Can't find rear 1/4 patch panels, so....
#1
Can't find rear 1/4 patch panels, so....
Hi guys,
I've been looking online for rear quarter patch panels for my 71 Cutlass Supreme but can't find anything in the way of a patch. I have some deep rust just behind the rear wheel mud flaps on both sides of the car. It's an awkward area and goes all the way to the wheel well so i don't think I can form sheet metal to match (not me, anyway). So here's what I was thinking (stay with me on this, I'm a sculptor by trade):
1.Fill the rust holes with clay and sculpt to match the contours.
2.Take a silicone and plaster mold of the area.
3. Cut out the rusted area (and a little beyond) and use flanging pliers to flange the remaining metal (creating a surface on which to join).
4. Using fiberglass cloth and epoxy, cast patch panels using the molds for an exact match.
5. Cut/grind/saw patch until it fits the metal flange.
6. Make sure there is plenty of clean metal for the joint.
7. Attach the patch panel using the same epoxy that was used to make the cast, building up the surface just a little.
8. Sand and prime.
I've spoken with a couple of epoxy manufacturers and they claim to have epoxies with the same expansion coefficient as sheet metal so cracking and separating shouldn't be a problem....but that will remain to be seen.
I sorta feel that by using this method, I'm eliminating a problem area for rust.
Thoughts?
I've been looking online for rear quarter patch panels for my 71 Cutlass Supreme but can't find anything in the way of a patch. I have some deep rust just behind the rear wheel mud flaps on both sides of the car. It's an awkward area and goes all the way to the wheel well so i don't think I can form sheet metal to match (not me, anyway). So here's what I was thinking (stay with me on this, I'm a sculptor by trade):
1.Fill the rust holes with clay and sculpt to match the contours.
2.Take a silicone and plaster mold of the area.
3. Cut out the rusted area (and a little beyond) and use flanging pliers to flange the remaining metal (creating a surface on which to join).
4. Using fiberglass cloth and epoxy, cast patch panels using the molds for an exact match.
5. Cut/grind/saw patch until it fits the metal flange.
6. Make sure there is plenty of clean metal for the joint.
7. Attach the patch panel using the same epoxy that was used to make the cast, building up the surface just a little.
8. Sand and prime.
I've spoken with a couple of epoxy manufacturers and they claim to have epoxies with the same expansion coefficient as sheet metal so cracking and separating shouldn't be a problem....but that will remain to be seen.
I sorta feel that by using this method, I'm eliminating a problem area for rust.
Thoughts?
Last edited by Macadoo; August 25th, 2013 at 09:55 AM.
#8
If you havn't already examined the trouble area, you might need a trunk drop or outer wheelhouse..
I thought i needed a small patch for my cutlass. I ended up tearing out the quarter panel and doing it right the first time with trunk drops and outer wheelhouses..
I thought i needed a small patch for my cutlass. I ended up tearing out the quarter panel and doing it right the first time with trunk drops and outer wheelhouses..
#9
I'll admit, I don't know what a trunk drop is. I'm also not sure the depth of examination you're referring to. I'm assuming you mean interior of the quarter as well as exterior. I'm more of a motor guy. Body work was never my thing but I'm willing to learn. Is there an exploded view of the body I can find (or purchase) online?
FWIW, the trunk and floor pans look immaculate. The trunk (under the rotting cloth) still has the gray paint with white paint splatter texture and no rust.
I thought about talking to a body shop but I'll have to get to the motor and breaks before I drive it very far.
FWIW, the trunk and floor pans look immaculate. The trunk (under the rotting cloth) still has the gray paint with white paint splatter texture and no rust.
I thought about talking to a body shop but I'll have to get to the motor and breaks before I drive it very far.
Last edited by Macadoo; August 26th, 2013 at 04:26 PM.
#11
What Joe means by partial quarters, is the outer skin. It does not wrap into the door jamb and does not include the sail panel to the factory weld near the roof and also the trunk. Basicly, it's a 80-90% full quarter replacement piece. Most likely with deep rust behind the rear wheels, the trunk drop offs (2 panels that drop below the trunk floor to attach to the bottom of the quarter panel) and possibly the outer wheel houses , (outer wheel well that attaches to the quarter) will need to be replaced. Also, most likely the quarter panel skin will have rust further than you can tell at this point.
I fiberglass fix will last for a while, but the rust will eventually rear it's ugly head in the near future again around that area. I would fix it right the first time rather than doing the job twice at a later date with more expense. A lot of rust comes from the inside out and cannot be seen until you get in to it.
I fiberglass fix will last for a while, but the rust will eventually rear it's ugly head in the near future again around that area. I would fix it right the first time rather than doing the job twice at a later date with more expense. A lot of rust comes from the inside out and cannot be seen until you get in to it.
Last edited by ziff396; August 26th, 2013 at 04:50 PM.
