Colorado Olds

Could someone please describe for me the best way to adjust the brakes on Josh' '66 F85 (power four wheel drum)? We just got it back to driveable after going through the brakes and other items, and all seems good so far, but it does pull to the left upon braking.

Sorry if this question has recently been answered.

Thanks,
Jim

Colorado Olds

Any help on this topic?

Maybe you are all out working on your Oldsmobiles

I did try to search for this, with no results.

gearheads78

I am stuck at work waiting for 6 to get here so I will help.

The way I do it is adjust all the way out to lock up the drums. This will help center the shoes. Back off just enough that there is just very very slight drag. Basicly you don't even feel it but you still can barely hear the drums dragging on the shoes.

rocketraider

Best way is to use a brake adjustment gage. Looks kinda like a giant pair of calipers with sliding jaws that can measure inside and outside diameter. Measure the inside diameter of the drum with the internal diameter jaws. Then lock the tool in position and put the outside diameter set of jaws over the outside of the shoes at widest point. Adjust the shoes outward to contact them. The shoes will then be adjusted perfectly to the diameter of the drum. You can pick these up cheap off a tool trailer at swap meets. I've seen them at Advance Auto too, but about twice what you'll pay at the swap meet.

If you can't get the tool easy, gearhead's method works good.

Just making sure- you replaced all the hoses too? how about the steel lines? Sometimes a hose will collapse inside, not let fluid backflow to the master cylinder and cause a wheel to drag. We had a master cylinder on a 66 Starfire that had a blocked return port and made all 4 wheels lock up.

Colorado Olds

Thanks much for the replies and procedures.

Rocketraider: 'Just making sure- you replaced all the hoses too? how about the steel lines?' - Yes, we replaced all the soft lines, and most but not all the hard lines. Fluid seemed to flow free and clear during the bleeding process, so I think we are probably OK not having replaced ALL the hard lines. The only one we did not replace is the long one from the dist block back to the rear crossmember. Anyone think this might be a problem area?