65 Cutlass Rear End

Oldsproject · July 5th, 2007, 04:37 PM

Looking for advice on rear end selection/change. I have a "65" Cutlass with 3:08's (non-posi). The 425/exhaust combo I put in is eating up the tires and pavement. Can a rear end be converted from non-posi to posi? It's a 10 bolt.

2blu442 · July 6th, 2007, 08:02 AM

Yes, you can install a posi unit in a non-posi rear but I don't know the availability of the one that would fit your 1965 Cutlass rear end. If your not concerned about original numbers it might be easier to find a newer A-body posi rear end and swap the whole thing. I understand 64-72 will fit, the 68-72 are about an inch wider, but unless you've put big meats under the car I don't think this will be a problem. 71-72 uses the corporate 8.5 10 bolts and parts are readily available. Supercars unlimited in Portland sells new Eaton posi units, I think he has both the 68-70 and 71-72 styles available. So you've got lots of options. I've got several non-posi rear ends available for the 68-72 if you decide to get a newer housing. John

joe_padavano · July 6th, 2007, 08:34 AM

That axle should be a BOP 8.2". You can get parts here:

http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com...iac/index.html

Oldsproject · July 8th, 2007, 06:18 PM

Thanks Joe and 2blu442, before I dive in I want to be sure I'm not getting in too far over my head.... (well I already am I guess). First things first though.

I raised the rear of the car, removed the tires and hubs. Since allot of this is new to me, this might seem as stupid questions but please bear with me.

1. While I had the car up I noticed I could turn rather easily the rear wheels even though the car was in park and the drive shaft and yoke were not moving, is this normal (boith wheels turned, oposite directions of course)?

2. I also could feel a what seemed like the gears in the rear end engaging but kind of a clicking feeling which seems somewhat normal but something is bothering me about it. It wasn't a real noticable feeling but instead of coming from the center housing felt more towards the outside ends (both) of the axle housing which makes me think that perhaps there's pitted or worn bearings or something of the sort? I may just be a bit paranoid as I read something about "64" and "65" cutlass axle bearing problems. The crux of the article was to be sure to check them as they had a tendancy to go bad and could destroy your axle. However, I can't find where I read it and perhaps it was all just a dream. Am I paranoid or is there something to be concerned about?

3. How difficult is this job IF I tackle the rear end to at least inspect the axle, bearings, gears, etc? Are there any special tools or can the usual run of the mill set accomplish the task (i.e. I don't have any way to press or remove bearings, etc.)

4. Can the job be done with the rear under the car?

I'm ready willing and able if it makes sense and with a little help from my friends.

monzaz · September 4th, 2007, 09:43 AM

I can walk you through all of it and have helped may do so.

The axles can be checked in the car no problem. you just need a 9/16 socket with a extention and some muscle. remove all 4 bolts and then remove the retention plate and pull away...you should use a axle puller tool...BUT I know people just do not have these specialty tools laying around. SO, if you can get a pry bar behind the axle and brake cylinder and some other ideas like a 2x4. If you can get a couple of the backing plate bolts back on the flange with out the axle retaining plate that will give you a good sturdy place to pry against again. Then agian you may get super lucky and it will just pop out. If you car is driving and not been sitting to long it should pop out with little effort.

The diff rebuild would be alot ALOT easier out of the car.

Besides don't you want to clean the undernethof the car and paint up the control arms etc. NOW would be a great time for that.

Jim - J D Race

GM Diff specialists

July 5th, 2007, 04:37 PM	#1 (permalink)
Oldsproject 65 post sport coupe w/425 Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Oregon City, Oregon Posts: 83	65 Cutlass Rear End Looking for advice on rear end selection/change. I have a "65" Cutlass with 3:08's (non-posi). The 425/exhaust combo I put in is eating up the tires and pavement. Can a rear end be converted from non-posi to posi? It's a 10 bolt.

