1968 Convertible 442 Quarter panel estimates
February 26th, 2014, 06:33 PM
#1
Runner
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ballwin, MO
Posts: 1,714
1968 Convertible 442 Quarter panel estimates
1968 has always been my favorite year for the Cutlass/442s and I've always kept my eye open for one that would be a good project and a decent price. I found one that I haven't been able to check out yet, but the owner has seemed to be very honest and realistic with his over the phone description. He says there is rust. And in his opinion both the rear quarter panels will need to be replaced and fender wells. I'm going to check out the car in person tomorrow, but I wanted to go ahead and get more information from this forum on how much are quarter panels for a 68 442 (convertible) usually? Are they easy to replace? What would getting them replaced generally cost.
This could be the car I've been looking for, however, I want to make sure I'm not biting off more then I can chew (or my wallet can handle) and making a bad mistake.
Below is an example of what one of the front fenders looks like (car has obviously had a paint job)
Any input and opinions on this is greatly appreciated.
PcTbAtD.jpg
Thanks
This could be the car I've been looking for, however, I want to make sure I'm not biting off more then I can chew (or my wallet can handle) and making a bad mistake.
Below is an example of what one of the front fenders looks like (car has obviously had a paint job)
Any input and opinions on this is greatly appreciated.
PcTbAtD.jpg
Thanks
February 26th, 2014, 06:44 PM
#2
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
68/69 use the same fenders and quarters so donor parts from either are compatible. There is a fair amount of sheet metal for the fender patches available. No one makes full quarter panel replacements AFAIK but there are plenty of quarter skins produced now for 68/69. The sheet metal for the trunk/drop downs and inner/outer fender liners is also reproduced.
If the sheet metal isn't in great condition I'd also look carefully at the typical rust zones on the cowl, parcel shelf and the frame.
Hope it turns out to be minor and your repairs are minimal.
Note: the V36 stripe is supposed to be centered in the bottom of the fender.
If the sheet metal isn't in great condition I'd also look carefully at the typical rust zones on the cowl, parcel shelf and the frame.
Hope it turns out to be minor and your repairs are minimal.
Note: the V36 stripe is supposed to be centered in the bottom of the fender.
February 26th, 2014, 06:52 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
It never, ever gets BETTER after you dig in to see what's under the paint. Have the car inspected IN PERSON by an independent 3rd party if you can't do it yourself. Base of windshield, all the frame, the floor, the floor cross pieces, the rear panel, the trunk floor, the body mounts, there's a LOT that can go wrong. All very time con$uming to fix even if you are doing the work yourself.
February 26th, 2014, 06:56 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 1,393
68/69 use the same fenders and quarters so donor parts from either are compatible. There is a fair amount of sheet metal for the fender patches available. No one makes full quarter panel replacements AFAIK but there are plenty of quarter skins produced now for 68/69. The
68-69 quarters are not the same, however they can be altered in the tail light area. End of the quarter for 69 is fitted for a taillight housing.
68-69 fenders will not directly interchange due to different hood hinge mounting. 68 has 2 hood hinge to fender mounting bolts while 69 has 3 bolt mounting. There is a service replacement fender with a multiple-choice 5 bolt hole provision which accepts either hinge.
Henry
February 26th, 2014, 07:10 PM
#6
Runner
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ballwin, MO
Posts: 1,714
Thanks for all the input thus far. I'll definitely check out the common rust places in detail tomorrow. Where do most of you draw the line? If everything looks good except the panels, is that still "decent"?
Its just tough since a 68 442 convertible would really be my "dream car". And since this one in its condition is in my price range, its hard to pass up. I'd love to have this car that me and my two boys can eventually build up and maintain (they are tiny so I got time). But of course I don't want to let emotions get the best of me.
Its just tough since a 68 442 convertible would really be my "dream car". And since this one in its condition is in my price range, its hard to pass up. I'd love to have this car that me and my two boys can eventually build up and maintain (they are tiny so I got time). But of course I don't want to let emotions get the best of me.
Last edited by Joffroi; February 26th, 2014 at 07:23 PM.
