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When I went to have 3.5’ “Oldsmobile” pot metal trunk trim re-chromed from my 1968 442 I noted majority of the studs where missing or broken in half on the back. What’s the best source for these studs or suitable replacement for them? I cut the two studs off the small rear corners I replace from Fusick and JB welded them onto the shortest studs. Still need to make 2 more replacements.
Also…after getting trim back from chromer…there were still some pits they couldn’t fill for some reason (not sure if this normal after paying $375 for re-chorming). Is there a certain filler recommend since the center will be painted with the Aluminum paint?
Sometimes pits are just too deep to grind out without making things worse. Since that section will be painted, use some glazing putty to fill the holes, then a light coat of primer and topcoat.
I don't think those JB Weld repairs are going to last. Soon as you put any torque on the stud I think it will break.
Get some 3M emblem attaching tape and use that to hold your trim on. I have some scripts that have held on for over 20 years on a daily driver.
Sometimes pits are just too deep to grind out without making things worse. Since that section will be painted, use some glazing putty to fill the holes, then a light coat of primer and topcoat.
I don't think those JB Weld repairs are going to last. Soon as you put any torque on the stud I think it will break.
Get some 3M emblem attaching tape and use that to hold your trim on. I have some scripts that have held on for over 20 years on a daily driver.
For $375 they should have filled all the pits. The place I talked to when I was going to have my vent window frames done said they would fill all the pits prior to chroming. I still haven't done them yet so I don't know how they will turn out
If you use speed nuts backwards and tighten them with needle nose pliers you'd be surprised at how little stud you need to grip.
I never had any luck with an epoxy. I went with a good 3M double sided tape (which is finally pulling off after 10 years)
Last edited by allyolds68; December 13th, 2021 at 12:11 PM.
For $375 they should have filled all the pits. The place I talked to when I was going to have my vent window frames done said they would fill all the pits prior to chroming
If you use speed nuts backwards and tighten them with needle nose pliers you'd be surprised at how little stud you need to grip.
I never had any luck with an epoxy. I went with a good 3M double sided tape (which is pulling off after 10 years)
Tried a couple methods since 3 were too short for a trim nut. Reinforced the two I cut and reattached with expoxy. I’ll double up with 3M tape as well…
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Correctly repairing and replating pot metal is a VERY labor intensive process. $375 is a fraction of what it would cost to have that part repaired correctly. Companies like Qual Krom in Erie, PA can do a really nice job on parts like this. $375 is a down payment. Every one of those pits needs to be carefully ground out by hand. The studs need to be reattached. Once that is done, the part is chemically stripped then copper plated. The copper provides the base so every single pit can be hand-filled with solder. The solder needs to be finished just like body filler. Once that is done, then the part is copper/nickel/chrome plated like any other quality plating job. Most platers can't or won't put this level of workmanship into it.
Correctly repairing and replating pot metal is a VERY labor intensive process. $375 is a fraction of what it would cost to have that part repaired correctly.
I was quoted $250 a few years ago to do driver’s and passenger side vent window frames at Sandy’s in Syracuse. He took me in back and introduced me to the old guy that did pot metal. It’s been a while but I remember them telling me they ground or electronically (?) stripped the old chrome off, filled all the pits with braze. Ground smooth, and then re-chromed. I agree that with the lettering this could be a more time consuming process but I can’t imagine it would be in the 1000’s.
Correctly repairing and replating pot metal is a VERY labor intensive process. $375 is a fraction of what it would cost to have that part repaired correctly. Companies like Qual Krom in Erie, PA can do a really nice job on parts like this. $375 is a down payment. Every one of those pits needs to be carefully ground out by hand. The studs need to be reattached. Once that is done, the part is chemically stripped then copper plated. The copper provides the base so every single pit can be hand-filled with solder. The solder needs to be finished just like body filler. Once that is done, then the part is copper/nickel/chrome plated like any other quality plating job. Most platers can't or won't put this level of workmanship into it.
I was shocked at the price of re-plating a few items from the 442...so I choose to just do the trunk trim which is not replaceable. They asked for a few more weeks with it....I assumed they were gonna take their time and make it right...looks like they gave up and did a half *** job.
Last edited by rippinbyu; December 14th, 2021 at 03:51 PM.
I was shocked at the price of re-plating a few items from the 442...so I choose to just do the trunk trim which is not replaceable. They asked for a few more weeks with it....I assumed they were gonna take their time and mike it right...looks like they gave up and did a half *** job.
I'm pretty sure with some gentile scruffing with a rotary rasp, JB weld skimmed/leveled with a razor, gently sanded flat then painted spray bomb silver... would be detectable only to you.
Sure you shouldn't have to go over the plater's job but I could make that look pitless.
Have you contacted the plater to talk about possibly redoing it? They could work with you? Especially if you tell them you are a member of the classic olds community and they would get good advertising etc...
December 13th, 2021, 11:07 AM