July 6th, 2007, 08:02 AM	#2 (permalink)
2blu442 Moderator Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Medford, Oregon Posts: 2,205	Yes, you can install a posi unit in a non-posi rear but I don't know the availability of the one that would fit your 1965 Cutlass rear end. If your not concerned about original numbers it might be easier to find a newer A-body posi rear end and swap the whole thing. I understand 64-72 will fit, the 68-72 are about an inch wider, but unless you've put big meats under the car I don't think this will be a problem. 71-72 uses the corporate 8.5 10 bolts and parts are readily available. Supercars unlimited in Portland sells new Eaton posi units, I think he has both the 68-70 and 71-72 styles available. So you've got lots of options. I've got several non-posi rear ends available for the 68-72 if you decide to get a newer housing. John __________________ 1964 Cutlass Factory 4spd 1965 442 4spd 1967 442 Auto 1967 Cutlass Convertible 1967 Cutlass four door daily driver 1968 442 Auto 1969 442 W30 Auto 1970 442 4spd 1971 Cutlass Flat Top Wagon 1973 Che*vy 3/4 Ton 454/TH400 Tow Vehicle Only the tow vehicle is finished!

July 6th, 2007, 08:34 AM	#3 (permalink)
joe_padavano Super Moderator Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Northern VA Posts: 4,331	That axle should be a BOP 8.2". You can get parts here: http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com...iac/index.html __________________ Joe Padavano 64 Jetstar 88 Conv 66 442 L-69 Conv 68 W-30 69 H/O 69 442 70 W-30 72 442 84 Custom Cruiser 86 Caprice wagon (w/307 Olds)

September 4th, 2007, 09:43 AM	#5 (permalink)
monzaz Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Richfield, Oh Posts: 204	rear differential help I can walk you through all of it and have helped may do so. The axles can be checked in the car no problem. you just need a 9/16 socket with a extention and some muscle. remove all 4 bolts and then remove the retention plate and pull away...you should use a axle puller tool...BUT I know people just do not have these specialty tools laying around. SO, if you can get a pry bar behind the axle and brake cylinder and some other ideas like a 2x4. If you can get a couple of the backing plate bolts back on the flange with out the axle retaining plate that will give you a good sturdy place to pry against again. Then agian you may get super lucky and it will just pop out. If you car is driving and not been sitting to long it should pop out with little effort. The diff rebuild would be alot ALOT easier out of the car. Besides don't you want to clean the undernethof the car and paint up the control arms etc. NOW would be a great time for that. Jim - J D Race GM Diff specialists

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July 8th, 2007, 06:18 PM	#4 (permalink)
Oldsproject 65 post sport coupe w/425 Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Oregon City, Oregon Posts: 83	Thanks Joe and 2blu442, before I dive in I want to be sure I'm not getting in too far over my head.... (well I already am I guess). First things first though. I raised the rear of the car, removed the tires and hubs. Since allot of this is new to me, this might seem as stupid questions but please bear with me. 1. While I had the car up I noticed I could turn rather easily the rear wheels even though the car was in park and the drive shaft and yoke were not moving, is this normal (boith wheels turned, oposite directions of course)? 2. I also could feel a what seemed like the gears in the rear end engaging but kind of a clicking feeling which seems somewhat normal but something is bothering me about it. It wasn't a real noticable feeling but instead of coming from the center housing felt more towards the outside ends (both) of the axle housing which makes me think that perhaps there's pitted or worn bearings or something of the sort? I may just be a bit paranoid as I read something about "64" and "65" cutlass axle bearing problems. The crux of the article was to be sure to check them as they had a tendancy to go bad and could destroy your axle. However, I can't find where I read it and perhaps it was all just a dream. Am I paranoid or is there something to be concerned about? 3. How difficult is this job IF I tackle the rear end to at least inspect the axle, bearings, gears, etc? Are there any special tools or can the usual run of the mill set accomplish the task (i.e. I don't have any way to press or remove bearings, etc.) 4. Can the job be done with the rear under the car? I'm ready willing and able if it makes sense and with a little help from my friends.