February 26th, 2014, 07:24 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 492
I'd expect to spend twenty-five hundred, but if it's in the quarters it is probably in the bottom of the fenders and maybe the bottoms of the doors. I'd also look on the dash behind the glass because that will be a real treat to repair. Some good advice came up earlier as far as having the frame checked etc. - Steven
February 26th, 2014, 08:38 PM
#9
Gary
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Houston,Tx
Posts: 1,202
I just recently bought a 68 442 convertible. I just ordered the right quarter skin and outer wheel housing and the right fender for it. I ordered them from the Parts Place and the cost was about 800.00 without the shipping. You really won't know how much rust there is until the paint is stripped. But for sure if there is rust in the quarters, the outer wheel well is going to most likely be rusted as well. I wont have to replace the majority of quarter panel. But what you really want to look at is the condition of the floors and trunk which are much harder to replace in my opinion. 2500 for a 442 convertible is very reasonable price to replace a quarter panel but I really cant say what labor cost would be. I do my own body work.
Last edited by Gary's 2 442-S; February 26th, 2014 at 08:41 PM.
February 26th, 2014, 08:44 PM
#10
Gary
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Houston,Tx
Posts: 1,202
Here is a really good thread on a 69 442 which is similar
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...n-project.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...n-project.html
February 26th, 2014, 10:54 PM
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,665
Gary,
Thanks for linking my thread on the 69 conv restoration which will show how bad rust can get.
Joffroi,
I would make sure you look at that car VERY carefully or take a good, make that very good, body man with you. I don't like the look of the fender, door and frame from what I can see. The fender will need more than a patch panel as the support brace is obviously rotted since the fender fits so poorly. The body line on the door gives me the impression there was rust in the lower door corner at one time and the frame looks to have heavy rust. Always assume that there will be a lot more rust once someone starts to dig into the repairs. If the car has significant rust, then you can expect to spend a lot of money for the repairs. The 69 I restored didn't look to bad at first glance but it had a lot of rust someone else had attempted to repair/cover up and it was done poorly.
To be clear, there are no replacement quarter panels and rear wheelhouses for 68/69 convertibles. All that is available is hardtop parts which are not quite the same. Pieces from the wheelhouses can be used to rebuild a conv part as long as the upper of the original wheelhouse is good. Otherwise the new HT piece will need modifying to work. The HT quarters also need to be cut down to work and to be clear, the area above the wheel flare on a conv is different that a HT panel so work needs to be done to flatten out the area above the flare to make the conv repair appear more stock looking. If the outer rear wheelhouses are rotted, I'd bet the inners are bad too.
In the end, the cost to pay someone to do a lot of rust repair could be more than what you would pay for a much nicer car from the beginning.
Take a magnet with you and find out how much filler is in the car that may be covering rust someone else attempted to repair previously. Get pictures and post them here if you want. Look up inside the deck lid from the underside to see if the back of it was repaired before. Look at the bottoms of the doors too. A paint job can hide a multitude of problems so assume what you see on the surface is not the full story.
I don't want to discourage you from this car but be very cautious unless you are a skilled body man and can do a lot of this work yourself. if you have to pay for body work and the car is loaded with rust, it could cost more to make the car right, including mechanical repairs, than what the car could be worth in the end.
Brian
Thanks for linking my thread on the 69 conv restoration which will show how bad rust can get.
Joffroi,
I would make sure you look at that car VERY carefully or take a good, make that very good, body man with you. I don't like the look of the fender, door and frame from what I can see. The fender will need more than a patch panel as the support brace is obviously rotted since the fender fits so poorly. The body line on the door gives me the impression there was rust in the lower door corner at one time and the frame looks to have heavy rust. Always assume that there will be a lot more rust once someone starts to dig into the repairs. If the car has significant rust, then you can expect to spend a lot of money for the repairs. The 69 I restored didn't look to bad at first glance but it had a lot of rust someone else had attempted to repair/cover up and it was done poorly.
To be clear, there are no replacement quarter panels and rear wheelhouses for 68/69 convertibles. All that is available is hardtop parts which are not quite the same. Pieces from the wheelhouses can be used to rebuild a conv part as long as the upper of the original wheelhouse is good. Otherwise the new HT piece will need modifying to work. The HT quarters also need to be cut down to work and to be clear, the area above the wheel flare on a conv is different that a HT panel so work needs to be done to flatten out the area above the flare to make the conv repair appear more stock looking. If the outer rear wheelhouses are rotted, I'd bet the inners are bad too.
In the end, the cost to pay someone to do a lot of rust repair could be more than what you would pay for a much nicer car from the beginning.
Take a magnet with you and find out how much filler is in the car that may be covering rust someone else attempted to repair previously. Get pictures and post them here if you want. Look up inside the deck lid from the underside to see if the back of it was repaired before. Look at the bottoms of the doors too. A paint job can hide a multitude of problems so assume what you see on the surface is not the full story.
