hunt down the place where that wire is improperly connected inside your harness, and correct the problem.

Make sense ?

- Eric

rroth01

Makes a great deal of sense.
I think tomorrow I will remove the fuse panel and inspect the wiring .My opinion is that I have a runaway wire inside the panel or on the Ignition switch coupling.At least that is what I am hoping.I have taken the Panel off so many times for the instrument Panel and for getting the car painted that I have to believe I may have moved something around,and it jumping over .
From everyone on C/O and myself that visits this post.I thank you for your time and knowledge..
If this doesnt fix it...I am going to start drinking again.
Ron