I8AF85

I had very squishy brakes on my cutlass. It has drums all the round and I could hear a leak in the booster. I have replaced the booster and master cylinder with new ones and bleed the brakes correctly. Now the brakes seem to work better but the pedal is super hard to push and all the brake power is at the very end of the depression. I put the rubber boot on the booster- I read this might have been a mistake ? also the pedal seemed to change position as I adjusted the light switch forward. Does this mean my drums are bad ? Any advice would be apreciated. Im trying to break in a new motor and have a sore foot.

I8AF85

Did some checking into the whole deal and it looks like my push rod is too short in the booster. It states in the installation instructions that you can adjust these but mine is non adjustable. Has anyone heard of this ? I put a scew in there that was about 3/4 of and inch longer and tryed it and it seemed to brake quicker but was was still very hard to push. Seems if the push rod was 3/8 longer might be right. Does the adjustment length to the pedal matter much- I have been changing that around and doesnt seem to do anthing. Im thinking of taking booster back to advanced and trying a new one.

I8AF85

The new booster fixed it. Aparently wrong part in right box. Strange because this booster looks different to the other which looked like the original. Thanks for reading my thread

Willidog

There are two different size of rods for the peddle, it depends on your master cylinder as to which one you should use, long or short.

I8AF85

Now bleeding them is a problem ?? what is the best way- I think Ive tryed them all and it seems like air is still comming out of lines ?? can air be getting in somewhere and not leaking fluid anywhere ? which way do I turn the spiked adjustment wheel to make em hit harder ? thanks

joe_padavano

I like the way you answer your own questions. Maybe we should just wait a couple of days?

Seriously, did you bench bleed the M/C first? Checked all the hoses to ensure there are no internal delaminations that could cause blockage? I use a power vacuum bleeder and it's the best system I've ever tried for brake bleeding. It used to take me two or three tries to get all the air out. Now it only takes one try.

I8AF85

I did bleed mc first . I used a friends vac bleeder kit a few times on them with the hand pump thing - every time I bleed em they feel better and will lock up and hit good the first time I drive it - then the next day squishy agian. Im about too take it to a shop as its a real hassel not being able to stop. I just dont trust any mechs around here.