I don't want to discourage you from this car but be very cautious unless you are a skilled body man and can do a lot of this work yourself. if you have to pay for body work and the car is loaded with rust, it could cost more to make the car right, including mechanical repairs, than what the car could be worth in the end.
Brian
February 27th, 2014, 02:54 AM
#12
Gary,
Thanks for linking my thread on the 69 conv restoration which will show how bad rust can get.
Joffroi,
I would make sure you look at that car VERY carefully or take a good, make that very good, body man with you. I don't like the look of the fender, door and frame from what I can see. The fender will need more than a patch panel as the support brace is obviously rotted since the fender fits so poorly. The body line on the door gives me the impression there was rust in the lower door corner at one time and the frame looks to have heavy rust. Always assume that there will be a lot more rust once someone starts to dig into the repairs. If the car has significant rust, then you can expect to spend a lot of money for the repairs. The 69 I restored didn't look to bad at first glance but it had a lot of rust someone else had attempted to repair/cover up and it was done poorly.
To be clear, there are no replacement quarter panels and rear wheelhouses for 68/69 convertibles. All that is available is hardtop parts which are not quite the same. Pieces from the wheelhouses can be used to rebuild a conv part as long as the upper of the original wheelhouse is good. Otherwise the new HT piece will need modifying to work. The HT quarters also need to be cut down to work and to be clear, the area above the wheel flare on a conv is different that a HT panel so work needs to be done to flatten out the area above the flare to make the conv repair appear more stock looking. If the outer rear wheelhouses are rotted, I'd bet the inners are bad too.
In the end, the cost to pay someone to do a lot of rust repair could be more than what you would pay for a much nicer car from the beginning.
Take a magnet with you and find out how much filler is in the car that may be covering rust someone else attempted to repair previously. Get pictures and post them here if you want. Look up inside the deck lid from the underside to see if the back of it was repaired before. Look at the bottoms of the doors too. A paint job can hide a multitude of problems so assume what you see on the surface is not the full story.
I don't want to discourage you from this car but be very cautious unless you are a skilled body man and can do a lot of this work yourself. if you have to pay for body work and the car is loaded with rust, it could cost more to make the car right, including mechanical repairs, than what the car could be worth in the end.
Brian
Thanks for linking my thread on the 69 conv restoration which will show how bad rust can get.
Joffroi,
I would make sure you look at that car VERY carefully or take a good, make that very good, body man with you. I don't like the look of the fender, door and frame from what I can see. The fender will need more than a patch panel as the support brace is obviously rotted since the fender fits so poorly. The body line on the door gives me the impression there was rust in the lower door corner at one time and the frame looks to have heavy rust. Always assume that there will be a lot more rust once someone starts to dig into the repairs. If the car has significant rust, then you can expect to spend a lot of money for the repairs. The 69 I restored didn't look to bad at first glance but it had a lot of rust someone else had attempted to repair/cover up and it was done poorly.
To be clear, there are no replacement quarter panels and rear wheelhouses for 68/69 convertibles. All that is available is hardtop parts which are not quite the same. Pieces from the wheelhouses can be used to rebuild a conv part as long as the upper of the original wheelhouse is good. Otherwise the new HT piece will need modifying to work. The HT quarters also need to be cut down to work and to be clear, the area above the wheel flare on a conv is different that a HT panel so work needs to be done to flatten out the area above the flare to make the conv repair appear more stock looking. If the outer rear wheelhouses are rotted, I'd bet the inners are bad too.
In the end, the cost to pay someone to do a lot of rust repair could be more than what you would pay for a much nicer car from the beginning.
Take a magnet with you and find out how much filler is in the car that may be covering rust someone else attempted to repair previously. Get pictures and post them here if you want. Look up inside the deck lid from the underside to see if the back of it was repaired before. Look at the bottoms of the doors too. A paint job can hide a multitude of problems so assume what you see on the surface is not the full story.
I don't want to discourage you from this car but be very cautious unless you are a skilled body man and can do a lot of this work yourself. if you have to pay for body work and the car is loaded with rust, it could cost more to make the car right, including mechanical repairs, than what the car could be worth in the end.
