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Pretty new here and have looked into the benefits of putting disc brakes on my 56 88 and would like to get some idea on what it might cost...front, rear maybe both? It'll be necessary for a shop to do it and I would imagine depending on which shop or who does the work there will be a wide range but I have to start somewhere and any ideas will be helpful..thanks a lot!
Welcome! Nice looking Super88 you have there. More pictures please. We like pictures.
As for the disc brake conversion, others will have to help you with costs. I still have the original drum power brake system on my '56 and it works just fine.
An optimized factory drum setup can be every bit as effective as an aftermarket disc swap (if not more effective) for all but the most severe driving conditions, without compromising the car's originality. Just my 0.02!
Maybe we should ask why he thinks that car needs disc brakes.
Because everyone and all the car articles say that drum brakes are not safe.
For a front kit, you're looking at about $600 in parts and probably $1000-1500 in labor. Depending on the kit and current wheel size, you may need to change them also.
Because everyone and all the car articles say that drum brakes are not safe.
For a front kit, you're looking at about $600 in parts and probably $1000-1500 in labor. Depending on the kit and current wheel size, you may need to change them also.
Disc are made more for high speed braking (heat), but being I was driving and racing with drums all the way around, when front disc brakes started coming out, I can tell you drums are fine. But, like all brakes, they are fine when they are working right. With a big heavy classic, if you are driving it on the street much it won't be that much and you will probably be paranoid you're going to get hit by a stupid driver who has disc brakes. I am not a purist, so I am not against putting disc brakes on that car.
Drum brakes will " lock up " the wheels just as easily as disc brakes will in a panic stop.
No advantage there.
The only advantage disk brakes will have is that they cool off faster.
This is only important if you're riding the brakes down a steep mountain.
Unless you live in a very mountainous area, just get the stock brakes fixed right and save your money for something else.
Give this guy a call http://discbrakemike.com/ , He has been doing this conversion parts for as long as I can remember and the price has always been the most reasonable.
AS far as do you need them, that's up to you, I don't and do not want them. My car has been on some of the steepest grades, the twistiest roads in California 11% with no issues, That is why you have more than one gear on your transmission. Find the one that hold you back and stay with it till you don't't need it for the condition you are in. Your call, do you have fading brakes now?... Tedd
I'd like to thank all of you for your perspectives on drum vs disc. This is my first time ever working on an old car if you don't count my first ever car when I was 16...that happened to also be a 1956 but it was a Bel Air. So now at 70 I've kind of come full circle. I've only had this 88 for a short while and bought it because it was all original including paint with no rust to speak of and it still had the clear vinyl on the seats and the interior was fantastic. It's actually in better shape than that 56 I bought in 1969. It's running and I'm driving it but it'll be awhile before I'm finished with it...on second thought that may never happen...and I'm ok with that too Next time I get it out I'll take some better pics.
First, no one will ever claim that drum brakes stop better than properly engineered and installed disc brakes. The problem is that most disc brake kits are NOT properly engineered, and most installations are even worse.
I'd like to thank all of you for your perspectives on drum vs disc. This is my first time ever working on an old car if you don't count my first ever car when I was 16...that happened to also be a 1956 but it was a Bel Air. So now at 70 I've kind of come full circle. I've only had this 88 for a short while and bought it because it was all original including paint with no rust to speak of and it still had the clear vinyl on the seats and the interior was fantastic. It's actually in better shape than that 56 I bought in 1969. It's running and I'm driving it but it'll be awhile before I'm finished with it...on second thought that may never happen...and I'm ok with that too Next time I get it out I'll take some better pics.
Keep in mind that these brakes are not self-adjusting.
You can judge the need for adjustment, by how far the pedal goes toward the floor before the brakes engage.
One of the reasons I was considering disc brakes was the way my brakes feel now. The pedal hardly moves at all...almost nothing...and it feels rock hard....what does that mean?? Anyway I've got an appointment with a shop whose owner and his chief mechanic have well over 100 years experience. He's an old race car owner and driver...I remember watching him race in the 70s.
Here's an interesting side note...while talking with him about my 56...he told me about a 1957 Olds he bought for $250 at a JUNKYARD. He took me to another building next door and I was amazed. He did a complete frame off restoration and this is the final result...it truly is a show stopper...but I'm not sure he's ever taken it to one.
Beautiful 57! That was a great year for Olds. One criticism though- what's up with that leaf on the floor?
Getting back to your car, it looks like you're in very good hands. As for the pedal feeling rock hard, my '56 developed the same problem two years ago. It felt rock hard and was binding. I had to double pump it. I pulled back the rubber boot and the small rubber gasket at the floorboard and stuck the nozzle of a silicone lube spray can in there and blasted it several times over the course of a few days. That stopped the problem for me and it's been fine ever since. I give it another squirt once a year. Just a thought. .
One of the weak areas of the braking systems in these cars is the treadle vac system, they go out about every 45-50 years, and that also is what they also feel like, hard pedal, no movement in the pedal. Check and see if you have vacuum at the treadle vac. Loss of vacuum at the carb or booster tank also will give you this problem...Tedd
By reading your description of your current system, you have approximately nothing. Disk or shoe you are going to spend some money. In the late 60's i worked in a chain store auto center that did a "complete" brake job for an outlandish price of $49.95. It included caliper measuring the drums to see if they were legal to be turned. Turn the drums and arc grind the new shoes to fit the larger drum. Rebuild all four wheel cylinders. repack the wheel bearings and new seals. Brake hoses were inspected and replaced if needed at an extra charge. The complete job made the car very similar to as it left the factory. I don't know where you can still find it at that price but I think you need a complete brake job. All new brake lines would be a good choice. With a good treadle vac you might be surprised with how your factory designed system works.
If everything is replaced, those brake systems work great. My 57 olds 4 wheel power drum Brakes but everything has been replaced or rebuilt and it works perfectly.
May 7th, 2022, 02:53 AM
I didn't realize how dangerous my '55 was with drum brakes. 
Next time I get it out I'll take some better pics.
