drum won't come off

ztim · November 21st, 2006, 02:50 PM

The wheel came off okay but the drum over the brake on the right rear of my 84 Delta 88 won't come off. What is holding it on? I gotta find a leak.

texasred · November 21st, 2006, 08:14 PM

Try backing off the self-adjuster on the back side. A rubber or leather mallet works great.

C.J.

ztim · November 22nd, 2006, 01:07 PM

What does the self adjuster look like? I tried a rawhide mallet on the backside of the cover but was afraid I bust something and then be able to get it back on.

Oldsmaniac · November 22nd, 2006, 02:47 PM

Often rust builds up on drum where shoes dont ride. This ridge will prevent the drum from pulling past the shoes. Some backing plates and drums dont have an adjuster slot so you may not be able to loosen the shoe adjustment....if there is a slot sometimes the spring and adjuster lever will only allow the star wheel to push the shoes out unless a second tool is used to move adjuster lever off of spoked adjuster. Lastly if the trouble is a rust ring you can try and scrape it off with a screwdriver between the backing plate and drum....keep working at it and it will release.

Oldsguy · November 25th, 2006, 08:23 AM

Also, you might have an actual ridge built up at the edge of the drum which is preventing it's removal, if the previous owner never maintained the brakes then you might have to use some very agressive "encouragement" with the mallet, you probable won't damage anything in the brakes by hitting too hard except perhaps a retainer spring and if one of those go then they were too old/rusted and ready to be replaced anyway. C.J. didn't mean hitting the backing plate, hit the drum itself, first on one side and then the other. What you are trying to do is knock the crud and rust from the brakes and get them to recede (sp?) back to their resting position. If you don't know what the brakes look like or have never seen them or can't visualize it then you really should find a maintenance book that has a good diagram of GM drum brakes. It will help you immensely. Also, something like PB Blaster might help if your car has the little adjusting slot on the backing plate, you can put the straw up into that slot and spray the daylights out the interior of that drum, it might help break all that rust and gunk free. You will have a mess to clean up but brakes are really messy anyway and you may end up having the drums turned or replaced. If you plan on doing the brake job yourself, include some brake cleaning spray in your consumable supplies to make the job easier.

Just thought about something else, it could be that the wheel cylinder has some scoring on the inside of it that is preventing the brakes from returning to the resting position, when you do get the drum off, inspect that cylinder closely, as you said your are troubleshooting a leak anyway, it might be better to just replace that cylinder. It is usually cheaper to do that than hone and rebuild them anymore and some people always do them in pairs, especially the fronts but it's up to you.

Pfiffle · November 25th, 2006, 02:00 PM

I agree. Hit it (the drum) with a hammer and alternate sides you are hitting. Don't "smash" it just Knock it and it will break free.

ozoneblue · November 26th, 2006, 08:04 AM

If your unfamilar with the brake system parts tear the outher side down for refrence .Also when replaceing wheel cyl do both sides ,My experience has show me it will leak next

American Lead · December 16th, 2006, 05:34 PM

Is it the floating kind or the kind with the dust cover with the bolt under it?

November 21st, 2006, 02:50 PM	#1 (permalink)
ztim Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: SC Posts: 275	drum won't come off The wheel came off okay but the drum over the brake on the right rear of my 84 Delta 88 won't come off. What is holding it on? I gotta find a leak.

November 21st, 2006, 08:14 PM	#2 (permalink)
texasred Tom Servo's Stunt Double Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 824	Try backing off the self-adjuster on the back side. A rubber or leather mallet works great. C.J. __________________ Dad said, "Sometimes you read Job...sometimes you ARE Job!"

November 25th, 2006, 08:23 AM	#5 (permalink)
Oldsguy Hot Rodder at heart Administrator Join Date: May 2004 Location: Lees Summit MO Posts: 5,311	Also, you might have an actual ridge built up at the edge of the drum which is preventing it's removal, if the previous owner never maintained the brakes then you might have to use some very agressive "encouragement" with the mallet, you probable won't damage anything in the brakes by hitting too hard except perhaps a retainer spring and if one of those go then they were too old/rusted and ready to be replaced anyway. C.J. didn't mean hitting the backing plate, hit the drum itself, first on one side and then the other. What you are trying to do is knock the crud and rust from the brakes and get them to recede (sp?) back to their resting position. If you don't know what the brakes look like or have never seen them or can't visualize it then you really should find a maintenance book that has a good diagram of GM drum brakes. It will help you immensely. Also, something like PB Blaster might help if your car has the little adjusting slot on the backing plate, you can put the straw up into that slot and spray the daylights out the interior of that drum, it might help break all that rust and gunk free. You will have a mess to clean up but brakes are really messy anyway and you may end up having the drums turned or replaced. If you plan on doing the brake job yourself, include some brake cleaning spray in your consumable supplies to make the job easier. Just thought about something else, it could be that the wheel cylinder has some scoring on the inside of it that is preventing the brakes from returning to the resting position, when you do get the drum off, inspect that cylinder closely, as you said your are troubleshooting a leak anyway, it might be better to just replace that cylinder. It is usually cheaper to do that than hone and rebuild them anymore and some people always do them in pairs, especially the fronts but it's up to you. __________________ Dan '77 Cutlass Supreme '46 2 door "The rocket 455.....it's a sledgehammer approach to a thumbtack world" LuxBlue of HAMB.

November 26th, 2006, 08:04 AM	#7 (permalink)
ozoneblue Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 503	Rear brakes If your unfamilar with the brake system parts tear the outher side down for refrence .Also when replaceing wheel cyl do both sides ,My experience has show me it will leak next

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November 22nd, 2006, 01:07 PM	#3 (permalink)
ztim Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: SC Posts: 275	What does the self adjuster look like? I tried a rawhide mallet on the backside of the cover but was afraid I bust something and then be able to get it back on.

November 22nd, 2006, 02:47 PM	#4 (permalink)
Oldsmaniac Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: NJ Posts: 686	Often rust builds up on drum where shoes dont ride. This ridge will prevent the drum from pulling past the shoes. Some backing plates and drums dont have an adjuster slot so you may not be able to loosen the shoe adjustment....if there is a slot sometimes the spring and adjuster lever will only allow the star wheel to push the shoes out unless a second tool is used to move adjuster lever off of spoked adjuster. Lastly if the trouble is a rust ring you can try and scrape it off with a screwdriver between the backing plate and drum....keep working at it and it will release.

November 25th, 2006, 02:00 PM	#6 (permalink)
Pfiffle Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 123	I agree. Hit it (the drum) with a hammer and alternate sides you are hitting. Don't "smash" it just Knock it and it will break free.

December 16th, 2006, 05:34 PM	#8 (permalink)
American Lead 2Blue 55 Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Nova Scotia, Canada Posts: 455	Is it the floating kind or the kind with the dust cover with the bolt under it?