463 build with Procomp heads
#81
Hi Mark. I thought the pump and manifold looked a little nicer than the orig alum. What primer and paint did you use? I would like the same look! P.S. Am still going to get back to you on the cam, lifters and rocker arms. Been out of town. thanks again. Bill.
#82
Looks like you got exactly what you wanted. This looks like an ideal combination for a long life, fun street build. You sure did show that the Procomps out of the box are a worthwhile investment. I know Mark did an intake manifold test a while back, and I just want to be clear. The manifold you guys chose was the Performer & not the RPM Performer, right? I could see how the slightly smaller runners could give better torque at the lower RPM numbers/ better gas mileage - good for the street. I was wondering if you guys think the Eagle rods were really needed for this power level? Maybe you guys used them just for piece of mind since the stock rods are considered to be a weak link. What did your final compression ratio end up at? If you could start over on this build, do you think you would do anything different? Any plans for upgrading to EFI in the future? Thanks for sharing your build, nice job guys & way to represent Olds
My goal was a reliable 450hp engine, Mark said no need for porting he could easily get 450 without it.
I really didn't want more, been there with my Chevy, I figured that 450hp is perfect for the street.
The manifold is Performer, Mark thought Performer would be better for my engine since it's mainly a street car.
Reliability was a major concern so getting new rods was a no brainer and by the time you are done with the stock ones the price difference is not that big.
Final compression is 10.3:1.
I don't think I would do anything different, I got exactly what I wanted. Mark delivered and he made sure that everything was right before shipping it out.
I know this is not a build with crazy HP numbers, it's just a solid, reliable street engine with just enough HP and TQ to have some fun with.
Mark is a great guy to deal with and the main reason I had him build it is cause I wanted a peace of mind. I really never even considered anybody else.
No plans for EFI, I am more of a carb guy.
BTW how is your car coming along, I don't remember seeing any updates lately.
#83
... I was wondering if you guys think the Eagle rods were really needed for this power level? Maybe you guys used them just for piece of mind since the stock rods are considered to be a weak link. What did your final compression ratio end up at? If you could start over on this build, do you think you would do anything different? Any plans for upgrading to EFI in the future? Thanks for sharing your build, nice job guys & way to represent Olds
Down side is most of the 455 builds that use Eagle rods need to grind the block else the rods hit the opposing cylinder bore. Not bad if you've aware ahead of time and haven't installed the crank and cam shaft like I did.
George
#85
My Car
I'm getting real close now. Just have to work on attaching the hood, deck lid, installing lexan and alignment. My friend Ulises is going to paint the car over the winter. I wanted to make a few passes this fall but I'm running out of time. Thanks for your interest. Tell Mark I said hi next time you talk to him.
#88
Depends on the build, budget and desired hp/tq.
Edin wanted 450 hp, I knew I could get that with the combo I put together. Much beyond that he would have either had to clean up the Procomps or get the Edelbrocks to make more power without a lot more cam. The Edelbrocks are better out of the box, but the Procomps have more meat in the important areas so you can get into them a bit more aggressively.
I have a set of Procomps on a shelf in my shop. They've been filled at the intake port and ported with 2.125 intake valves. They now flow 312@.600. And the intake port entry is now .200 shorter than it started out to be yet flows better all the way thru. They'll most likely be going on my own build.
As mentioned, depends on your desires and goals.
Last edited by cutlassefi; October 6th, 2014 at 06:41 PM.
#89
I noticed you used PRW stainless 1.65 rockers but aren't those for Pontiacs?
If I use short polylocks and 1.75 rocker studs would I still be able to use the standard valve cover for stock looks (if you use the PRW or Procomp roller rockers)?
Cheers!
If I use short polylocks and 1.75 rocker studs would I still be able to use the standard valve cover for stock looks (if you use the PRW or Procomp roller rockers)?
Cheers!
#90
Thanks Mark! I'm leaning towards the Edelbrocks (Fortunately money isn't too much of an issue) because of the flow after Bernard does his thing w/them! But I want to work w/you on the cam, lifters, and roller rockers. Also, is the oil restriction in the mains necessary? Bernard has pushrods that are restricted. Is this a viable alternative? many thanks!! Bill.
