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Mine crapped out after many years so I need to buy a new one. I don't want to get a cheap POS that will break in 2 yrs.
I'm looking at an Ingersol Rand at Tractor Supply. heres a link:
Today at Lowes I saw basically the same thing (Kobalt brand). It was like $50 cheaper than the IR (currently on sale). The Kobalt had 20 less psi, was 16 cfm vs the IR 15.8 cfm. I'm not sure on the warrranties, or who makes the motors etc. I did read mixed reviews on the IR though. I always thought they were good but it was like 50/50 on the reviews. Some were very pleased with no problems and others spoke of motors crapping out and no warranty coverage. That's what scares me. That's ALOT of $!!! If I'm paying that much I'm expecting AT LEAST 15+ years of trouble free performance. I cannot afford to **** $ away. I want to get a bigger/better one because I don't know what the future holds. I could be running a sandblasted, DA sanders, auto lift. Who knows?
Anyway, I'm looking for advice, facts, opinions etc..
As of this point and most likely it will be all light duty/pampered usage. Not an everyday auto shop or anything.
Throw your thoughts this way: Thanks in advance, Boz
Boz,
Can't help with selection. You might check TP Tools in Canfield, OH. Sometimes they have free shipping. Here is the link http://www.tptools.com/. Good luck!
BTW, if you never been to TP Tools, it is an interesting place to just browse. They have a car collection/restoration area too. Ken
What crapped out on your current compressor? They can be repaired in some cases for considerably less than a new one. Some of the older compressors were built a lot better than their newer counterparts.
It's a craftsman single stage I bought when I bought my last house (2002). The bearings in the motor went bad. It's ridiculous to rebuild electric motors!!! For not much more I can have brand new, bigger, 2 stage, more psi etc. I'll just scrap the motor and use the tank for storage most likely. Partially my own fault for not fixing it years ago. It would very slowly leak down then kick on etc etc. I should've had it fixed under warranty but I never thought about it. It was out in the garage so out of sight (and hearing range) out of mind. It lasted 14 yrs. probably would've lasted a lot more than double that if I had fixed it. Lesson learned.
CFM is rated at different PSI. Cubic feet /minute is what you need to run sanders, blasters, sprayers, etc. When comparing CFM, you must match CFM at what PSI to compare.
Also look at the duty cycle of the motor. The higher the better.
I bought a Harbor Freight and replaced the motor 3 years later as I dogged it using a DA. Replacement motor was over half of complete compressor cost.
Replacing motor bearings is easy and cheap, but an upgrade after 14 years is better. Buy the largest and best you can afford.
Boz,
I bought one last year exactly the same as the one at the link you posted. It has been awesome for me. I am able to run my media blast cabinet as long as I need to. Pushing 40PSI at the cabinet, the compressor comes on when tank pressure drops below 150. Even with continual blasting, the compressor gets back up to 175PSI and shuts off, until pressure drops back below 150 again. I have all positive experience to report with mine. I got it at Murdochs on sale for $1049, just $50 more than the one you linked to. I removed the plug from the bottom of the tank and installed a drain pipe for moisture/condensation - which I drain about once a month. I also mounted it to the floor of the garage, and installed an electronic run-time meter that I bought from Amazon for about $6. It does seem to run a little loud, but, hey!, it's in the garage, eh?
I have that exact model from Tractor Supply. My last one was a 60 gallon IR from the same place. The first one I thought was going to be bigger than I would ever outgrow. I ended up outgrowing it... I had it for 6 years and sold it for the same price I paid for it because the price went up on them after I bought it. I then bought the one in your link. This was about 3 years ago. I have had zero issues with it and very pleased. I have a bead blast cabinet and it will keep up with no problem at all.
One thing I strongly recommend! Whatever you buy, make sure it has a cast iron pump and not aluminum. I have three friends, each with a differant compressor with an aluminum pump. All three of them have to replace head gaskets now and then. A friend of mine worked for IR and he said it is common on aluminum compressors. The head gaskets are simple to change at least, they just go at a bad time...
