Replacing intake gasket 455 tipsand tricks?????
May 18th, 2014, 07:11 AM
#41
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Deland Fla.
Posts: 535
I am with you POGO I cut the turkey tray so just the tangs pop in the holes and use a composite gasket and I found the grey stuff works better than any and I have used them all over the years Blue Copper Black but the grey really is tough for some reason I also dimple the intake and the block and clean them with acetone before putting the sealer on and I have not had a problem.
May 18th, 2014, 08:18 AM
#42
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
"I have anywhere from 50-90 psi oil pressure and I haven't seen a leak from the manifold yet."
=================
Where is pressurized oil near the intake gaskets?
The pressure in the oiling system is entirely irrelevant.
O-ring:
PN database says
383524
SEAL, Distributor to block O-ring
Generically- Parker O-ring #2-219 or equivalent.
Fel-Pro #424 per Rockauto.com
=================
Where is pressurized oil near the intake gaskets?
The pressure in the oiling system is entirely irrelevant.
O-ring:
PN database says
383524
SEAL, Distributor to block O-ring
Generically- Parker O-ring #2-219 or equivalent.
Fel-Pro #424 per Rockauto.com
May 18th, 2014, 10:25 AM
#44
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Deland Fla.
Posts: 535
Toy, its the front and rear rails on the block and manifold and I dont use the cork or rubber gaskets I just use the Grey stuff sealer and I take a point punch and dimple the surface of both the manifold and block and I havent had a manifold leak in over 35 years. It works for me? I will have my computer savvy wife help me upload some photos.
May 24th, 2014, 10:59 AM
#47
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
"take a point punch and dimple the surface of both the manifold and block"
==================
That plus silicone bead should certainly do the trick
I have dimpled the block rail on *one* engine that gave me trouble many years ago - squeezing the rubber seal out. I think I messed up and used a thin layer of silicone [slippery] -and- the rubber seal, so what redone heads [shaved a bit?] and aftermarket intake of unknown history [shaved?] it pinched the slippery rubber seal too much and spit it out. After a day or so.
Here's an idea
Texture the block rail with your letter stamps instead - "OLDSMOBILE 425 - OLDSMO..." or similar...
==================
That plus silicone bead should certainly do the trick
I have dimpled the block rail on *one* engine that gave me trouble many years ago - squeezing the rubber seal out. I think I messed up and used a thin layer of silicone [slippery] -and- the rubber seal, so what redone heads [shaved a bit?] and aftermarket intake of unknown history [shaved?] it pinched the slippery rubber seal too much and spit it out. After a day or so.
Here's an idea
Texture the block rail with your letter stamps instead - "OLDSMOBILE 425 - OLDSMO..." or similar...
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