removing a door skin and reinstalling it?
#1
removing a door skin and reinstalling it?
I was looking at my doors both the ones on the car and the replacements I purchased, now there is minor surface rust, and a few pin holes etc I was also thinking I would like to make sure of the door condition and get all the old sound deadening material out if there and replace it?
To do this I was considering taking off the skin, cleaning the entire inside, wire wheel etc and then reinstalling the old skin,
Anybody try this? I know if they made replacement skins you could just grind through the edges, but I am pretty sure I can peel up that edge without fubaring the whole skin, I would try it on a test door, that I was planning to use for patching stock.
In lieu of that what do most folks do to the inside frames of the door?
To do this I was considering taking off the skin, cleaning the entire inside, wire wheel etc and then reinstalling the old skin,
Anybody try this? I know if they made replacement skins you could just grind through the edges, but I am pretty sure I can peel up that edge without fubaring the whole skin, I would try it on a test door, that I was planning to use for patching stock.
In lieu of that what do most folks do to the inside frames of the door?
#2
You will bend the edge of the door skin on the outside. Use a wide flat sheet metal pliers to bend the inner edge of the skin. Good luck with this and do experiment with a scrap door first.
#3
I was thinking there used to be a tool like a pliers that grips the outside edge while sliding under the inside edge, I will experiment with a practice door first for sure Thank you..
#4
To me, any door skin that needs to come off isn't worth putting back on. The repairs you mention I would do by cutting a line across the bottom of the door, about 4" up from the bottom, and removing that section. Replacing that part with a generic door bottom is fairly simple if you keep your weld heat minimal. That low on the door, there's not likely to be any difficult curves or body lines to deal with.
Remember that any door has to have drain holes at the lowest point.
Remember that any door has to have drain holes at the lowest point.
#5
To me, any door skin that needs to come off isn't worth putting back on. The repairs you mention I would do by cutting a line across the bottom of the door, about 4" up from the bottom, and removing that section. Replacing that part with a generic door bottom is fairly simple if you keep your weld heat minimal. That low on the door, there's not likely to be any difficult curves or body lines to deal with.
Remember that any door has to have drain holes at the lowest point.
Remember that any door has to have drain holes at the lowest point.
#6
prof, the door skin is perfect, I want to ensure there is no rust lurking in the inside of the shell, or any surface rust doesn't get any worse, that I can not get to, so basically opening the clam, cleaning it and resealing, it is a longevity thing, no matter how careful you are the door skin is a big piece of metal and welding it will cause minmal waves no matter what IMHO, If there was a repo door skin I would just replace it and have the inside shell sand blasted, perhaps I should have the doors dipped?
#8
Guys :
I was wondering the same thing about my trunk lid and door edges, I had them blasted clean and found no rust thru. I bought a gallon of POR15, put some in a large dia syringe and squirted it all around the edges thru the access holes and flipped them around till it flowed into the seams and leaked out slightly, hopefully this will help it last.
Thanks, Ron
I was wondering the same thing about my trunk lid and door edges, I had them blasted clean and found no rust thru. I bought a gallon of POR15, put some in a large dia syringe and squirted it all around the edges thru the access holes and flipped them around till it flowed into the seams and leaked out slightly, hopefully this will help it last.
Thanks, Ron
#9
did the right thing
Ron I think that was a very good solution, I was worried about what I cant see , the two edges that meet, a blaster can only get what isnt covered , so shooting por15 in there was a good thing
#10
Using POR 15 inside the door I believe will accomplish your goal. POR 15 has a thinning solution called SOLVENT that you can use to spray it with. I would not use a good spray gun, but maybe a cheapo from Harbor Freight. STARTINGLINE has some really small guns very inexpensive that would be great to spray with.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Mini-HVL...efaultDomain_0
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Mini-HVL...efaultDomain_0
#11
thanks gary
Thank you Gary the solvent for por 15 is naptha I believe, just saying as it is waaaayyy cheaper to buy a can from home depot, good idea to spray it, thank you
#12
A perfect door skin I would not remove. Doing so would stretch the metal and the reinstall fit may not go well and require metal shrinking. This is coming from a non body guy, me, and is just my opinion. If any rot thru happens it is the very bottom of the door or at the point where outer skin attaches to inner and there are tiny spaces where dirt collects and doesnt dry right away causing rot.
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May 19th, 2014 05:12 AM