Feeling better about this now, thanks guys. Although, I always seem to be the lucky one who has the one in a million whatever that breaks or whatever. I was reading about those timers that control the drain but at $150 I definitely could wait..or just do it manually. I'm interested to see how that run time meter looks and was installed. Good idea!
I think I'm ready to pull the trigger on it. I don't know what I'm waiting for. I guess I'm just not looking forward to the transport and unloading etc even though I have a tractor. Space is very limited in the garage right now until spring when I HAVE TO clean it!!!
I just ran power to the garage for my welder. I didn't hook up the drops yet so I guess I can take one drop and split it up in a junction box and have a receptacle for the welder and hardwire the compressor, or just use one receptacle for both. I'll never be using both at the same time. I just called the local Tractor Supply and they have just 1 left (floor model). Maybe it's scratched and I could get even more off.
Well, pulled the trigger on the IR. Got cheaper online price and then got military discount. Manager told me its one or the other and I said (as I pulled out wad of cash from my pocket) I want both. Once I walk out of here I won't be back and I'll get it from another store. She said ok, but that they (TS) don't really give military discounts. 906 out the door. I'll pick up at a later date.
I opted to NOT purchase the protection plan (150 for 3 yrs or 2 something for 4)
Fingers crossed that I don't have any issues. Pump has 2 yr warranty and I think everything is under 1 yr limited warranty.
My question to those who have one is how many amp circuit do I need? I was gonna plug into my welders circuit but that's a 60 amp dedicated line. I don't want any issues, I'm certain that's waay too much but couldn't find the info and even the motor didn't list the amps. I'm guessing it's probably gonna need a 20 amp circuit but I'm not sure yet.
Mine is on a 30 amp. I did not get the extended warranty either. I do recommend following the brake in and oil change procedure and then change the oil an extra time after about an hour or two of operation. My oil was a little dirtier than expected during brake in. I likely pay to much for the oil but I do use the T30 Select IR oil in it.
Should I just leave it on the 60 amp circuit? My uncle who messes with electricity said he would but then again, he has plenty of $ to replace stuff, I don't.
I could always get a small panel with the appropriate circuit breaker, 30 amp or whatever, and wire it to a plug to plug into the 60 amp receptacle. That would be way cheaper than running a dedicated line out from the main panel in the house.
For my drain, I used an ell and a ball valve. Drilled a hole in the valve handle. Used a rod long enough to just reach out to tank edge. Bent a 90 on each end, drilled and attached to valve handle with cotter pin. It lays on floor and I just open and close it with my foot.
Good to hear that you got a new compressor. I'm sure you will be happy with it. I have a Kobalt compressor from Lowes. It works fine, but I hardly ever use it. I really should change the oil and drain the tank, it's overdue. It's just a small 38 gallon compressor.
The drain ain't rocket science. Remove installed drain. install a ell or street ell. nipple and ball valve. If you use a long enough nipple you bring the ball valve out to the side where you can reach it. I didn' have a long pipe nipple or tubing to reach, so I did this. You made me sweep out the cobwebs. I also wanted it pointed to the wall.
In humid weather I drain it often, just turn off compressor, kick it open and go out the door. I also have a Sharpe filter and water trap, plus a dessicant filter for painting.
I always had trouble with the fancy auto drains were I worked.
s to get pic.
I have the slightly older version of that same IR compressor. I think the main difference is the location of the outlet on the tank. Anyway I have used mine a lot in the 5 years I have had it. It keeps up with mu HF blast cabinet and all the standard air tools I have. No complaints.
If ya hadn't already bought I'd steer you toward Northern Tool.They're carrying Quincy compressors now. My old Craftsman has gotten weak, probably a stuck or worn reed valve, and I expect Quincy will be the way I go. Pretty sure the IR pumps are made in India whereas Quincy are US made.