#91
Mark! As an afterthought I'm only looking for 400HP @best. This is a '57 Cruiser! If I can get better w/9-1 comp. thats all the better. I'd love some good "LOPE" w/the cam. No vacuum issues (Hydroboost Master). I know i'm repeating myself to you, but I'm sure you deal w/alot of people asking the same dumb questions every day. Cheers, Bill.
#92
I noticed you used PRW stainless 1.65 rockers but aren't those for Pontiacs? Technically yes, see below.
If I use short polylocks and 1.75 rocker studs would I still be able to use the standard valve cover for stock looks Yes with either a thick gasket or double regular gaskets. (if you use the PRW or Procomp roller rockers)?
Cheers!
If I use short polylocks and 1.75 rocker studs would I still be able to use the standard valve cover for stock looks Yes with either a thick gasket or double regular gaskets. (if you use the PRW or Procomp roller rockers)?
Cheers!
And just let me know when you're ready Bill.
Thanks.
Last edited by cutlassefi; October 8th, 2014 at 04:33 AM.
#93
Thought I update this thread as I am getting close to firing it up. Had to take a break from the car due to the house purchase and a demanding work schedule. Now that things eased up a little I am back working on the car.
After having issues with Doug's Headers, they have been returned. (thank you Mark for helping me getting the refund).
I bought a set of ARH header 1 7/8 with 3" collector. I had issues with them too. Had to cut one of the tubes and weld it in a different angle.
In last 2 weeks I have been busy trying to finish it up. Ran new Stainless Steel brake lines, new booster, proportioning valve and master cylinder. Had to get a new transmission crossmember due to ARH headers and their fitment. About to have the car off the jack stands for the first time in months.
It feels good to be excited about this all over again.
P.S. I hate headers.
After having issues with Doug's Headers, they have been returned. (thank you Mark for helping me getting the refund).
I bought a set of ARH header 1 7/8 with 3" collector. I had issues with them too. Had to cut one of the tubes and weld it in a different angle.
In last 2 weeks I have been busy trying to finish it up. Ran new Stainless Steel brake lines, new booster, proportioning valve and master cylinder. Had to get a new transmission crossmember due to ARH headers and their fitment. About to have the car off the jack stands for the first time in months.
It feels good to be excited about this all over again.
P.S. I hate headers.
#96
Once again the headers were giving me problems. Not happy at all with ARH. Wish I didn't spent that money on them.
Had to get a smaller oil filter and grind the mini-starter for them to fit.
The cost of the headers, modifications I had to do on them and everything I had to get in order for them to fit is almost $2k.
Had to get a smaller oil filter and grind the mini-starter for them to fit.
The cost of the headers, modifications I had to do on them and everything I had to get in order for them to fit is almost $2k.
#97
Sucks that a few of you guys have had such shitty fitment with $1000+ headers. You might as well bought cheap headers, beat on where needed and have them coated for much less.
#99
Good luck on the five speed... friend got one of those to go with his LGT700 and it didn't work with the trans, wasn't even close without significant mods. Sent it back, used the stock one.
#100
olds 307 and 403 You are completely right. I should've bought a cheaper set. I regret spending the money on them, they have brought me nothing but costly problems.
I am not happy with ARH at all. I talked to Steve at ARH who said Nick ( the owner) wants to talk to you about the problem, he is a Olds owner and blah blah blah. Never heard back from either one. I could have bought 4 sets of ebay headers and beat on till i get it right. Even with the new crossmember I have about 1/4 clearance on the driver side and about 3/4 on the passenger side.
dc2x4drvr I wish I could say the same. I bought because of people that had them and said how well they fit. i tried mine I was so disappointed, than I discovered I am not the only one. For them to encourage somebody to beat a $1100 set with a hummer is far from acceptable.
83hurstguy I had no choice, the headers are so close to the floor that I had to get something for them to clear. they would not clear the stock crossmember.
It was either this aluminum one or the steel one. The price difference was $60 so I went with this one. I am planning on converting to 5 speed so I figured this one would work.
