Where to put jackstands for when changing differential fluid?
October 21st, 2013, 11:51 AM
#1
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Jackstands when changing differential fluid?
68 Cutlass Supreme 4 door. Need to change the differential fluid and seems easy enough to do. I am wondering what is the absolute safest way to raise the rear end for enough room? I currently have Hi-Jacker air shocks in the rear with 275/60r15 wheels so it sits pretty high as it is. Where would be a good spot to put the jackstands and jack? Also best way to raise it?
Last edited by yeahbuddy; October 22nd, 2013 at 06:28 PM.
October 21st, 2013, 12:03 PM
#6
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under the axle tubes close to the lower shock mounts, the further apart you space them the more stable the car will be. sometimes you cant get the stands to sit right beside the tires because the stand will hit somewhere.
October 21st, 2013, 12:05 PM
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October 21st, 2013, 01:37 PM
#14
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Okay got it. One more question and I'll stop bothering you guys. 
For a 12-bolt gasket, my local OReilys only carries a FelPro "O-Type" gasket in a 12 bolt. Is this the correct version needed for my pumpkin? What is the best brand/weight oil to replace it with. Thank you
IMG_20131021_083436_zps79bd6ee3.jpg
For a 12-bolt gasket, my local OReilys only carries a FelPro "O-Type" gasket in a 12 bolt. Is this the correct version needed for my pumpkin? What is the best brand/weight oil to replace it with. Thank you IMG_20131021_083436_zps79bd6ee3.jpg
October 22nd, 2013, 06:08 PM
#17
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Well, thanks again guys I was able to easily knock it out today in a couple hours. 
Didn't even have to jack up the car I was able to get under fine and there was a lot of clearance for my torque wrench to get the bolts at 25 ft lbs. Took the opportunity to do a quick prime and paint. Only needed around little under 2 liters of NAPA 80-90 SAE gear oil.
Didn't even have to jack up the car I was able to get under fine and there was a lot of clearance for my torque wrench to get the bolts at 25 ft lbs. Took the opportunity to do a quick prime and paint. Only needed around little under 2 liters of NAPA 80-90 SAE gear oil. Last edited by yeahbuddy; October 23rd, 2013 at 12:58 AM.
October 22nd, 2013, 06:37 PM
#18
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I've changed the oil in three differentials this week, so I'm sorry I missed this thread.
I would add that I much prefer jacking up the car (not the rear end) in order to do this.
Jack up from both sides of the frame (although one is usually enough), just ahead of the rear fenders. This will raise the car (frame, floor, gas tank), but not the wheels or the rear, thus giving you better access to the differential without squirming and straining.
As far as cleaning, yes BrāKleen is great for this. It really gets a lot of stuff out, and, yes, it's okay to spray around in there if you want to (I generally spray only the "floor" of the differential, to clear out any debris that may be resting on the bottom,and on the gasket surfaces. It softens old RTV pretty well, too).
Also, most, if not all modern vehicles with conventional rear ends have dispensed with gaskets and just use a smear of RTV to seal - put a film where the gasket would go (don't use the entire tube, like the PO of one of my cars appears to have done
), bolt it up, and leave it overnight before filling.
- Eric
I would add that I much prefer jacking up the car (not the rear end) in order to do this.
Jack up from both sides of the frame (although one is usually enough), just ahead of the rear fenders. This will raise the car (frame, floor, gas tank), but not the wheels or the rear, thus giving you better access to the differential without squirming and straining.
As far as cleaning, yes BrāKleen is great for this. It really gets a lot of stuff out, and, yes, it's okay to spray around in there if you want to (I generally spray only the "floor" of the differential, to clear out any debris that may be resting on the bottom,and on the gasket surfaces. It softens old RTV pretty well, too).
Also, most, if not all modern vehicles with conventional rear ends have dispensed with gaskets and just use a smear of RTV to seal - put a film where the gasket would go (don't use the entire tube, like the PO of one of my cars appears to have done
), bolt it up, and leave it overnight before filling.- Eric
October 22nd, 2013, 06:40 PM
#19
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Fill it to about 1/2 inch below the inspection plug. I usually put my index finger in the hole one digit and when you feel fluid its full.
Oh and by the way, now that you painted that cover all nice and neat...it's time to get the whole underside to look like that so it doesn't stick out.
Oh and by the way, now that you painted that cover all nice and neat...it's time to get the whole underside to look like that so it doesn't stick out.
Last edited by oldcutlass; October 22nd, 2013 at 06:43 PM.
October 22nd, 2013, 06:54 PM
#20
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I've changed the oil in three differentials this week, so I'm sorry I missed this thread.
I would add that I much prefer jacking up the car (not the rear end) in order to do this.
Jack up from both sides of the frame (although one is usually enough), just ahead of the rear fenders. This will raise the car (frame, floor, gas tank), but not the wheels or the rear, thus giving you better access to the differential without squirming and straining.
As far as cleaning, yes BrāKleen is great for this. It really gets a lot of stuff out, and, yes, it's okay to spray around in there if you want to (I generally spray only the "floor" of the differential, to clear out any debris that may be resting on the bottom,and on the gasket surfaces. It softens old RTV pretty well, too).
Also, most, if not all modern vehicles with conventional rear ends have dispensed with gaskets and just use a smear of RTV to seal - put a film where the gasket would go (don't use the entire tube, like the PO of one of my cars appears to have done), bolt it up, and leave it overnight before filling.
- Eric
I would add that I much prefer jacking up the car (not the rear end) in order to do this.
Jack up from both sides of the frame (although one is usually enough), just ahead of the rear fenders. This will raise the car (frame, floor, gas tank), but not the wheels or the rear, thus giving you better access to the differential without squirming and straining.
As far as cleaning, yes BrāKleen is great for this. It really gets a lot of stuff out, and, yes, it's okay to spray around in there if you want to (I generally spray only the "floor" of the differential, to clear out any debris that may be resting on the bottom,and on the gasket surfaces. It softens old RTV pretty well, too).
Also, most, if not all modern vehicles with conventional rear ends have dispensed with gaskets and just use a smear of RTV to seal - put a film where the gasket would go (don't use the entire tube, like the PO of one of my cars appears to have done
), bolt it up, and leave it overnight before filling.- Eric
October 22nd, 2013, 06:56 PM
#21
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Posts: 901
Fill it to about 1/2 inch below the inspection plug. I usually put my index finger in the hole one digit and when you feel fluid its full.
Oh and by the way, now that you painted that cover all nice and neat...it's time to get the whole underside to look like that so it doesn't stick out.
Oh and by the way, now that you painted that cover all nice and neat...it's time to get the whole underside to look like that so it doesn't stick out.
I thought I needed 2.5 liters but at the end of the 2nd bottle it started overspilling back out the plug hole. I let it drip out until it stopped then I capped it. Might be right at the end of the plug hole.
October 22nd, 2013, 07:00 PM
#22
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Yeah, the exact level is really unimportant. Within half an inch one way or another is fine.
I usually just fill it till it comes out, then cap it quickly.
Some people like to use a bit less, to reduce seepage and make it neater to check the level later on.
In my case, if I'm touching it at all, it's because I'm changing it - Unless I see a puddle under the rear, I'm not checking the oil.
- Eric
I usually just fill it till it comes out, then cap it quickly.
Some people like to use a bit less, to reduce seepage and make it neater to check the level later on.
In my case, if I'm touching it at all, it's because I'm changing it - Unless I see a puddle under the rear, I'm not checking the oil.
- Eric
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