yammy

I am having dash removed for electric al, thought should replace heater core while out,
any input on copper or aluminum ?
thx

joe_padavano

What year Cutlass are we talking about? None of them need the dash removed to change the core. It's usually the front fender that needs to come off to access the last couple of fasteners.

yammy

It is a 69, I changed it about 25 years ago, when I was still limber,recall laying on floor a lot,
thought with dash out would be easier, and prudent at this time
thx
copper or aluminum, any difference?

442Harv

I think copper is so much better. Most new are alum. I had my copper one rebuilt for about the same price as a alum one.

yammy

Thx, will look into that.

Fun71

If it ain’t leaking, I wouldn’t mess with it.

Loaded68W34

If your coolant is still green, I don't think I would bother replacing it (brown/ rust is a different story). One made 25 years ago may be higher quality than one you buy today, and there is no assurance that a new one will last any longer than the one you have now. Harv, when did you have yours rebuilt? I had my Toro radiator re-cored in the summer of 2019. Close to $800, but with the W34 switch in the driver side tank I really did not have a choice. Obviously, a heater core should cost less to re-core than a radiator, but I think it will still be pretty expensive.

yammy

$260.00 Canuck bucks for re-built copper heater core, vs 150 for new aluminum

oldcutlass

Rockauto has aluminum for under $50.

PatL

If you do decide to do it, take the passenger seat out, it was much easier for me to get under the dash.

Loaded68W34

I paid $25 for this one in Dec 2020. So yes, I would consider $260 for a re-core a huge price difference. I think I paid close to $60 for the new copper heater core I bought for my Toronado in 2019. Also, is that $260 now or when you had it done? As stated, there is no assurance that a replacement whether new or re-core, copper or aluminum will last any longer than what is already in there. Even if the new heater core has a warranty it is almost guaranteed they are not going to cover labor, so I would leave well enough alone. The only exception to this is if you are pulling the heater box out of the car or pulling the heater hoses off of the heater core for other reasons. Once you start pulling on the pipes and stressing the soldered connections, then it makes some sense to replace. If you are not disturbing the heater hoses to complete your current project, leave well enough alone.

yammy

I have just had the engine replaced, put in storage right after, so have not ran it.
the 260 is current price, re-built locally,
will leave as is for a while, if leaks, can bypass for now.
the 150 for alum, factor dollar difference, shipping, import taxes,
thx

jensenracing77

If you changed it 25 years ago and the antifreeze is good I would not change it. When you changed it did you use a GM part?

yammy

Only recall it was a copper one

69CSHC

Ain't that the truth !

Yammy, the factory copper Harrison heater core in my 69 Supreme lasted 110,000 miles. An aluminum replacement lasted 10,000 miles.

In my case the standard water pump was replaced with a high flow well after the heater core had been replaced. My powertrain is bone stock, first 1/4 mile pass blew the newer heater core. 5000 RPM shifts.

To say I was pissed is an understatement. All money's spent to get the car ready for the big dance. 2 hour drive each way. And not being able to thoroughly ring out the car because of a leak. From a recently replaced costly job.