I am not happy with ARH at all. I talked to Steve at ARH who said Nick ( the owner) wants to talk to you about the problem, he is a Olds owner and blah blah blah. Never heard back from either one. I could have bought 4 sets of ebay headers and beat on till i get it right. Even with the new crossmember I have about 1/4 clearance on the driver side and about 3/4 on the passenger side.
dc2x4drvr I wish I could say the same. I bought because of people that had them and said how well they fit. i tried mine I was so disappointed, than I discovered I am not the only one. For them to encourage somebody to beat a $1100 set with a hummer is far from acceptable.
83hurstguy I had no choice, the headers are so close to the floor that I had to get something for them to clear. they would not clear the stock crossmember.
It was either this aluminum one or the steel one. The price difference was $60 so I went with this one. I am planning on converting to 5 speed so I figured this one would work.
#102
Wow. Honestly, I've known many people with ARH and never had that issue. Something has to be screwed up with those headers. My friend who sent the crossmember back has ARH headers (LS swap), and he had to run the exhaust downhill to get under the factory crossmember. ARH did send me a set of A-body headers last time I ordered a set of G-body, and Steve didn't know the difference by visual when I sent pictures. Nick straightened the situation out.
#103
I tried my friends hooker headers, about 8-9 years old, they fit perfect. I tried the same part number just brand new and they don't fit the same. When we compared the 2, basic design is the same but you can see the subtle differences.
I know once I'm done with this swap, I am gonna attempt to build a set of custom headers.
#104
Wow. Honestly, I've known many people with ARH and never had that issue. Something has to be screwed up with those headers. My friend who sent the crossmember back has ARH headers (LS swap), and he had to run the exhaust downhill to get under the factory crossmember. ARH did send me a set of A-body headers last time I ordered a set of G-body, and Steve didn't know the difference by visual when I sent pictures. Nick straightened the situation out.
This was the main problem. Couldn't even come close to bolting it to the heads.
OUT OF THE BOX
AFTER MY REPAIR
HERE IS A PICTURE FROM ARH WEBSITE
Last edited by 70cutty; April 8th, 2015 at 11:57 AM. Reason: I added a picture from ARH site
#105
Think 8-9 years ago was a possible cutoff date from USA made vs Chinese made? I'm not sure if Hooker outsources to China or not but it wouldn't suprise me these days? I believe ARH is supposed to be all USA made. I agree that with today's technology and money being spent for a set of headers (1k or more and not even custom made.) you should have 100% fitment every time! Definitely feel your pain 70Cutty! I don't even have an engine built yet and am dreading this issue!
#107
There is few guys here on OC that have the same problem, especially with #3 tube. Why does it stick out so much, when there is plenty of room for it to be placed between 1 and 5.
This was the main problem. Couldn't even come close to bolting it to the heads.
OUT OF THE BOX
AFTER MY REPAIR
HERE IS A PICTURE FROM ARH WEBSITE
This was the main problem. Couldn't even come close to bolting it to the heads.
OUT OF THE BOX
AFTER MY REPAIR
HERE IS A PICTURE FROM ARH WEBSITE
I would like to hear that someone screwed up and shipped you the wrong ones, because these are the only headers I ever wanted. Now, I'm not so sure anymore.
/ Anders
#108
The picture on their website are the G-body headers. You have reduced firewall clearance, hence why cylinder 7 goes down instead of straight back like the A-body headers. Granted, that number 3 tube is a bizarre issue.
#109
To be fair to ARH, I just got off the phone with Nick from ARH and he offered to pay for the headers to be shipped back so he can check them out.
I haven't decided what to do yet. I am already half way there with the modifications to the headers and car due to the headers. I may just try and finish this so I can finally have the car back on the road.
I haven't decided what to do yet. I am already half way there with the modifications to the headers and car due to the headers. I may just try and finish this so I can finally have the car back on the road.
#116
#118
With iron heads 10.3:1 compression might be too much with today's pump gas. Not saying that it can't be done, but your tuning and combination of parts has to be perfect. I would shoot for less compression for iron heads.
#119
It's not an Olds but my Brother in law runs 10.5:1 on his .30 over sbc 400 with iron heads and doesn't seem to have issues that I know of. Yes it can be done but it may be safer to dial it back a bit unless you change your mind and go Aluminum.
#120
The reasons this is most likely not an issue with the SBC 400 is that it has a much lower rod ratio and even the smog Chevy heads have a better combustion chamber than the stock Olds irons.
Thanks.