rear gear suggestion
#1
rear gear suggestion
ok so engine tranny done ..
68 cutlass ... was 2 speed trans now 2004r
need suggestions on gears and where to get them ??
has stock 12 bolt whatever came on cutlass supreme 2 speed
68 cutlass ... was 2 speed trans now 2004r
need suggestions on gears and where to get them ??
has stock 12 bolt whatever came on cutlass supreme 2 speed
#5
If your car was built in Canada,then it came with a 12-bolt Chevy rear.If it was not built in Canada,then it has a 12-bolt O-axle.
If it is a 12-bolt Chevy,I would put 3:73's in it.
If it is a 12-bolt O-axle,I would put 3:90's in it.
Remember,you have overdrive,so you can go with those steeper gears,and still cruise around,and fly down the highway.You can get gears for the 12-bolt Chevy from a variety of companies,but you can only get new gears for the O-axle from Richmond,and the onlt two ratios that Richmond makes for the O-axle is 3:42 & 3:90.
If it is a 12-bolt Chevy,I would put 3:73's in it.
If it is a 12-bolt O-axle,I would put 3:90's in it.
Remember,you have overdrive,so you can go with those steeper gears,and still cruise around,and fly down the highway.You can get gears for the 12-bolt Chevy from a variety of companies,but you can only get new gears for the O-axle from Richmond,and the onlt two ratios that Richmond makes for the O-axle is 3:42 & 3:90.
#7
well i havent gotten to drive it much ... I drove it for 20 minutes yesterday ..
im thinking a 700r4 might be easier ... does hit good though get a nice chirp from 1st to 2nd ... probably alot better when gears are done
im thinking a 700r4 might be easier ... does hit good though get a nice chirp from 1st to 2nd ... probably alot better when gears are done
#10
A substantial gear ratio change,like we have mentioned,will show a noticeable difference.It will feel like you added more power to the engine.You will definitely feel it.If you went from a 3:08 to a 3:23,I would say no,but you are jumping from a 2:56 to a 3:73 or 3:90.You will notice that.
#11
A substantial gear ratio change,like we have mentioned,will show a noticeable difference.It will feel like you added more power to the engine.You will definitely feel it.If you went from a 3:08 to a 3:23,I would say no,but you are jumping from a 2:56 to a 3:73 or 3:90.You will notice that.
#12
I went to this transmission shop and the guy there recommended a 700r4. I just don't like the fact that i have to cut my driveshaft. I have also talk to a couple chebby guys and they don't seem to like the 700r4 a lot. I'm definitely going with the 200r4. Also i went from stock peg leg gears to posi 3.73 and yes! u can definitely feel the difference!
#13
Depending on the exact length of the existing driveshaft,some people have gotten away with not cutting the driveshaft,but some have.A recent swap consisted of swapping the TH350,for a 200R4,and the existing driveshaft fit,but it was tight to the point where it wanted to bind,so it was shortened.
Yes,going from a 2:73 to a 3:42 would be noticeable as well.
Yes,going from a 2:73 to a 3:42 would be noticeable as well.
#15
If you have the 12-bolt O-axle,then it will have the 27-spline pinion,and 28-spline axles.You will have about $800.00-$900.00 in parts,before labor.That would include the posi unit,gears,all the bearings & seals to do the entire axle,and an installation kit.The gears alone are over $300.00.
#16
Now i was driving , and heard a bang and now the car dont move at all ..
Was told it is the torque converter ??? it was shifting fine ... i have only driven my car maybe 10 miles off the rebuild .. im very dissappointed ...
Was told it is the torque converter ??? it was shifting fine ... i have only driven my car maybe 10 miles off the rebuild .. im very dissappointed ...
#18
Going from a high 2 gear to a mid/high 3 ratio will make a HUGE difference. That said, you have a pressing issue to deal with after getting "banged"
1) What is the origin of this 200 trans? Junkyard, core, used but "good", rebuilt, "new"? Origin of converter?
2) If rebuilt or "new", does it have an upgraded input shaft? Is the servo on right side of unit still properly retained by ring?
3) Have you checked the simple/stupid items - TV adjustment, linkage, fluid, etc? TC bolts still fastened?
4) Is there a builder responsible for the unit? Can car or trans be brought back to them for diagnosis?
If no fluid hemorrhage, it won't be servo. I don't know how likely TC is to fail, input shafts are notorious for failure, leaving you no fwd or rev gears.
1) What is the origin of this 200 trans? Junkyard, core, used but "good", rebuilt, "new"? Origin of converter?
2) If rebuilt or "new", does it have an upgraded input shaft? Is the servo on right side of unit still properly retained by ring?
3) Have you checked the simple/stupid items - TV adjustment, linkage, fluid, etc? TC bolts still fastened?
4) Is there a builder responsible for the unit? Can car or trans be brought back to them for diagnosis?
If no fluid hemorrhage, it won't be servo. I don't know how likely TC is to fail, input shafts are notorious for failure, leaving you no fwd or rev gears.
Last edited by bccan; March 18th, 2012 at 07:34 AM.
#19
Going from a high 2 gear to a mid/high 3 ratio will make a HUGE difference. That said, you have a pressing issue to deal with after getting "banged"
1) What is the origin of this 200 trans? Junkyard, core, used but "good", rebuilt, "new"? Origin of converter?
2) If rebuilt or "new", does it have an upgraded input shaft? Is the servo on right side of unit still properly retained by ring?
3) Have you checked the simple/stupid items - TV adjustment, linkage, fluid, etc? TC bolts still fastened?
4) Is there a builder responsible for the unit? Can car or trans be brought back to them for diagnosis?
If no fluid hemorrhage, it won't be servo. I don't know how likely TC is to fail, input shafts are notorious for failure, leaving you no fwd or rev gears.
1) What is the origin of this 200 trans? Junkyard, core, used but "good", rebuilt, "new"? Origin of converter?
2) If rebuilt or "new", does it have an upgraded input shaft? Is the servo on right side of unit still properly retained by ring?
3) Have you checked the simple/stupid items - TV adjustment, linkage, fluid, etc? TC bolts still fastened?
4) Is there a builder responsible for the unit? Can car or trans be brought back to them for diagnosis?
If no fluid hemorrhage, it won't be servo. I don't know how likely TC is to fail, input shafts are notorious for failure, leaving you no fwd or rev gears.
Thanks Bcan .. on another thread i discussed my problems with the original builder ... now on to another one problems again ... anybody know any builders here in san diego ???
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