15 yo needs help
#1
15 yo needs help
Hey, I'm 15 and looking for a project car to start working on. I live in the eastern stretch of PA looking for a car in the 69-72 years. So, if you guys could maybe keep an eye out for one with a reasonable price, that would be really appreciated.
Thanks, Mitch
Thanks, Mitch
#3
Thanks for moving it. So, a budget in ind is like $5,500- $ 7,000, and I just found this one, but its a little far, but tell me what you think.
http://www.oldsmobilecentral.com/for...e-Columbus.php
http://www.oldsmobilecentral.com/for...e-Columbus.php
Last edited by mitchy; February 3rd, 2015 at 03:39 PM.
#8
The link is back up.
http://www.oldsmobilecentral.com/for...e-Columbus.php
http://www.oldsmobilecentral.com/for...e-Columbus.php
#9
The link is back up.
http://www.oldsmobilecentral.com/for...e-Columbus.php
http://www.oldsmobilecentral.com/for...e-Columbus.php
Looks really straight.
#11
Looking at that '68 in the link....something's up with the pass fender. I'd put eyes on that car, preferably with a mechanic or body guy.
Also, I'd be careful with the whole, "We're not the original owner so we don't know anything about this car!" approach.
Good luck with your search, young grasshopper!
Also, I'd be careful with the whole, "We're not the original owner so we don't know anything about this car!" approach.
Good luck with your search, young grasshopper!
#12
There is a project listed here by a fellow member that might work for you. I hope you find a car and don't be afraid to ask us "Gray Beards" for help.....we all were where you are now, (but not all of us can remember!)
Look for a '72 Cutlass from Olds442redberet
Look for a '72 Cutlass from Olds442redberet
Last edited by Dave Siltman; February 4th, 2015 at 04:32 PM.
#14
Welcome to the site mitchy and good luck with your hunt. When you find something close to what you want you're going to get all excited but take it slow, look 'er over good. Set yourself up for success, not headaches.
#15
Hey Mitch, found this on Racingjunk...
http://www.racingjunk.com/Oldsmobile...s-Supreme.html
No pictures but write-up is interesting. There were a few other cars on there (I just did a search for "Oldsmobile") but some are BIG projects.
Good luck.
http://www.racingjunk.com/Oldsmobile...s-Supreme.html
No pictures but write-up is interesting. There were a few other cars on there (I just did a search for "Oldsmobile") but some are BIG projects.
Good luck.
#17
Found car
Hey guys, what do you think about this one? It's a 69 442. The guy has had the motor and trans rebuilt, and all the body work done but it requires major re-assembly. It looks to be all the parts are there and refurbished. What would be a fair price for it?
#18
Looks assembled to me.
I have no idea what it's worth, but I'd buy it if the price is right.
What does the seller want for it?
When I was a kid, I reluctantly passed on a completely disassembled (body tub and lots of boxes), rust-free, Porsche 356C, with all the new parts needed for the engine, window seals, etc., for $1,200.
Been kicking myself for it ever since.
- Eric
I have no idea what it's worth, but I'd buy it if the price is right.
What does the seller want for it?
When I was a kid, I reluctantly passed on a completely disassembled (body tub and lots of boxes), rust-free, Porsche 356C, with all the new parts needed for the engine, window seals, etc., for $1,200.
Been kicking myself for it ever since.
- Eric
#20
It's not all restored - it needs paint.
I'll let the 442 guys come up with a value, but I will point out that you have no idea what's under that primer, and no idea what's inside the engine, transmission, and rear end.
Paying a near-market price for a car is fine if you can drive it and be reasonably certain that it runs and drives properly, but this car is, as my old man says, a pig in a poke, and you never buy a pig in a poke (unless it's for the value of the ham alone).
- Eric
I'll let the 442 guys come up with a value, but I will point out that you have no idea what's under that primer, and no idea what's inside the engine, transmission, and rear end.
Paying a near-market price for a car is fine if you can drive it and be reasonably certain that it runs and drives properly, but this car is, as my old man says, a pig in a poke, and you never buy a pig in a poke (unless it's for the value of the ham alone).
- Eric
#21
X2 with Eric
First, that motor in the pic does not look fresh. Second the car needs paint at the very least. You end up over invested. These come up regularly so don't think this is your last chance.
#23
First, I would make sure that the motor is completely free and smooth.
Then, if everything else looks good to you, and also to some other person who is experienced with older cars (and you may be able to get a member of this board to come over and look it over with you), and you decide that this is really worth ten grand, you give each cylinder a good squirt of penetrating oil, roll it over a few times, give 'em another squirt, drain the oil out, change the filter, let it sit for a few days, refill the oil, crank it over with the plugs out and the coil wire disconnected, with an oil pressure gauge on it, make sure the pressure comes up nicely, maybe pull the valve covers to be sure oil is coming out the pushrods, then connect the coil, pour an ounce of gas into the carburetor, screw the air cleaner back on (important: fire bad), and let 'er rip.
- Eric
Then, if everything else looks good to you, and also to some other person who is experienced with older cars (and you may be able to get a member of this board to come over and look it over with you), and you decide that this is really worth ten grand, you give each cylinder a good squirt of penetrating oil, roll it over a few times, give 'em another squirt, drain the oil out, change the filter, let it sit for a few days, refill the oil, crank it over with the plugs out and the coil wire disconnected, with an oil pressure gauge on it, make sure the pressure comes up nicely, maybe pull the valve covers to be sure oil is coming out the pushrods, then connect the coil, pour an ounce of gas into the carburetor, screw the air cleaner back on (important: fire bad), and let 'er rip.
