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removing a door skin and reinstalling it?

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Old December 2nd, 2014, 12:10 PM
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removing a door skin and reinstalling it?

I was looking at my doors both the ones on the car and the replacements I purchased, now there is minor surface rust, and a few pin holes etc I was also thinking I would like to make sure of the door condition and get all the old sound deadening material out if there and replace it?

To do this I was considering taking off the skin, cleaning the entire inside, wire wheel etc and then reinstalling the old skin,

Anybody try this? I know if they made replacement skins you could just grind through the edges, but I am pretty sure I can peel up that edge without fubaring the whole skin, I would try it on a test door, that I was planning to use for patching stock.

In lieu of that what do most folks do to the inside frames of the door?
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Old December 2nd, 2014, 12:28 PM
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You will bend the edge of the door skin on the outside. Use a wide flat sheet metal pliers to bend the inner edge of the skin. Good luck with this and do experiment with a scrap door first.
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Old December 2nd, 2014, 12:52 PM
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I was thinking there used to be a tool like a pliers that grips the outside edge while sliding under the inside edge, I will experiment with a practice door first for sure Thank you..
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Old December 2nd, 2014, 01:09 PM
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To me, any door skin that needs to come off isn't worth putting back on. The repairs you mention I would do by cutting a line across the bottom of the door, about 4" up from the bottom, and removing that section. Replacing that part with a generic door bottom is fairly simple if you keep your weld heat minimal. That low on the door, there's not likely to be any difficult curves or body lines to deal with.

Remember that any door has to have drain holes at the lowest point.
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Old December 2nd, 2014, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Professur
To me, any door skin that needs to come off isn't worth putting back on. The repairs you mention I would do by cutting a line across the bottom of the door, about 4" up from the bottom, and removing that section. Replacing that part with a generic door bottom is fairly simple if you keep your weld heat minimal. That low on the door, there's not likely to be any difficult curves or body lines to deal with.

Remember that any door has to have drain holes at the lowest point.
prof, the door skin is perfect, I want to ensure there is no rust lurking in the inside of the shell, or any surface rust doesn't get any worse, that I can not get to, so basically opening the clam, cleaning it and resealing, it is a longevity thing, no matter how careful you are the door skin is a big piece of metal and welding it will cause minmal waves no matter what IMHO, If there was a repo door skin I would just replace it and have the inside shell sand blasted, perhaps I should have the doors dipped?
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Old December 2nd, 2014, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Eddie Hansen
prof, the door skin is perfect, I want to ensure there is no rust lurking in the inside of the shell, or any surface rust doesn't get any worse, that I can not get to, so basically opening the clam, cleaning it and resealing, it is a longevity thing, no matter how careful you are the door skin is a big piece of metal and welding it will cause minmal waves no matter what IMHO, If there was a repo door skin I would just replace it and have the inside shell sand blasted, perhaps I should have the doors dipped?
IMO, if you plan to keep the car a very long time, have the doors dipped. Easiest and fastest, with probably best overall result. If not, use Por 15 on the interior of the door after cleaning with a wire brush. You can actually get to most of the areas thru the acces points.
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Old December 2nd, 2014, 03:14 PM
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Thanks randy, maybe I am just paranoid, lol rusts we hates it says gollum the bodyman lol
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Old December 2nd, 2014, 04:15 PM
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Guys :
I was wondering the same thing about my trunk lid and door edges, I had them blasted clean and found no rust thru. I bought a gallon of POR15, put some in a large dia syringe and squirted it all around the edges thru the access holes and flipped them around till it flowed into the seams and leaked out slightly, hopefully this will help it last.
Thanks, Ron
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Old December 2nd, 2014, 04:52 PM
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did the right thing

Ron I think that was a very good solution, I was worried about what I cant see , the two edges that meet, a blaster can only get what isnt covered , so shooting por15 in there was a good thing
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Old December 2nd, 2014, 05:47 PM
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Using POR 15 inside the door I believe will accomplish your goal. POR 15 has a thinning solution called SOLVENT that you can use to spray it with. I would not use a good spray gun, but maybe a cheapo from Harbor Freight. STARTINGLINE has some really small guns very inexpensive that would be great to spray with.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Mini-HVL...efaultDomain_0
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Old December 2nd, 2014, 06:18 PM
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thanks gary

Thank you Gary the solvent for por 15 is naptha I believe, just saying as it is waaaayyy cheaper to buy a can from home depot, good idea to spray it, thank you
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Old December 2nd, 2014, 07:08 PM
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A perfect door skin I would not remove. Doing so would stretch the metal and the reinstall fit may not go well and require metal shrinking. This is coming from a non body guy, me, and is just my opinion. If any rot thru happens it is the very bottom of the door or at the point where outer skin attaches to inner and there are tiny spaces where dirt collects and doesnt dry right away causing rot.
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Old December 3rd, 2014, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Oldsmaniac
A perfect door skin I would not remove.
^^^ THIS!

You run a far greater risk of damaging the door skin that you do of rust, especially if you treat the inside.
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Old December 3rd, 2014, 08:38 AM
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Thank You..

Joe , Thanks for the input, I think I will just leave it on the frame and do the best I can with all in place..

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