*&%$# rust!!!
#1
*&%$# rust!!!
Hey Guys,
Rust damage on a 1970 Cutlass Supreme coupe that needs attention. It's body shop time but it's going to be a bit before I can afford quality work. In the interim, what methods work to get rid of rust in certain areas other than cutting out the areas? Grinder and sander? Fenders have it around the wheel lips but I'm looking to replace the fenders as well as possibly have new quarters welded on but I'm noticing spots on the front of the hood by the headlight assembly, the rear tray between the vinyl top and the trunk lid as well as other areas. What can I do to halt the rust until it's time to go to the body shop?
Rust damage on a 1970 Cutlass Supreme coupe that needs attention. It's body shop time but it's going to be a bit before I can afford quality work. In the interim, what methods work to get rid of rust in certain areas other than cutting out the areas? Grinder and sander? Fenders have it around the wheel lips but I'm looking to replace the fenders as well as possibly have new quarters welded on but I'm noticing spots on the front of the hood by the headlight assembly, the rear tray between the vinyl top and the trunk lid as well as other areas. What can I do to halt the rust until it's time to go to the body shop?
#3
Keep it dry
keep it off the road in the winter
rust converter spray as sold at your farm or auto store or
I sprayed the really rusty '85 442 last year, after a minimal cleaning of the major flakes. Painted black rattle can Rustoleum [it was handy] over that. It is still black where the rust is this year. Didn't get any better, but it stopped the spread. And blended into the black car pretty well from 100 ft away. Can hardly see them cat sized holes.
keep it off the road in the winter
rust converter spray as sold at your farm or auto store or
I sprayed the really rusty '85 442 last year, after a minimal cleaning of the major flakes. Painted black rattle can Rustoleum [it was handy] over that. It is still black where the rust is this year. Didn't get any better, but it stopped the spread. And blended into the black car pretty well from 100 ft away. Can hardly see them cat sized holes.
#4
You will need grinders, cut off wheels, drills, pliers, body hammers. You will find out what you need as you just like most tradesmen. The best advice I can give some one is go to a junkyard and pick a fender that will need the type of work you will need to do practice on the 20 dollar fender then once you know you can get some decent results have at it. I did my 72 right as I started in the collision repair field so I had to learn as I went and I messed up and had to redo a few things here and there but being patient and taking my time paid off. As for stopping the rust clean the scale off and use chassis saver it's the same as por 15 but cheaper and been around just as long. rust never sleeps so unless you can get to it all you are just putting a band aid on it.
#5
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Worst part about rust is that once it starts it's darn hard to stop. It will creep along just from the moisture that's in the air. My 98 went to Olds heaven due to rust, even after 'quality repairs' with new rust free parts. IMO, once it starts; you just control it's advances the best you can unless you have huge $$$ to spend on the project.
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