servexcell

I have a 68 Cutlass Convertible , the body is ready to be removed from the frame just have 2 more bolts to remove.

Does anyone have recommendations of what i can use as a body dolly.

Bruce

RonFX

Hello:
I built mine w/ 2x6 and 2x8 lumber all bolted together w/ carriage bolts, I bought wheels from Harbor Freight to make it roll and swivel around. Plenty heavy enough to roll onto a flat bed and go to the blaster and back and a couple other trips, I have less than $125.00 in it. Hope this helps.
Thanks, Ron

GlennLever

Here is one I built

servexcell

Thanks Glen and Ron. Ron do you have a picture of the one you made. Glen , were you able to fasten the body to it.

Bruce

GlennLever

I did not fasten the body to it , just set it on it. It is now under at 1949 Chevy Fleetmaster.

Hairy Olds

This is a dolly I built for my 67 Toronado. It doesn't look pretty but it was solid as a rock and I transported many time on a trailer with no difficulties. I did not bolt it to the body.


body4_zps41t5xvrg.jpg


body7_zpsie6xqrxt.jpg

body6_zpspf40ba99.jpg



body5_zpsl5mrjhtn.jpg

RonFX

Hello:
My dolly is taller and longer than the one Hairy Olds posted, but same basic concept, mine is tall enough for chassis to roll under when we reset the body.
Thanks, Ron

RonFX

Hey:
Forgot to mention, I strapped the body down w/ ratchet straps and a couple lag bolts thru floor pan into wood crossmember.
Thanks, Ron

cdrod

Bruce,
Here's a pic of my home made body cart. It's made of 2x6 and 4x4 blocks. I have is screwed down at the front torque boxes, but the rear mounts are not bolted down. Since the picture was taken, I've added larger 8" pneumatic casters from Harbor Freight and additional plywood bracing at the 4x4s. It's pretty solid and rolls easily with the larger casters.

servexcell

Rodney , would you have the measurements of the pieces of wood you cut with a diaghram as how and were each piece assembles. Mine is a 68 convert. the body should be the same dimensions.

Thanks Bruce

cdrod

Bruce:
I didn't make a drawing before building the cart, I just measured the mounting points on the car and worked out the details on the fly. I can tell you this, the long 2x6s running front-to-back are 10' long and the 4x4 blocks are 10" tall. I have attached another pic showing the cart from the rear. The rear mounting points are inboard from the front mounts. To get the correct width and height I stacked two 2x6s (for strength) and added another 2x6 block to get the correct height. You could just cut the rear 4x4s 11.5" tall and eliminate the extra 2x6 block. I used large lag bolts to anchor the front mounts at the torque boxes, but there are cage nuts n the body at the rear mounts so lag bolts wouldn't work. To keep the body from sliding off in the rear I added 1x4s on either side of the 4x4 block and set them about 1" higher than the 4x4 so the body rail would sit in between the 1x4s and couldn't slide off sideways. I also added another triangular brace (not shown in this pic) across the rear 4x4 block and the sideways 2x6 to make the cart stronger.

Here's the rear pic.

Hairy Olds

That is a pretty looking dolly.

servexcell

Thanks guys for your help , much appreciated. Thanks for the pictures especially Rodney's convert showing the body braces.

Bruce