- Eric
#24
upholstery on the one bucket seat doesn't appear to be correct,
what is visible of the engine sure doesn't look like a fresh rebuild,
it IS a correct "G" block, whether it is matching needs verified,
oil pressure connection fittings at front of block look like for a rally pac oil gauge-rally pac is a plus.
Ram-air air cleaner is a nice, not-cheap, but, not original piece.
Are hoses and scoops with it?
4-speed or automatic?
Eric is basically on the money-primer, among other things, makes it a pig in a poke.
$10 G's should buy you a lot more than what we can see here.
Last edited by 67442nut; February 9th, 2015 at 05:45 PM.
#25
I agree the motor doesn't look freshly re-built. The story is that the owner of the car spent a lot of money on it and is unable to finish. He is not around to talk to and his family is trying to sell for him. Me and my dad looked it over and the body work looks like it was done right. We were able to see the door panels and seats and they were re-done and look good. It does have the rally pack and the clock-tac. The seat that is in the picture is a temporary seat. There are also a bunch of new parts in boxes. My dad says we would not pay $10000 for it. I was just wondering what you guys thought.
#26
Welcome and good luck. if you and your dad like what you looked at and think you could finish the car don't be to timid to make him a offer that you wil be happy with. CASH talks! He can only say yes or no. Larry
#27
It definitely has a lot of question marks. I don't think there will be a lot of people lining up to buy this car and the offer needs to reflect the amount of work/rework it may/will take put it back on the road.
#28
I would pass on that for $10,000 because for a few grand more you can have a lot less work at that point. I think the real question is what is your max budget? Most people will say always buy as close to your max budget as you can (as far as quality and completeness goes). But being only 15, I guess you have more time to work on a project then most of us.
Take your time and don't buy something you can't handle. Good deals are around. If you are a member of oldsmobilecentral.com, you can set up email alerts for your years, prices, location, models, etc... so you can get instantly notified when something you are looking for gets posted.
Good luck. Oldsmobiles are a lot of fun and this community is really amazing.
Take your time and don't buy something you can't handle. Good deals are around. If you are a member of oldsmobilecentral.com, you can set up email alerts for your years, prices, location, models, etc... so you can get instantly notified when something you are looking for gets posted.
Good luck. Oldsmobiles are a lot of fun and this community is really amazing.
#29
I see a SMALL BLOCK #1 LH exhaust manifold
And rust on everything
and cheesy Taiwan chrome valve covers
It is evidently a real 442 but not W30 [Canadian made- body tag]
Canadian body tags in '69 were kind enough to use "34477" where the 344 parts says "442 model" for sure. You may even find on this sample that the body tag last 6 match the VIN last 6.
Check the engine VIN stamp, but even if that is correct and original, 10k is a stretch for what I see. Is that Pesos?
Go with cash and offer less, a LOT less. Like 3-4k. Wave the cash and thrust it at them. Sometimes that works. Cash in your hand has an effect.
At that level you can maybe do OK taking it all back apart as much as need be and making it pretty again.
And rust on everything
and cheesy Taiwan chrome valve covers
It is evidently a real 442 but not W30 [Canadian made- body tag]
Canadian body tags in '69 were kind enough to use "34477" where the 344 parts says "442 model" for sure. You may even find on this sample that the body tag last 6 match the VIN last 6.
Check the engine VIN stamp, but even if that is correct and original, 10k is a stretch for what I see. Is that Pesos?
Go with cash and offer less, a LOT less. Like 3-4k. Wave the cash and thrust it at them. Sometimes that works. Cash in your hand has an effect.
At that level you can maybe do OK taking it all back apart as much as need be and making it pretty again.
Last edited by Octania; February 10th, 2015 at 09:55 AM.
#30
#32
Hey guys! Found a car that me and my dad are going to check out tomorrow. It's a 69 the guy says he's done all the work and it looks real nice. So I was just wondering what some things to look for on the car would be. Here's the link, http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/4933484109.html
#34
Hmmm, I guess it comes down to what you are looking for. For starters the paint looks dull so maybe it has not been buffed out yet. It is good that it is black because bodywork that is not straight will really show. The carpet looks not to be original style and bumpers look rusty. The basic engine may be tired at the mileage listed. A lot of the chrome trim is missing.... I think the car is way overpriced. This is just my opinion.
#37
Some apparent flaws that might help with negotiating the price down:
- Front bumper looks a bit twisted
- Looks like original red paint on A pillar
- Headliner seems to be missing/ratty around the rear window/sails
- Looks like incorrect chrome trim for the vinyl cut at the back, and missing the wrap around pieces
- Quarter window vertical seals look to be bad or missing
Certainly not a car I'd pay $9500 for, and I'd sure be wondering what's been covered up by the work that has been done.
- Front bumper looks a bit twisted
- Looks like original red paint on A pillar
- Headliner seems to be missing/ratty around the rear window/sails
- Looks like incorrect chrome trim for the vinyl cut at the back, and missing the wrap around pieces
- Quarter window vertical seals look to be bad or missing
Certainly not a car I'd pay $9500 for, and I'd sure be wondering what's been covered up by the work that has been done.