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Old September 8th, 2015, 08:46 AM
  #1  
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door alignment

hey guys can someone please explain how to adjust the door on a 71 cutlass ?
the door that was on the car fit nice but had a big dent in it ,so i replaced with another door years ago and when i had a cheap paint job done i asked them to adjust it and they never did and i just put it out of mine ,then door needs to come back a little bit ,anyone have pics on how to adjust the door? any help would be great thank you in advance ..
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Old September 8th, 2015, 09:37 AM
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Can you take a pic farther away facing the side of the car and show the door with both the front fender gap and the rear of the door gap?
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Old September 8th, 2015, 10:09 AM
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The specs for alignment are in the Assembly manual. That said door alignment is an art. The gaps that you have on the back are typically what the factory actually delivered. The front gas do look bad, but the ridge line in the fender to door lines up. You sure it's not a fender issue more than a door one? Is the fender original or a repop? The way the fender edge is out suggests that to me.
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Old September 9th, 2015, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
Can you take a pic farther away facing the side of the car and show the door with both the front fender gap and the rear of the door gap?
thanks for looking into it for me , its not off by much maybe 1/4 inch maybe
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Old September 9th, 2015, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Allan R
The specs for alignment are in the Assembly manual. That said door alignment is an art. The gaps that you have on the back are typically what the factory actually delivered. The front gas do look bad, but the ridge line in the fender to door lines up. You sure it's not a fender issue more than a door one? Is the fender original or a repop? The way the fender edge is out suggests that to me.
yeah dont have an assembly manual , the door that was on it fit like it should , i unbolted it and botled this one one and could never really get it to slide backwards , it only has to go back a little bit and i know the door is off because its just catching the end of the striker ...

pics of pass side ,
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Old September 9th, 2015, 06:43 AM
  #6  
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GM used shims to align body panels and doors. Shimming the front will push the door rearward.
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Old September 9th, 2015, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by juiced71
the door that was on it fit like it should
Did you notice (as Eric says about shims) whether the original door had any between the door and hinge plate?
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Old September 9th, 2015, 02:01 PM
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It's always recommended to start panel adjustments at the rear and go forward. I had to move my passenger door back slightly because the fender gap was almost non existent. I used a paint stick as the guide to determine the gap to the quarter panel. First I removed the striker so I have a static starting point with the door gap and depth. Then I used a jack under the door with a towel-wrapped 2x4 to support the weight of the door. I marked the original position of the hinge on the cowl, slightly loosened the upper hinge from the body and then lowered the jack until the hinge moved back slightly from the original mark. Then I snugged the bolts on the top hinge, marked the lower hinge, slightly loosened the lower hinge bolts and then slightly raised the jack to move the lower hinge back. It took several tries to get the gap as I wanted it, so patience is a virtue. You also need to be aware of the lower gap at the rocker panel to keep the gap level with the rocker panel.
You may also consider a shim under the core support at the bushing to slightly raise the front edge of the fender which will close the gap at the rear of the fender at the door. From my experience, I wouldn't recommend more that 1/16 to 1/8. Again, small adjustments show large improvements. The shim I placed under the core support closed the gap at the top of the fender to an acceptable distance.
Others may have different methods... just saying this was my solution.

Last edited by 1968_Post; September 9th, 2015 at 02:15 PM.
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Old September 9th, 2015, 02:19 PM
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Who put the antenna base on the RF fender?
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Old September 9th, 2015, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Allan R
Who put the antenna base on the RF fender?
That's a good question...

Also, how evenly spaced is the fender to hood gap from front to rear? Until Allen drew my attention to the antenna, I didn't notice the fender seems to be out past the front edge of the door. How far out is the fender shimmed under the door? How is the top rear fender mounting bolt related to the bolt hole? Is there a shim between the fender and cowl?

I attached a chart I created from the assembly manual with the dimensions of the gaps.
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Old September 9th, 2015, 05:06 PM
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The fender can be shimmed out quite a bit on that rear fender mounting bolt. Mine has a stack of about 5 shims there to put it flush with the door. That might also change the fender/hood gaps. Proceed with caution.