Brian
February 27th, 2014, 04:36 AM
#13
Runner
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ballwin, MO
Posts: 1,714
Thanks for all the information guys! I definitely have a laundry list of places I'll check out. Depending on the condition, I think if anything other then the quarter panels are rusted I'll have to walk away.
I've posted more information and pictures of the car below. I'd love to hear what other areas you guys think I need to spend extra attention too. Also, I'd like to know, with the information provided, what do you even think its worth in its state. Like I said, 68 442 convertible is essentially my "dream car" and I just want to make sure I don't make a decision I regret.
Car Information:
Background & Paperwork
Seller's father bought the car about 8 yrs ago off ebay in hopes of restoring. Son/seller finally convinced father it wasn't going to be a "fun" project and he should sell. No paperwork really included.
Engine
Numbers matching car. Son drove it for 75 miles from his dad's house a few days ago. Sellers thinks one of the cylinders is miss fires. Hasn't really looked into it yet but will do a compression test today or while I'm there. Thinks is a bad spark plug. Odometer at ?16,XXX
Top
Motor works, top isn't on though. Has lots of rips but the glass (and ripped top) is included.
Electrical
Aside from the missing two headlights, all the other lights and gauges work
Interior
Dash is in great shape. Seats and interior panels are in fairly poor shape.
Body
Rust and has been what seems to be a sub repainted with a sub par quality job. You can see the original yellow under the hood. Hopefully this wasn't a "cover up rust" kind of job.
Seller claims all missing trim is in the trunk and included.
Below are some pictures. What price range do you think a project like this is worth? Am I chasing a dream?
3uJzeWs.jpg
rcud0kF.jpg
VSO2J2r.jpg
2JobcXY.jpg
(sorry, some images got flipped)
I've posted more information and pictures of the car below. I'd love to hear what other areas you guys think I need to spend extra attention too. Also, I'd like to know, with the information provided, what do you even think its worth in its state. Like I said, 68 442 convertible is essentially my "dream car" and I just want to make sure I don't make a decision I regret.
Car Information:
Background & Paperwork
Seller's father bought the car about 8 yrs ago off ebay in hopes of restoring. Son/seller finally convinced father it wasn't going to be a "fun" project and he should sell. No paperwork really included.
Engine
Numbers matching car. Son drove it for 75 miles from his dad's house a few days ago. Sellers thinks one of the cylinders is miss fires. Hasn't really looked into it yet but will do a compression test today or while I'm there. Thinks is a bad spark plug. Odometer at ?16,XXX
Top
Motor works, top isn't on though. Has lots of rips but the glass (and ripped top) is included.
Electrical
Aside from the missing two headlights, all the other lights and gauges work
Interior
Dash is in great shape. Seats and interior panels are in fairly poor shape.
Body
Rust and has been what seems to be a sub repainted with a sub par quality job. You can see the original yellow under the hood. Hopefully this wasn't a "cover up rust" kind of job.
Seller claims all missing trim is in the trunk and included.
Below are some pictures. What price range do you think a project like this is worth? Am I chasing a dream?
3uJzeWs.jpg
rcud0kF.jpg
VSO2J2r.jpg
2JobcXY.jpg
(sorry, some images got flipped)
February 27th, 2014, 06:27 AM
#14
Gary
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Houston,Tx
Posts: 1,202
Thanks for all the information guys! I definitely have a laundry list of places I'll check out. Depending on the condition, I think if anything other then the quarter panels are rusted I'll have to walk away.
I've posted more information and pictures of the car below. I'd love to hear what other areas you guys think I need to spend extra attention too. Also, I'd like to know, with the information provided, what do you even think its worth in its state. Like I said, 68 442 convertible is essentially my "dream car" and I just want to make sure I don't make a decision I regret.
Car Information:
Background & Paperwork
Seller's father bought the car about 8 yrs ago off ebay in hopes of restoring. Son/seller finally convinced father it wasn't going to be a "fun" project and he should sell. No paperwork really included.
Engine
Numbers matching car. Son drove it for 75 miles from his dad's house a few days ago. Sellers thinks one of the cylinders is miss fires. Hasn't really looked into it yet but will do a compression test today or while I'm there. Thinks is a bad spark plug. Odometer at ?16,XXX
Top
Motor works, top isn't on though. Has lots of rips but the glass (and ripped top) is included.
Electrical
Aside from the missing two headlights, all the other lights and gauges work
Interior
Dash is in great shape. Seats and interior panels are in fairly poor shape.
