rktolds

How have you guys installed front springs without an engine to add weight? I don't have a few buddies handy to come over and help. I see Autozone rents a spring compressor but reviews aren't heart warming. The reason for the question is I am switching brakes from parts car (disc) to wife's vista (drum) to keep both rollers until the parts car is gone. Any help appreciated. Thanks.

Matt

oldcutlass

Whether it has an engine or not, the springs can be changed. If your going with poly control arm bushings don't torque them down until after the engine is in the car with weight on them.

You can change springs with out a spring compressor, I just did mine. Be very careful and read up on it before you attempt if you've never done it.

Allan R

Here's a link to a How To video. Its basically the same for all these cars. Keep in mind springs are incredibly powerful and dangerous things. If you have no experience with this, get someone who can do this to help you. Good luck with your project. Glad my engine was in the car.

boese1978

Recently did the front springs sans the engine. Here is a tip that worked awesome for me- Rent the spring compressor or buy one. Take it apart, run it up from the bottom ( leave the lower control arm hanging out of the way) with only one of the "arms"( the non-threaded one) run the threaded shaft through the spring and up and out through the top shock hole, put a thick washer on the shaft so it lays on the frame ( don't need to do this, I just did to protect what I had painted etc.) and screw on the threaded "arm". The upper control arm and frame will keep the threaded "arm" from turning so you can tighten. Basically this compresses the spring into the upper frame pocket. Compress it enough to swing the lower control arm up and give you enough room to get the spindle on the ball joints. After the spindle is attached you can un compress the spring and turn/twist/ etc the spring so the pigtails are where you need them to be.
I have tried compressing the spring and trying to fit it in there using the compressor as the instructions say and this way will save you a lot of time.

boese1978

I watched the video link provided, same way but I think it is much easier starting from the bottom as then you will not have all the threaded shaft hanging in the way when you swing the lower control arm up.

Run to Rund

I used a long threaded rod, 5/8" diameter since they are usually only hardware grade, with good high pressure wheel bearing grease on the threads. Plates or washers on the upper end at the shock hole, and the lower shock hole in the control arm.

Octania

The way I did this- I put the spring top in place, convinced the lower end to be more or less starting in place in the lower A-arm, then began to lift the lower A-arm with a cherry picker. When I saw the frame rising- lack of engine weight- I simply chained the frame to the cherry picker legs. Pretty soon, the lower BJ was close enough to get the nut started and get things a little safer.

Of course, you must be very respectful of the energy stored in a spring, and don't put your hands anywhere they might get hurt if something cuts loose. A chain on the spring Just In Case is not at all a bad idea also. Safety chain.

oldspackrat

I've messed with springs a few times & it always makes me pucker!

benji94

Matt...I just put the springs back in my restored frame just last week. Rented the Autozone spring compressor and it worked like a charm. Took a total of maybe 15 minutes per side. Frame on jackstands high enough with the upper control arm detached from the ball joint. Place the spring in position as far as it could go. the compressor goes up through the spring from UNDERNEATH the lower control arm. Attached the top hooks to very near the top of the spring and the bottom hooks are against the bottom of the lower aframe. Place a jack under the outer edge of the lower control arm.

Now with a rachet crank on the compressor a few rounds at a time alternating with raising the jack under the lower control arm. You'll slowly but carefully decrease the distance between the stud of the upper ball joint and the spindle...actually doesn't take that much if doing both together. Stop when you are able to thread the nut on the upper ball joint stud. Tighten it and then back off the spring compressor...Done!

If the end of the bottom coil isn't quite in position, position don't worry about it...it'll seat itself within a few miles of driving.