BTW, your rear cowl stainless is not on all the way. Shouldn't be that little gap between the stainless and the hood ridge. Right side wiper looks like it's not parked in the right place either. Should be lower and out of sight.
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Old September 10th, 2015, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Allan R
Did you notice (as Eric says about shims) whether the original door had any between the door and hinge plate?
i dont remember anything falling out when i took the door off , i just took unbolted the door from the hinge didnt mess with the hinge that was bolted to the car body
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Old September 10th, 2015, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 1968_Post
It's always recommended to start panel adjustments at the rear and go forward. I had to move my passenger door back slightly because the fender gap was almost non existent. I used a paint stick as the guide to determine the gap to the quarter panel. First I removed the striker so I have a static starting point with the door gap and depth. Then I used a jack under the door with a towel-wrapped 2x4 to support the weight of the door. I marked the original position of the hinge on the cowl, slightly loosened the upper hinge from the body and then lowered the jack until the hinge moved back slightly from the original mark. Then I snugged the bolts on the top hinge, marked the lower hinge, slightly loosened the lower hinge bolts and then slightly raised the jack to move the lower hinge back. It took several tries to get the gap as I wanted it, so patience is a virtue. You also need to be aware of the lower gap at the rocker panel to keep the gap level with the rocker panel.
You may also consider a shim under the core support at the bushing to slightly raise the front edge of the fender which will close the gap at the rear of the fender at the door. From my experience, I wouldn't recommend more that 1/16 to 1/8. Again, small adjustments show large improvements. The shim I placed under the core support closed the gap at the top of the fender to an acceptable distance.
Others may have different methods... just saying this was my solution.
thank you for taking the time to explain it to me, im far from a body person and to be honest if it was just a tad closer where it wasn't catching on the door striker i prolly wouldnt be worrying about it , i will look into the shims thank you again for the reply
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Old September 10th, 2015, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Allan R
Who put the antenna base on the RF fender?
got me bought the car for 200 bucks had it on there
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Old September 10th, 2015, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 1968_Post
That's a good question...

Also, how evenly spaced is the fender to hood gap from front to rear? Until Allen drew my attention to the antenna, I didn't notice the fender seems to be out past the front edge of the door. How far out is the fender shimmed under the door? How is the top rear fender mounting bolt related to the bolt hole? Is there a shim between the fender and cowl?

I attached a chart I created from the assembly manual with the dimensions of the gaps.
yeah im sure the hood isnt perfect as its been off a few times thanks for noticing LOL LOL
yeah the fender is out a little from the door i just thought it was due to the door not being adjust right , all these problems started when i replaced the door
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Old September 10th, 2015, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Allan R
The fender can be shimmed out quite a bit on that rear fender mounting bolt. Mine has a stack of about 5 shims there to put it flush with the door. That might also change the fender/hood gaps. Proceed with caution.

BTW, your rear cowl stainless is not on all the way. Shouldn't be that little gap between the stainless and the hood ridge. Right side wiper looks like it's not parked in the right place either. Should be lower and out of sight.
i will look into the cow thing never messed with it , now the wiper arm well what happened there was the part that throws the arm straight broke so to get it to work had to lower that arm down a little , at the time there wasn't too many wiper arm assembly around , i dont drive the car often i just starting taken it out here and again after 15 years , i bought the car 20 years ago i guess for 200 bucks , the olds motor went and in went a 400 chevy oh boy gona get hell for that lmfao i got the motor cheap and went with it , and its only a frame mount change and few other things to put it back if it ever comes.. needs interior , when i bought it soon after 3 blessed kids came along lol got a cheap 300 dollar paint job so i could at least get the collectors insurance on it . wish i had some of the talent of some of these members i dont so i just gotta ask for help from whos been there and done that so to speak ... or need some help from Grover Cleveland ! Hahaha!
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