Body
Rust and has been what seems to be a sub repainted with a sub par quality job. You can see the original yellow under the hood. Hopefully this wasn't a "cover up rust" kind of job.
Seller claims all missing trim is in the trunk and included.
Below are some pictures. What price range do you think a project like this is worth? Am I chasing a dream?
(sorry, some images got flipped)
I've posted more information and pictures of the car below. I'd love to hear what other areas you guys think I need to spend extra attention too. Also, I'd like to know, with the information provided, what do you even think its worth in its state. Like I said, 68 442 convertible is essentially my "dream car" and I just want to make sure I don't make a decision I regret.
Car Information:
Background & Paperwork
Seller's father bought the car about 8 yrs ago off ebay in hopes of restoring. Son/seller finally convinced father it wasn't going to be a "fun" project and he should sell. No paperwork really included.
Engine
Numbers matching car. Son drove it for 75 miles from his dad's house a few days ago. Sellers thinks one of the cylinders is miss fires. Hasn't really looked into it yet but will do a compression test today or while I'm there. Thinks is a bad spark plug. Odometer at ?16,XXX
Top
Motor works, top isn't on though. Has lots of rips but the glass (and ripped top) is included.
Electrical
Aside from the missing two headlights, all the other lights and gauges work
Interior
Dash is in great shape. Seats and interior panels are in fairly poor shape.
Body
Rust and has been what seems to be a sub repainted with a sub par quality job. You can see the original yellow under the hood. Hopefully this wasn't a "cover up rust" kind of job.
Seller claims all missing trim is in the trunk and included.
Below are some pictures. What price range do you think a project like this is worth? Am I chasing a dream?
(sorry, some images got flipped)
I had to depend on the pictures the seller sent me because the car was in Indiana but I a very pleased with the overall condition of the car. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-Oldsmob...vip=true&rt=nc
Last edited by Gary's 2 442-S; February 27th, 2014 at 06:30 AM.
February 27th, 2014, 07:37 AM
#15
Runner
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ballwin, MO
Posts: 1,714
Here is the one I just got last month. I was not the winning bidder but I did pay 8100 for it. Pay very close attention to the cowl area around the windshield. See if you can pull the carpet back and look at the floors. I really would not worry about if the engine runs good or not because you more than likely are going to have it rebuilt anyways. Pay close attention to the inside of the deck area/trunk. From the pictures car looks like a good project.
I had to depend on the pictures the seller sent me because the car was in Indiana but I a very pleased with the overall condition of the car. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-Oldsmob...vip=true&rt=nc
I had to depend on the pictures the seller sent me because the car was in Indiana but I a very pleased with the overall condition of the car. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-Oldsmob...vip=true&rt=nc
February 27th, 2014, 10:23 AM
#17
Runner
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ballwin, MO
Posts: 1,714
February 27th, 2014, 02:09 PM
#18
Sammy70 455 Supreme
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Port Perry, Ontario
Posts: 3,069
very cool car..
My two cents would be based on the 68 442 coupe I bought last year.
The two biggest things I look at in a project is frame and whether EVERYTHING that the car had originally is still on or comes with the car.
I paid 2500 for the one pictured, and although it needed a trunk floor and rear skins, the frame was good and EVERYTHING was still on the car.
This convert has a lot going for it at the right price....
My two cents would be based on the 68 442 coupe I bought last year.
The two biggest things I look at in a project is frame and whether EVERYTHING that the car had originally is still on or comes with the car.
I paid 2500 for the one pictured, and although it needed a trunk floor and rear skins, the frame was good and EVERYTHING was still on the car.
This convert has a lot going for it at the right price....
February 27th, 2014, 05:04 PM
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,665
Like Craig, I couldn't resist. Brian
February 27th, 2014, 05:36 PM
#20
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Seneca Falls, NY
Posts: 5,261
I looked for about 10 years for mine. I paid $2K for it in 2003. It had no motor or tranny and was a basket case but I could see everything that was wrong with it. The car was an original 4 speed. It came with new (not installed) floors, trunk, 1/4 panels, fender patches, forward lighting harness, & engine harness. The body work required was similar to the one you're looking at.
I did all the metal work myself and I was still into it for $500 for a core 70 455 4 speed motor, got the tranny for free but had to put $300 into rebuild parts, $3500 for the motor rebuild, and $6500 for paint and bodywork. I spent probably another $3k on parts. The little things like dash pads, emblems, trim, etc add up really fast. I was lucky that I picked up a 68 cutlass convertible parts car for $500 shortly after buying the 442 because the 442 didn't come with any trim and the Cutlass had all of it.