Everyone is always concerned with the longevity of the motor or the compressor head, but forget that you need to drain the tank on a regular basis. Compressors create a lot of water inside the tank, and I have seen lots of home compressors rust out on the bottom from the water that hasn't been drained off. I drain mine regularly, and I still get a lot of water out of it every time.
You should provide a separate circuit for the unit, and I would suggest that you wire it with a 10 gauge 30 amp circuit, unless you know that it draws less. Most of those type units are a minimum of 3 HP. The circuit breaker is designed to protect the home wiring from overheating. If you need help with the electrical side of things, go to www.garagejournal.com and you will find many threads about how to wire and plumb a air compressor. Great people over there just like here.
Well, I went and picked it up today because we are starting to get small nuisance storms here (snow). Forecast 3-7 sat morning etc but I had paid for the whole compressor except 6 bucks that way I could keep it on layaway but that was scheduled to end in Feb so I figured I better get it now. After I muscled that bohemoth into the garage I got to looking at the old compressor. I said "what the hell, it's already broken" so I pulled it out of its deep dark abyss and started looking at it. It was cold and windy out and even though I was in the garage with the door shut, it was still extremely cold and my Monte was sitting outside. I figured I better get that back in ASAP so I pulled the motor off the compressor and put it right on my dining room table because I don't have anywhere else available right now. Put everything back in the garage then came back in to play with the motor. Took it apart. One bearing was in pieces everywhere. Took it all apart. Tomorrow I'll see if I can pick up some bearings. I'm sick thinking I just paid over 900 for a new compressor when I could fix the old one for a few bucks and a little time. I'd feel like a real douche if I brought the other one back and it's a lot of work moving that around etc but I sure could think of ALOT of things I could use that 900 for. I jumped on it because there was a sale that was ending. So anyway, I'm wondering what to do with the old one once I fix it. I could sell it, put it in my basement so I have one in the house (no more trips to the garage in the cold or rain, I could give it to my dad but he won't take care of it and would probably give it to my brother or something. I'm leaning toward the basement idea. Idk..should've checked this out before but now my procrastination is costing me
My 2 cents is...fix the old one first and make sure it runs okay. Then take the new one back to TSC for a refund. If you try and sell the old one you may only recover the repair cost. Good luck in whatever you decide.
Keep them both... I am a firm believer of having two of each type tool if at all possible provided it is cost effective... Since you already have the new compressor, it can't hurt to have the old one as a backup... You never know, the new one can crap out just as easily as your old one did, they don't make new things the way they did in the past...
I have my 80 gallon 2 stage IR compressor in the basement and I love it. I have a 3 way switch wired so I can turn it on and off from the garage or the basement and I have the garage and basement workshop both plumbed for compressed air. Its just barely audible in my garage with everything else off and its really not super noisy unless you go into the room in the basement where I have it. I ran a drain line to my basement drain out of 3/8? pvc pipe and I just hit the ball valve once a month to drain.
If you have a separate garage from the house I would consider putting your old compressor down there if you do keep it. I agree, $900 isn't chump change and if you can fix what you have there are plenty of other uses for the money. Like car parts and guns!
I have mine vented outside with a section of PFA compression fit to the SS316 Swagelok tubing and 1/4 turn valve. No water n dust blowin around in garage. Drain the tank daily or you will rot out the tank. For the lazy, an auto drain is available too.
Always purchase the best compressor you can afford preferably USA made. Im not a huge fan of direct drive oil-less. The belt drive oiled compressors are best (quieter and less RPM=longevity). Quincy is the best piston driven compressor on the market. Atlas, BelAir, Rolair are runners up...then IR. Only reason IR isnt 2nd on the list is its not USA. Though I will admit it is a good unit as I believe its Japanese not chineasium harbor junk. I have IR air tools. They are much better then snap-off at least air hammers are. The 1/2" drive "thunder gun" absolutely rocks! The Snap-On 3/8" drive air ratchet is superior to all others. So are Snap-off air chisels.
