Aceshigh

Hey gents,

Looking to install a Taurus cooling fan into my Olds with a SPAL PWM (Pulse width modulation) controller and sending unit, but first I need to upgrade my alternator. I have a spare Chevy CS130 140 amp and I presume the Rocket 350 engine has a 10DN.....not sure. But I have a 12 o'clock mount, and my CS130 is a 2 or 10'o clock (i forget) and won't work.

So I'm curious what alternator upgrade options would be recommended ??
I'm not the electrical or engine expert type.....but someone was asking if
i could just get a 12' o'clock mounting face for the spare CS130 I have.
I figured I'd ask what others have done first.
I'm looking for a 100amp plus setup here to run a nice stereo in it as well.

Not sure if there are different mounting brackets I can try out that people know of.
FYI - I'm not a purist. This will be a pro-touring setup as a family cruiser.
As you can see by my engine bay's appearance, it's not a show car.
I have alot of cleaning up to do still .
1970Olds442clone10.jpg

2blu442

Check out this link. It has pictures of a couple late 1970's alternator brackets. One came off a 1978 Toro that had a 100 amp alternator on it. John

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...s-pullies.html

joe_padavano

The CS130s with the 12:00/6:00 ears are very common - usually found on FWD Buick 3800 motors. At the local wrecking yard they go for $15 apiece. Be sure to snag the connector. Hookup is easy if you already have an SI-series alternator. The main red wire on the threaded terminal goes to the same threaded terminal on the CS130. The brown wire (terminal #1) from the old connector goes to the L terminal on the CS130. The red wire (terminal #2) on the old connector goes to the I terminal on the CS130. That's it.

A friend of mine did this swap on his 64 Grand Prix and is very pleased with it. You will need to swap the pulley, since the CS130s come with a serpentine pulley usually, but that's pretty easy. Also be sure to get a 105 amp version when you go to the yard.

Aceshigh

Yeah, I hope.....this is Chicago...nothing is $15...lol

But I didn't think of looking at the junkers....I might do that.
I just have a BRAND NEW one, but no idea how to swap the mounting portion.
I know it comes off, but I've never taken an alternator apart and I know if you
don't bolt it on correctly , say.....too tight....the brushes get jammed up.

As for wiring it in, I have a road map for that.
Mine is externally regulated, and I have the diagram on how to connect it.



I was hoping to find some kind of bracket like this that MIGHT work with the 10'o clock CS130 I have.
But I could be wrong.....I know about the pulley.

texasred

I did the CS-130 conversion on my 71 Cutlass over 4 years ago. The MAD conversion diagrams are for "other" GM cars and aren't exactly correct for us. There's a resistance wire we have to get around. Here's the real scoop....

You will want the CS-130 with the connector labeled “SFLP”, not “SILP”. You also need a capacitor from Radio Shack (278-1102) and a 168 bulb (higher resistance) to excite the alternator. It’s a brighter bulb, so replacing all your dash lights is a pretty good idea anyway.

Cut the voltage regulator plug off and cap the brown (4) wire. It runs into the dash wiring, but we won’t be using it. It has a resistance wire in it downstream that is incompatible with the alternator. The white wire (2) and blue (F) wire from the alternator to the regulator can be removed completely. The red wire (3) from the starter junction to the regulator can be capped or removed. Pull out your idiot light cluster and locate the solid brown wire. Cut the wire far enough back for you to splice a new one to the cluster. Run a 16 gauge wire from the gauge cluster through the firewall to the alternator. Put the diode inline. There’s a white stripe on the diode for polarity, but I honestly can’t remember which way it goes. If your idiot light doesn’t work, turn the diode around! Replace the GEN bulb with the 168.

Loosely mount the new alternator and grab your new connector. For an SI alternator, crimp your new idiot light wire to the white wire. Attach the red ringed wire to the BAT output post on the alternator. This will tell the regulator when to turn on and off.

You'll need to bore out the adjustment "slip mount" or use a nut/bolt. The metric bolt won't fit.

C.J.

Aceshigh

Texas Red

Can you let me know what CS130 you ordered??
I'm having trouble finding the correct 12 o'clock mounting one
because they go by application, not mounting alignments.

bcracing

Here is a list of 12 oclock dialed alt. These are all 140 amp alt. Did this alt swap on my 87 Monte SS, no problems with it keepin the battery charged with FI system, elec. fan, fuel pump digital ign., stereo, and full per acc.

CS144 Alternator - you can get these from any parts store if you ask for an alternator for any of the following:
(1994-96) Buick Roadmaster 5.7L
(1993-96) Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham (RWD) 5.7L
(1993-96) Chevrolet Caprice 4.3L, 5.7L
(1995-96) Chevrolet Impala 5.7L
(1992-95) Chevrolet Lumina APV Van 3.8L
(1992-95) Oldsmobile Silhouette 3.8L
(1992-95) Pontiac Trans Sport 3.8L
AC Delco part 10463338.
Picture - CS144 alternator:
AlternatorCS144V.jpg

texasred

A CS-144 may have worked in your Monte, but it does NOT have the same case size as earlier models. It is smaller, so you would have to fab up some brackets. The SI and CS are the same size as earlier Delco units so they are (relative) bolt-ins.