I probably had 500 hours into the body metal work but someone that knows what they're doing could have done it in 160 hours.
This is the pile of **** that I started with. It looks bad but in reality what you're looking at isn't much better. The major money is in body work and paint:
I did all the metal work myself and I was still into it for $500 for a core 70 455 4 speed motor, got the tranny for free but had to put $300 into rebuild parts, $3500 for the motor rebuild, and $6500 for paint and bodywork. I spent probably another $3k on parts. The little things like dash pads, emblems, trim, etc add up really fast. I was lucky that I picked up a 68 cutlass convertible parts car for $500 shortly after buying the 442 because the 442 didn't come with any trim and the Cutlass had all of it.
I probably had 500 hours into the body metal work but someone that knows what they're doing could have done it in 160 hours.
This is the pile of **** that I started with. It looks bad but in reality what you're looking at isn't much better. The major money is in body work and paint:
February 27th, 2014, 07:34 PM
#22
Randy C.
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Albany, OR
Posts: 3,249
When I restored my '68, I had to replace the driver side quarter and we couldn't find a donor convertible quarter so the body shop used a hardtop repro quarter. They cut the old quarter out an inch or two below the peak - the body man said that everything below that point is the same for the hardtop or the convertible quarter (pics below) and he was apparently right because it all went back together quite well. See pics below.
Does the stainless steel quarter trim come with the car? If not, it's rare and hard to find, and expect to pay a pantload of money when you find them!
Although my car was stored inside practically its entire life and there was no rust in the fenders, I had rust in the peak of the passenger side rear wheel opening and all along the bottom of the trunk lid, all of which was replaced.
As noted previously, the W36 stripe on the car you are looking at did not come that way from the factory. The "4-4-2" number placement on the fenders is different for cars with the W36 stripe than it is for cars without the stripe (pic below).
Randy C.
Does the stainless steel quarter trim come with the car? If not, it's rare and hard to find, and expect to pay a pantload of money when you find them!
Although my car was stored inside practically its entire life and there was no rust in the fenders, I had rust in the peak of the passenger side rear wheel opening and all along the bottom of the trunk lid, all of which was replaced.
As noted previously, the W36 stripe on the car you are looking at did not come that way from the factory. The "4-4-2" number placement on the fenders is different for cars with the W36 stripe than it is for cars without the stripe (pic below).
Randy C.
February 27th, 2014, 08:39 PM
#23
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Redmond, Oregon
Posts: 3,326
68 project
I think oldscutlass was right. If you are buying one to have done and you are having to pay others to do the work. A good quality paint job can cost way past $5000 and even $10,000. If you are not able to get that done cheaper keep that in mind. Interior can be done by most DIY guys with some patients and the interior kits available today. But still can cost $1500. On the high end. Suspension rebuild if done by you can cost $2-500 depending on how much you change and update. rebuilding a trans can be a grand. Rebuilding a motor can be a couple of grand or more. Chroming bumpers can cost $1500 not to mention little stuff that really does add up. A top can be done by DIY with lots of research and a few buddies to help for $3-500. Weather strips can run $3-400. Tires and wheels can be up to $1500 or more depending on your taste. But always remember it is your car and do it how you want not how anyone esle wants it.
So, if you are prepared for that and the frustration of waiting to enjoy it for a few years. Or buying a finished or close to finished one and maybe spending less in the end. All things to weigh out.
Hope you get one you enjoy as much as the rest of us really enjoy these cars.
Larry
So, if you are prepared for that and the frustration of waiting to enjoy it for a few years. Or buying a finished or close to finished one and maybe spending less in the end. All things to weigh out.
Hope you get one you enjoy as much as the rest of us really enjoy these cars.
Larry
February 28th, 2014, 06:42 AM
#24
Runner
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ballwin, MO
Posts: 1,714
Hi all,
I really appreciate all the input you gave. It definitely helped me verify and check different areas of the car. I was able to drive out to it last night and check it out and...
I got it!
The car does have rust and will definitely take a lot of time, work, blood, tires, and of course, money to fix up. Luckily, I was expected much worse and most does seem to be localized at the fenders. As you mentioned, I'm sure some surprises will arise. There are only a few places I'll have to address sooner then later and I'll definitely take more questions about that in a "build & restoration thread".