Keep them both... I am a firm believer of having two of each type tool if at all possible provided it is cost effective... Since you already have the new compressor, it can't hurt to have the old one as a backup... You never know, the new one can crap out just as easily as your old one did, they don't make new things the way they did in the past...
Well, that's how I feel about my old welder. I bought the best Lincoln weld pak (brand new) and bought a tank and new wire etc. Barely used it. Got a great deal on a large commercial welder and thought, why keep the little one? I can do everything with the big one. I have regretted selling the little guy ever since. I could've taken that anywhere. The big one is obviously too big and not only that, it requires a 220 line so I can't just plug in wherever I want and I actually had to run a dedicated line etc costing even more $. But I just need to use my head. I don't want 2 of everything either. That's what old people do.. Lol. I can put my $ elsewhere. I'll probably just keep the new one and keep this as a backup.
Put new bearings in today. One was obliterated, one was going bad and one was good. Replaced all three. I also noticed that the compression ring was looking beat so I just ordered a kit with new piston, sleeve, compression ring, and gaskets. Thing should be brand new when I'm done
Last edited by Bozang1; December 16th, 2016 at 05:17 PM.
Oh I can never make up my mind...I keep thinking if I returned the new one I could buy 2 new half 1/4's for the cutlass and still have $ leftover..ughhhh
FWIW...Air compressors will always be available and on sale. But you need to decide how to save/spend your money.
If you need air in your basement, plumb a hard line from your garage compressor.
Caught 26 gal Quincy vertical on sale at Northern Tool yesterday so it is sitting in the garage.. It will do about anything I need, and I may piggyback the old Craftsman to get extra capacity. Guy at NT said an oil change might free up the Craftsman if the reeds are stuck. So yeah, I might have bought something I could have gotten by without. But- Craftsman is 28 yrs old and has pumped a bunch of air in its time, so it owes no service.
I almost bought a two-stage 60 gal since it also was $100 off and garage is already wired for it, but I asked myself, realistically, how often now will I need 15 cfm at 175 psi? 9 at 90 should do everything I need short of sandblasting.
Agreed on those buzzy-*** oil-free compressors. Buddy who helped me haul the Quincy home has a Craftsman oil-free about 20 yrs old and I think I've got him inspired to sell it and get himself an oil-lubed Quincy next time we catch them on sale.
I have an Ingersoll Rand SS-3 (Single Stage 3HP, 220, max pressure ~135, 60 gallon tank). I've had "flapper's" in the past (named for the type of valves inside). The horrible ring will relieve you of some of your hearing in short order. The IR makes some noise but I could easily stand right next to it and carry on a phone conversation. The noise is much lower frequency, lower in volume and less irritating.
I've done something similar to "m371961". From the bottom of the tank I have a short nipple, 90, longer nipple and a ball valve so I can bend over and let the moisture out. I hated the little gizmo they had on the bottom of the tank mostly because it was hard to reach. It was also small (diameter of a pencil) so it wasn't easy to operate while you had your forearm and knees on the concrete floor.
I'd never own another flapper and I'd highly recommend some modification to get the moisture out easily lest it be rusting away.
Just got back from in laws (out of state). My final part I needed came for the craftsman so hopefully I can throw the motor back together either tonight or tomorrow. Still have ALOT to do for Christmas. Maybe tomorrow while kids playing and I'm waiting for wife to come home from work. Brand new bearings, seals, piston kit (con rod, piston and compression ring) so it will basically have a full rebuild.
As for the IR, I'm gonna keep it but won't have a chance to hook up until spring. I gotta move some stuff in garage, run some wiring etc. Too cold for me right now. Yes, I could heat up the garage to a comfortable temp but that means my monte would be outside. I'll wait.
well guys I have an old devilbiss from the CN railyards that hit the floor in 1965 it was originally a 3 phase 15hp unit I have a single 5hp on it now and have yet to run out of air and all its ever had done is change the crank oil every year or 50 or so hours of run time.
November 27th, 2016, 09:15 PM
