70 cutlass jumpstarts but won’t turn over by itself.
#45
#49
battery pack no longer jumps the car. Just purchased a remanufactured starter and will try it and let you guys know
#50
got my dads truck in place and it jump started the vehicle where the pack wouldn’t. This was earlier when I needed to move into driveway. Last test of the starter was when I changed the positive cable. Starter turns over but then won’t crank the flywheel.
#53
#55
Sounds like either the starter or yes it “could” be battery. Can’t really test cranking amperage of battery without an ammeter though. You can take the battery to any auto store to validate under load amperage draw. Hope the starter works out.
#59
#60
starter keeps getting in a bind. Unsure from here. I put the battery on the charger, removed the flywheel inspection plate and watched starter engage while friend tried to start. Probably a current issue, will be warrantying my battery from Costco or replacing the alternator today.
#61
starter keeps getting in a bind. Unsure from here. I put the battery on the charger, removed the flywheel inspection plate and watched starter engage while friend tried to start. Probably a current issue, will be warrantying my battery from Costco or replacing the alternator today.
#62
Pursuant to last night's discussion w/ the added information you provided today; again, it is possible to read 12V+ on a battery with limited ability to provide CCA - which might be the case. If you're not delivering amperage, a chance the starter might appear to be binding or is it incapable of providing the amperage required? As you suggested, a possible current issue. What you need is information on the battery to perform a good diagnosis and know where you stand on troubleshooting moving forward. I don't know if Costco will load-test the battery for you? I suspect they should if they're going to honor a warranty. Personally, I'd stopped by an automotive parts/supply store on my way to Costco and ask them to load test the battery; then, depending on the outcome of the load-test, you'll have a better indication if it was current (amperage) related.
#63
so Costco has a 3 year warranty and I’ve spoken to several auto employees there and no they do not load test or even check the voltage on a battery you say is faulty. There’s no Help from them other than getting a free battery 2 and a half years In. I’ve had the battery on the tender all night. When the vehicle was running I hit the throttle from the Carb and watched the voltage on battery jump up to 13.5 V and rapidly decreased after letting off.
#65
so Costco has a 3 year warranty and I’ve spoken to several auto employees there and no they do not load test or even check the voltage on a battery you say is faulty. There’s no Help from them other than getting a free battery 2 and a half years In. I’ve had the battery on the tender all night. When the vehicle was running I hit the throttle from the Carb and watched the voltage on battery jump up to 13.5 V and rapidly decreased after letting off.
Voltage while Running 12.65
charging battery solved the issue after we replaced the starter and solenoid and installed the replacement positive cable to starter. Only current issue is the charging system. So the battery after sitting on the tender all night is still not charged fully and then turning the key easily cranked the motor over. To avoid future failure everyone agrees the alternator should be tested under load att AutoZone and then replace if necessary.
#66
#68
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#70
starter keeps getting in a bind. Unsure from here. I put the battery on the charger, removed the flywheel inspection plate and watched starter engage while friend tried to start. Probably a current issue, will be warrantying my battery from Costco or replacing the alternator today.
so Costco has a 3 year warranty and I’ve spoken to several auto employees there and no they do not load test or even check the voltage on a battery you say is faulty. There’s no Help from them other than getting a free battery 2 and a half years In. I’ve had the battery on the tender all night. When the vehicle was running I hit the throttle from the Carb and watched the voltage on battery jump up to 13.5 V and rapidly decreased after letting off.
If you change batteries, clean (with sand paper or green Scotch-Brite) the battery posts and inside of the cable ends until they are shiney silver. A battery tender (1 to 1.5 AMP) is a very low power charger. It MAINTAINS a full charge, but it can take many more hours to fully charge a partially depleted battery. A typical "Trickle charger is 2 AMPS. A typical battery charger is 4 AMP to 10 AMP charging rate.
#71
#72
They may not test the amperage, but they will load test it. As suggested above, take your battery there and tell them you need it tested.
#73
#76
#77
bench tested new alternator and got this results from AutoZone. Brand new out of box refurbished.
#79
You may be surprised that a new out of the box alternator failed, but I am not. AutoZone is one of the worst for low quality rebuilt alternators and starters. Been that way ever since I first heard of them in the 80s.
#80