The important thing for me is that a 68 442 convertible has been my dream car. This car ran amazing! Cylinders were all fine, the noise was just because the exhaust manifold gasket needs to be replaced. I really got this car because I can drive it as is, really enjoy it from day 1, and fix this over time and really make it that "love / hate" project restores talk about. The price seemed low enough to where I couldn't let it go. The other nice thing is that the owner is going to be able to trailer to my house so I didn't have to drive it 150 miles in 5 degree windchill with no top haha.
Thanks again for all the input. Like always, the members of this forum have been more then helpful to this young, trying to learn, Oldsmobile fan.
I really appreciate all the input you gave. It definitely helped me verify and check different areas of the car. I was able to drive out to it last night and check it out and...
I got it!
The car does have rust and will definitely take a lot of time, work, blood, tires, and of course, money to fix up. Luckily, I was expected much worse and most does seem to be localized at the fenders. As you mentioned, I'm sure some surprises will arise. There are only a few places I'll have to address sooner then later and I'll definitely take more questions about that in a "build & restoration thread".
The important thing for me is that a 68 442 convertible has been my dream car. This car ran amazing! Cylinders were all fine, the noise was just because the exhaust manifold gasket needs to be replaced. I really got this car because I can drive it as is, really enjoy it from day 1, and fix this over time and really make it that "love / hate" project restores talk about. The price seemed low enough to where I couldn't let it go. The other nice thing is that the owner is going to be able to trailer to my house so I didn't have to drive it 150 miles in 5 degree windchill with no top haha.
Thanks again for all the input. Like always, the members of this forum have been more then helpful to this young, trying to learn, Oldsmobile fan.
February 28th, 2014, 07:57 AM
#26
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Seneca Falls, NY
Posts: 5,261
Congratulations. Here's what you've got to look forward to (if Saffron was the original color). This is the 68 W30 that Ebbs owned. I saw it 10 years ago before it was all cleaned up. It was still a beautiful car then. More pics can be found here:
http://www.mecum.com/auctions/lot_de...=SC0513-154105
http://www.mecum.com/auctions/lot_de...=SC0513-154105
February 28th, 2014, 10:04 AM
#28
Runner
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ballwin, MO
Posts: 1,714
Although that is a beautiful car, Saffron yellow is not really my color so I doubt I'll be taking it back to original when I get to that route (sorry purist).
I'll definitely do that. Although this is going to be a slow process, I'll do my best to publish a log of cost going in to it and progress. It should give others what some "real world cost" for people just picking up a ride. I'll try to make a portion of my site to really keep track of this restoration. I'm pretty excited for this. Now to just wait for the weather to get a little more tame....
I'll definitely do that. Although this is going to be a slow process, I'll do my best to publish a log of cost going in to it and progress. It should give others what some "real world cost" for people just picking up a ride. I'll try to make a portion of my site to really keep track of this restoration. I'm pretty excited for this. Now to just wait for the weather to get a little more tame....
February 28th, 2014, 01:24 PM
#32
Runner
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ballwin, MO
Posts: 1,714
February 28th, 2014, 02:08 PM
#34
Runner
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ballwin, MO
Posts: 1,714
Its going to be a long process. My wife set the goal for our first son to maybe take it his senior prom. He is 2 and a half.
February 28th, 2014, 04:43 PM
#36
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 492
Good for you Joffroi,
I can connect you with a good and reasonable bodyman if you need him when you're ready. I have a 69 Cutlass and a 53 Ford flathead pick-up ahead of you though. He thinks my Cutlass will be ready by Summer and the Ford by the end of Summer. He will be welding in quarter skins on my 69 by Tax time. - Steven
I can connect you with a good and reasonable bodyman if you need him when you're ready. I have a 69 Cutlass and a 53 Ford flathead pick-up ahead of you though. He thinks my Cutlass will be ready by Summer and the Ford by the end of Summer. He will be welding in quarter skins on my 69 by Tax time. - Steven
September 30th, 2019, 11:19 AM
#37
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Long Island, NY (Home of Amy Fisher)
Posts: 84
How did you like the fit of that quarter?.....I realize this is an old thread, but I need both quarters and finding oem is next to impassible and if so, its an arm and a leg.
Doesnt really need the whole quarter, has the typical rot around the wheel well. Not sure if that part could be but out and welded in from a repop quarter.
Doesnt really need the whole quarter, has the typical rot around the wheel well. Not sure if that part could be but out and welded in from a repop quarter.
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