#12
Yes, I've found a couple of dealers for the skins, and a place that sells full quarters. I'll have some time this weekend (yeah, I know it's only Monday, ugh) to take a good look at the interior. Are the trunk drops something that can be seen without disassembly, maybe from underneath the car?
I guess there's no way to be 100% sure you've gotten rid of all the rust short of replacing the entire quarter. Is replacement sheet metal the same quality and gauge as the original? I looked at a "Primed and ready to paint with all new metal" camaro but the hood seemed like it was made out of furnace duct. Very flimsy.
I guess there's no way to be 100% sure you've gotten rid of all the rust short of replacing the entire quarter. Is replacement sheet metal the same quality and gauge as the original? I looked at a "Primed and ready to paint with all new metal" camaro but the hood seemed like it was made out of furnace duct. Very flimsy.
#14
Hi guys,
I've been looking online for rear quarter patch panels for my 71 Cutlass Supreme but can't find anything in the way of a patch. I have some deep rust just behind the rear wheel mud flaps on both sides of the car. It's an awkward area and goes all the way to the wheel well so i don't think I can form sheet metal to match (not me, anyway). So here's what I was thinking (stay with me on this, I'm a sculptor by trade):
1.Fill the rust holes with clay and sculpt to match the contours.
2.Take a silicone and plaster mold of the area.
3. Cut out the rusted area (and a little beyond) and use flanging pliers to flange the remaining metal (creating a surface on which to join).
4. Using fiberglass cloth and epoxy, cast patch panels using the molds for an exact match.
5. Cut/grind/saw patch until it fits the metal flange.
6. Make sure there is plenty of clean metal for the joint.
7. Attach the patch panel using the same epoxy that was used to make the cast, building up the surface just a little.
8. Sand and prime.
I've spoken with a couple of epoxy manufacturers and they claim to have epoxies with the same expansion coefficient as sheet metal so cracking and separating shouldn't be a problem....but that will remain to be seen.
I sorta feel that by using this method, I'm eliminating a problem area for rust.
Thoughts?
I've been looking online for rear quarter patch panels for my 71 Cutlass Supreme but can't find anything in the way of a patch. I have some deep rust just behind the rear wheel mud flaps on both sides of the car. It's an awkward area and goes all the way to the wheel well so i don't think I can form sheet metal to match (not me, anyway). So here's what I was thinking (stay with me on this, I'm a sculptor by trade):
1.Fill the rust holes with clay and sculpt to match the contours.
2.Take a silicone and plaster mold of the area.
3. Cut out the rusted area (and a little beyond) and use flanging pliers to flange the remaining metal (creating a surface on which to join).
4. Using fiberglass cloth and epoxy, cast patch panels using the molds for an exact match.
5. Cut/grind/saw patch until it fits the metal flange.
6. Make sure there is plenty of clean metal for the joint.
7. Attach the patch panel using the same epoxy that was used to make the cast, building up the surface just a little.
8. Sand and prime.
I've spoken with a couple of epoxy manufacturers and they claim to have epoxies with the same expansion coefficient as sheet metal so cracking and separating shouldn't be a problem....but that will remain to be seen.
I sorta feel that by using this method, I'm eliminating a problem area for rust.
Thoughts?
Please, look up the local hotrod shop and ask to talk to their sheet metal guy. You're talking half a week's work to end up with something that's still done wrong. A good sheet metal guy can produce the part you need (if he can't just order it from his own sources) in a couple of hours at most, and you'll have done it right. It will probably even cost less than all the supplies you've use up building your bucks.
I'm the first guy to always want to do it myself, and Lord knows, I've reached for the fibreglass a time or two ... before I learned to weld. But this isn't a rusted out 10 year old Honda civic. But it definitely sounds like you're the goto guy to talk with for the folks here that need plastic and fibreglass filler pieces and interior panels. All of us with big pointy composite noses on the front might just be beating down your door.
#15
Lol, Professur, I don't know about that. I know how to reproduce existing stuff but that's about it....when it comes to cars anyway.
I'll talk to the body shop in town. Maybe they can make a patch. But again, I'm not sure yet if that's all I need.
I suppose what I need to know right now is; should I be in a hurry to take care of this rust. The car is in my studio, out of the weather, until I can get the engine and brakes repaired.
I'll talk to the body shop in town. Maybe they can make a patch. But again, I'm not sure yet if that's all I need.
I suppose what I need to know right now is; should I be in a hurry to take care of this rust. The car is in my studio, out of the weather, until I can get the engine and brakes repaired.
#16
Macadoo, Love your threads. I've looked at them all. I got interested in your car story and how you bought it, The cobbled up fuel pumps,etc. But about this body work stuff... Have you heard of the dreaded MAW phenomenon? That is "might as well do this while I am doing that". Ask anyone who has done a complete restoration, lots of times it all starts but fixing a little rust. So be careful. If you can enjoy it as it is, do that. If you can see some rust I can almost guarantee you there is a lot more under that.
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