To start out, I know there are several other ways (and cheaper) I could have built this axle and had plenty of strength to do what I need it to do. My car will be mainly street driven with a little track action on the weekends. I wanted and axle that would survive some punishment, something that was a little different than the norm, and didn't want a Ford 9in. That being said, here's the list....

I started with a junk yard 12 bolt. After cleaning and gutting, I took it to Ken Herring at Texas Chassis Works. The axle tubes were welded to the center, shock mounts were welded in place, it was narrowed a total of 2in, Ford 9in ends were welded on, the mains were machined to 3.25in. I then took it to the powder coater to be sandblasted and powder coated black. I placed an order with Mark Williams for all the internals (FYI if you order enough stuff from Mark Williams...they'll send you a nice clock)

Mark Williams:
35 spline Hi-Torque axles with 5/8 studs (threaded for 1/2 also)
Billet Steel main caps
Billet Steel pinion Yoke (1350)
Solid Pinion Spacer
All Timken bearings
3.90 Richmond gears
35 spline Detroit Locker
TA Performance cover
Moser rear disc brake set (rotors with 5/8 and 1/2 bolt pattern)

I finally got everything back. All I need to do now is slide the axles in and fill with fluid. I hope this thing holds up like I want it to. I've got more pics on my Photobucket page. I'm trying to keep a record on everything I do for this build. Now on to suspension.

http://s179.photobucket.com/albums/w...xle%20Rebuild/


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Pretty cool.I did do a 35-spline set-up,in a stock 12-bolt Chevy housing,without boring the saddles.If you keep the stock 3.065 bores,you can use the LL205449 bearing,and LL205410 race combination.With the 3.25" bores,you used the LM104949 bearing,and the LM104911 race.I used those in my Strange aluminum 12-bolt center section,that is going in my Moser 9" housing.The Strange centers have the larger 3.25" bore saddles.

 

Thank you sir.

I really didn't intend to build an axle like this, but I got caught up in the "while I'm at it" syndrome. I figured a 12bolt with C-clip eliminators, some moser axles, posi, and some disc brakes would be fine, but every time I turned around there was something I could do just a little stronger or better "since I was already doing it"......kinda snow balled from there. But I figure if you're going to over build and spend extra money, the axle, trans and motor are the best places to do it.

 

35 spline is too much weight...gun drill the axles or use 33 spline. 35 spline spool deal only .... Again Just 2 cents worth...Maybe even less.

I have run Moser Race axles 30 spline axles in customers cars to 9.90 range NO issues A-body cars

If you have the money Have the fun.

So now it's time to have the fun.

P.S. That housing looks like it was buried for a few years...lol.

Jim
J D

 

How much does it cost these days for reboring a 12 bolt housing saddle?

What is the total amount you have in a junk yard housing, machine work, saddle boring, welding, etc. Wouldn't a already complete aftermarket housing and axle package be more cost effect and stronger? Then set-up your own gears and carrier (spool, posi, etc)

I know there is a Hobby aspect to this whole thing cause you can. But just trying to compare the price differences for others thinking about doing this.

Jim
J D

 

Dang, guess I'll just have to build more motor....

I had asked about the drilled axles when I ordered the ones I have, but the Mark Williams guys did not recommend it (prob misquote this) but something due to the fact that the drill axles are strong enough to handle super high HP launches from a drag car, but didn't have the "right" strength to handle a 3500lbs car bouncing around the streets. Trust me, I would have bought them...what's another $150 ....These are the axles they recommended when I told them the HP range of the motor and the weight of the car.

I really wouldn't recommend anyone else doing a build like I did...If so I'd buy an aftermarket housing...I didn't start out wanting to build the axle the way it turned out, just snow balled on me. I could have bought a complete 12 bolt or even a 9in for about 1/2 of what I have in this axle....Like I said, there are tons of other ways I could have done this that would have been cheaper and possible stronger (honestly a factory 12 bolt would have been fine)...This is what I ended up with, an axle that's different than most, (should be) super strong, at first glance doesn't look out of the ordinary, and isn't completely out of place under a Cutlass (unlike a 9in)

 

You built it once,and won't have to do it again.
You got the same info I did about the drilled axles.I was going to get the drilled axles,but all of the companies said the same thing,not intended for street use,and to run a solid axle shaft.I do think it's cool when you can look all the way through to the other side.
You could get a set of Weld Draglites,and run 10 wheels studs!That would catch some attention.

 

Totally understand the stealth part of the build. Some one would see stock 12 bolt chevy for the most part.

Just trying to help clarify that most would not go that route and i appreciate the fact you say it...lol. Alot of reader would feel this is the route to take and feel it might be the only way to do it correctly and almost get to the point of giving up after finding a guy to rebore a housing and weld all the stuff on etc.

I guess you could call it completing the thread in a round a bout way.

Like you said... NOW lets get some more motor!