New to me car: 400G intake manifold vacuum lines and electrical sensors
#1
New to me car: 400G intake manifold vacuum lines and electrical sensors
Hey everyone,
finally got my first Oldsmobile and actually drove it 500 miles home through the Sierra mountains.
I got home and started checking out some of the vacuum lines and was wondering if anyone can make some recommendations.
I noticed the advance is pulling port. The engine seems to run fine on that so I won’t mess with it.
the TVS vacuum tree is not being used. If it’s not capped, is that a vacuum leak source? What bolt size do you recommend I use to block off?
would also love to wire the vacuum lines correctly from the air cleaner solenoid. Not exactly sure of the function of that. The flap just stays open.
the tops sensor is broken, I think it’s an idiot light sensor, for maybe oil temp? I’d like to replace that.
and then on the topic of wiring, there are loose connections near the drivers side fender.
would love everyone’s input as I would like to keep driving this thing.
finally got my first Oldsmobile and actually drove it 500 miles home through the Sierra mountains.
I got home and started checking out some of the vacuum lines and was wondering if anyone can make some recommendations.
I noticed the advance is pulling port. The engine seems to run fine on that so I won’t mess with it.
the TVS vacuum tree is not being used. If it’s not capped, is that a vacuum leak source? What bolt size do you recommend I use to block off?
would also love to wire the vacuum lines correctly from the air cleaner solenoid. Not exactly sure of the function of that. The flap just stays open.
the tops sensor is broken, I think it’s an idiot light sensor, for maybe oil temp? I’d like to replace that.
and then on the topic of wiring, there are loose connections near the drivers side fender.
would love everyone’s input as I would like to keep driving this thing.
#4
The factory configuration used ported vacuum to operate the vacuum advance. Because of this, the factory vac advance can and initial timing are designed assuming no vacuum advance at idle. The TVS is intended as a safety feature. If the car starts to overheat, the TVS switches from ported to manifold vacuum at the distributor, which increases timing, increases idle speed, and lowers coolant temp. Bypassing it while continuing to use ported vacuum only serves to increase the risk that the car may overheat on a hot day in traffic. Unfortunately, people who don't take the time to understand why the part is there simply disconnect it out of ignorance.
#5
The factory configuration used ported vacuum to operate the vacuum advance. Because of this, the factory vac advance can and initial timing are designed assuming no vacuum advance at idle. The TVS is intended as a safety feature. If the car starts to overheat, the TVS switches from ported to manifold vacuum at the distributor, which increases timing, increases idle speed, and lowers coolant temp. Bypassing it while continuing to use ported vacuum only serves to increase the risk that the car may overheat on a hot day in traffic. Unfortunately, people who don't take the time to understand why the part is there simply disconnect it out of ignorance.
do you have any advice on that sensor that is broken off in the manifold?
#7
Good luck with the new ride!
Changing the rubber fuel line between the fuel pump and the carburetor back to original steel fuel line would be a priority on my list. If the rubber hose leaks it will put gasoline on a hot engine. If the heat doesn't cause ignition/fire, spark from a leaky plug wire, coil or armature from an alternator could be enough.
Changing the rubber fuel line between the fuel pump and the carburetor back to original steel fuel line would be a priority on my list. If the rubber hose leaks it will put gasoline on a hot engine. If the heat doesn't cause ignition/fire, spark from a leaky plug wire, coil or armature from an alternator could be enough.
#8
Good luck with the new ride!
Changing the rubber fuel line between the fuel pump and the carburetor back to original steel fuel line would be a priority on my list. If the rubber hose leaks it will put gasoline on a hot engine. If the heat doesn't cause ignition/fire, spark from a leaky plug wire, coil or armature from an alternator could be enough.
Changing the rubber fuel line between the fuel pump and the carburetor back to original steel fuel line would be a priority on my list. If the rubber hose leaks it will put gasoline on a hot engine. If the heat doesn't cause ignition/fire, spark from a leaky plug wire, coil or armature from an alternator could be enough.
I agree. Looking for that part now. Those are compression fittings and don’t need any tape on them, correct?
#10
Not compression fittings.
Double flared ends with tubing nuts. Put anti-seize between the nuts and the lines. Tape on the threads is ok to prevent seizing but it shouldn't be needed to prevent leaks, the seal is at the flare, not the threads.
Double flared ends with tubing nuts. Put anti-seize between the nuts and the lines. Tape on the threads is ok to prevent seizing but it shouldn't be needed to prevent leaks, the seal is at the flare, not the threads.
#11
#12
With these available, there's no reason to put yourself thru the aggravation of trying to make those tight bends and double flares.
Last edited by rocketraider; November 14th, 2023 at 11:44 AM.
#13
#14
Ditto my experience w/ ILT. Thankfully a friend owns a tube bending device.
#15
I've heard that the aftermarket pump-to-carb lines are poorly formed, and mine was no different, but not too far off. My replacement line (Fusick) was about an inch off from correct orientation at the carb when connected to the pump. What I did was attach well at the pump, with the line in it's closest approximation to carb inlet. I gently bent the line closer to the carb inlet. I then unbolted the carb from intake. Next I lifted the carb and slightly rotated it to align with the fuel line, connected the line to the carb and sealed correctly, then lowered the carb back onto the intake while carefully massaging the "factory" bends and bolted in place. This way the connections at the pump and carb both lined up and sealed correctly to the line. Connecting the line first, then moving the carb to correct installation location, while "massaging," allowed me to get it all together with no leaks. Then after everything was torqued into place, I gently "plied" the hard line to, in my mind, relieve some of the stress. Five years later, no leaks. I can unbolt the line from either the pump or the carb and the ends of the line remain in the port/connector(s) on the carb and pump. Reconnecting later, and still no leaks.
Last edited by BackInTheGame; November 14th, 2023 at 04:45 PM.
#17
Oldsmobile used a junction block and horn relay mounted on the fenderwell. Battery (+) cable runs to the starter solenoid, but it has a 10 gage wire running from the battery (+) terminal to the junction block post. This powers the whole car.
You need a 1969 factory Olds Chassis Service Manual. It has the wiring diagrams and plenty of other things that will help you understand and service your car.
You need a 1969 factory Olds Chassis Service Manual. It has the wiring diagrams and plenty of other things that will help you understand and service your car.
#18
Oldsmobile used a junction block and horn relay mounted on the fenderwell. Battery (+) cable runs to the starter solenoid, but it has a 10 gage wire running from the battery (+) terminal to the junction block post. This powers the whole car.
You need a 1969 factory Olds Chassis Service Manual. It has the wiring diagrams and plenty of other things that will help you understand and service your car.
You need a 1969 factory Olds Chassis Service Manual. It has the wiring diagrams and plenty of other things that will help you understand and service your car.
yeah I’m reaching out now to some people that might have an original one. Thank you
#19
#20
Many original used OEM CSM manuals available, some w/ free shipping, some in worse/better condition. Do your research...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/16637673770...evt=1&mkcid=28
https://www.ebay.com/itm/16637673770...evt=1&mkcid=28
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