I bought mine from a rebuilder so the case was already clocked. It mounts so the electrical connector is at the bottom and the cooling inlet is at the top. Try a CS-130 105 amp alternator-1988 Caprice Classic wagon with the 307 engine

Here's a link to my photobucket page with a couple of diagrams showing the correct wiring/diode placement and an article on the swap I wrote for our newsletter. Sorry, no real pics of before/during/after.

http://s122.photobucket.com/albums/o...tx/alternator/

C.J.

joe_padavano

Methinks you are confused. The CS144 is SUBSTANTIALLY larger than the CS130 or the SI series alternators. I've got one on my 99 truck and on my Allante.

Aceshigh

I just did some googling and that's true.

http://tech.oldsgmail.com/echa_140a.php

and I found this write up on the Monte Carlo forums. http://www.montecarloss.com/communit...&Number=493219

Aceshigh

Okay.....I just got back from Autozone.
The bolt holes center to center measure the following......

10DN = 6 3/4" (Existing alternator)
10 and 12 SI = ?? I don't know yet
CS130 = 7"
CS144 = 7 1/4"

I can't use a CS130 with the stock brackets.
So I need to either find something that WILL work, or find out
what a 12SI bolt holes measurement will be.

bcracing

The 12SI must be the same as the CS144, as it was a direct bolt on. And the 12SI is stock on the Monte.

stellar

10DN 10SI 12SI are all the same center to center for most applications. there are a few, but not many 10 and 12 SI that are longer. There are a few CS130 units with the same center to center as the 10DN. CS144 is longer. Mark

stellar

10DN 10SI 12SI are all the same center to center for most applications. there are a few, but not many 10 and 12 SI that are longer. There are a few CS130 units with the same center to center as the 10DN. CS144 is longer. The 144 fits the 12SI if the adjustment bracket is on a pivot as opposed to a stationary mount. Mark

Aceshigh

It is definitely not the same size.
CS130 is 1/4" shorter then the CS144, so at best, if the 12SI is the same as the CS130 it's also shorter.

If it's the same as a 10DN , it's 1/2" shorter.
I was just at Autozone measuring all of them.
The only one NOT in stock was a 12SI to confirm.

stellar

Don't use the alt from a 3800 if you have stationary mounts because it will be too long.

texasred

Joe, you are right...had my glasses on backwards.

Aces, I have a 71 Cutlass Supreme, 350 with A/C, so my alternator brackets are the same as yours. The CS bolted right in. Remember that there is the adjustment groove on the lower bracket that will take up for any minor difference in size.

It was a while back, so I don't remember the other reasons that I didn't use a CS-144. I'm running A/C, twin elec fans, halogens, and sub amp myself. My philosophy is "build it stronger than it needs to be". I certainly know that I would have if I could have.

All I can say is what I did, how I did it, why a wiring mod needed, how to do it, and that it has worked flawlessly in a 1971 Cutlass A/C bracketed 350 Olds for over 4 years.

My mother and mother-in-law are in the hospital (broken hip and bad reaction to chemo) so I'll o the road a lot and not be in touch here too often. Any more questions, just email me through the control panel.

Good luck, y'all.

C.J.

stellar

Ace I hear you pulled the trigger. What did you decide?

Aceshigh

Are you on Nastyz28 too ??

I got this bad boy, I was impatient and I have had my SPAL PWM and Taurus fans sitting here for 3 weeks already waiting to go in.
So I just pulled the trigger and figured I'd make it work somehow. I have an alternator rebuild place down in Chicago I can
hit up if it ever goes on me.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

stellar

It should be a perfect fit

jturkey69

So have you gotten all of this done, and what part number Alt? wiring issues? I need to do this on my 71 non ac car as well this spring.

Aceshigh

Funny you asked that yesterday and I'm here today, I'm not on here too often.

Yes, I got it done shortly after ordering it.
The Ebay retailer I bought from can put this in the exact size casing you need.
He was AWESOME to deal with because he gives you an EXACT fit.
No guesswork here.

Wiring is simple. Just follow the diagram above.
My brown wire for the CS130 I spliced into the brown wire that goes to the back of the quad gauge.
It does make my quad gauge a little dimmer though and I'm not happy about that, so I'm going to pull
12V sensing from somewhere else most likely. THis is the EXACT wire that fed the external regulator
on the firewall though before......so I'm not sure why it's being such a PITA. I'm going to run a straight
wire from the Horn Relay to the back of the gauges to give them full 14V too, fused of course.

Here's the alternator installed
NewEngineChrome2.jpg
Here's the dimly lit quad gauge I don't like......so I'm putting LED's in there in the other thread I just posted with pics.
OldsGaugeLEDChanges3.jpg

jturkey69

Thanks bro!...the Cutlass should be done in a few weeks from the body shop, then I can finally start getting my hands on it! Thanks again, now im off to find and alt, and order my 4wdb kit.