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I just put my engine in and thought I would ask? (motor mount bolt are not in yet) are there any tricks to installing the headers? like, do I have to remove my mini starter first, lift motor on drivers side etc.? I have only worked on late 50's to mid 60's Chevrolet's with 4 speed trans
and just thought I would ask someone who has already put headers on a 1967 442!
Yes to both and in addition, you may need to remove the oil filter adapter. They need to go in from underneath the car. While it's a bit late for you, I find it's a lot easier to rest them in place before the engine is installed.
What do you mean by rest in place? and thanks for the quick reply! I can always just pull the engine back out to remove the oil filter and the adapter I have not put the bolts in the motor mounts yet!
Basically you lay and tie the headers next to the engine close to where they bolt up. Then set the engine down on the mounts and bolt the headers in. Just remember they may have some interference and have to be removed, dimpled and then reinstalled depending on how they are constructed. Not many are plug and play.
can't you just slide them up from underneath the car or do I "have" to do them they way you suggested? this seems to be at least a two man job and if it fight me to much I will put the headers on the shelf and put stock exhaust manifold on her!
can't you just slide them up from underneath the car or do I "have" to do them they way you suggested? this seems to be at least a two man job and if it fight me to much I will put the headers on the shelf and put stock exhaust manifold on her!
It is not a two person job. I've installed plenty of Olds headers by myself. You have to drop the starter and oil filter adapter. Life will also be easier if the steering shaft is removed. The brake distribution block will need to be moved to the top of the frame rail. If the car is a manual trans the clutch z-bar needs to come out and probably needs to be threaded through the headers as you put the driver side in. You'll likely need to unbolt the motor mounts and jack the engine.
There's a reason why manifolds don't flow as well as real headers.
can't you just slide them up from underneath the car or do I "have" to do them they way you suggested? this seems to be at least a two man job and if it fight me to much I will put the headers on the shelf and put stock exhaust manifold on her!
I've done them by myself also, but an extra set of hands is a perk. The final reward is worth the initial pain.
where exactly should I move the distribution block to on the frame rail because there is not a lot of room because of where the Z bar mounts! some pics would be great! I take it that I will also have to make new brake lines? does the steering shaft come off without pulling the steering column? I was hoping to have this car running soon but if I have to do all this work that will not happen!
where exactly should I move the distribution block to on the frame rail because there is not a lot of room because of where the Z bar mounts! some pics would be great! I take it that I will also have to make new brake lines? does the steering shaft come off without pulling the steering column? I was hoping to have this car running soon but if I have to do all this work that will not happen!
Unfortunately the Z-bar mount make this more difficult. On AT cars you can just bend the existing lines to relocate the block to the top of the frame rail, but as you know, the Z-bar mount prevents that on MT cars. Unfortunately you'll have to find the best place for your car, and yeah, there might be some new lines required. At some point it might be easier to go with the aftermarket bracket that mounts the block under the M/C. Also look at the brake line that crosses over to the RH front brake on the crossmember. Depending on the headers it is sometimes necessary to move this line forward on the crossmember to prevent boiling the brake fluid.
If your dipstick tube is installed, getting the header over it is really tough.
1967 442 stock location:
New location in progress. The bracket is home made:
Nicely done. Good point on the dipstick tube. It needs to come out for header installation. Use a slide hammer. I've made up a special fitting for my slide hammer by welding two bolts head-to-head. The protruding bolt just fits in the end of the dipstick tube, and by gently clamping it in place with a vicegrip, I can pull the tube with no damage.
after I get the block moved what kind of issue's am I going to have installing my starter, oil filter and adapter back on? I was talking to a friend mine this morning and he said his friend had buy a kit to relocate his filter on his "GTO" because he could not put the filter on with the headers on, am I going to have to do this also?
I've never had a problem with the oil filter and headers, but every header manufacturer routes the pipes differently. I use the WIX 51049 filter whenever I can due to the extra size, but the 51258 is a slightly shorter option if you need the room.
You should not have to relocate the oil filter on your 442; you may have to buy a "mini" starter depending upon the clearance but most small tube headers for the Olds will have enough clearance for the stock starter. I was able to move the brake distribution block to the top of the frame with the brake lines attached on my '67, however, I did have to remove that support for the two lines coming from the master to the distribution block in order to accomplish that.
I fell kind of stupid about asking that question because I realized that all I had to do it put my headers on (motor is out) and do a trial run to see if I could put them on and take them off! I am going to see If my stock starter will fit next. I bought my SS headers from Mondello's and they are suppose to work with my 4 speed car! I had to put a dent in them though for mini starter clearance!
Is there a reason why you didn't just clock the starter closer to the block? That's the whole point of an adjustable mini starter. You can see the extra bolt holes on the mounting plate in this photo. Rotate the main body of the starter clockwise in this photo and the clearance problem goes away.
I must have been lazy and found it easyer to to F my header up! But I was just thinking the same thing when I was looking at the picture! not sure of how much room I will have for the wires but we are going to find out! thanks for the push!!
is this better? while I am here I have another question! since there is only one terminal (post) on the solenoid on the mini starter for the small wires instead of two like the stock starter. do I just put both small wire to the single terminal (post) (yellow with black strip and a purple wire)?
The small wires have completely different functions, so no you cannot simply put both on one terminal. The purple wire is the START circuit wire that goes to the solenoid. The other wire is the resistance wire bypass to the coil for the original points distributor. Do you have HEI or points? If you need the bypass wire, you need a diode to connect it to the one starter post.
that is where I was thinking of putting my block, but why not mount the bracket to the inside of the frame rail in stead of the out side? looks like you have to pull the fender to mount it on the out side!
when I look at the wiring diagram it show that the yellow wire is 12v to coil coming from the solenoid to start the engine and the pink wire is the resister wire coming direct from the ign. switch to keep engine running when you let off on the key(both of those wires are together in my harness) the purple wire (12v) goes to solenoid to start the starter so why can't I just connect the yellow wire with the purple wire to the single post, (it is 12v) and run another wire to the coil that has 12v with key on? or am I reading the wiring diagram incorrectly? I am running a MSD ready to run distributor!
The thicker pink wire is the resistor wire, the yellow is the bypass from the starter solenoid. Does the MSD require full 12V or is it designed to accommodate the resistor? In any case, you can remove the yellow wire and just run the MSD on the other one, but if the MSD requires full 12V you need to replace the resistor wire with copper.
I did some more research and you are correct about the diode (bought one from Summit) and the diode keeps voltage from back feeding to starter! American Auto Wire has a a video explaining this (gm starter wiring w/ mini starter) diode part# aww-500997
Last edited by Bills67; June 1st, 2022 at 07:58 AM.
I've never had a problem with the oil filter and headers, but every header manufacturer routes the pipes differently. I use the WIX 51049 filter whenever I can due to the extra size, but the 51258 is a slightly shorter option if you need the room.
I am about to do an engine swap. 1967 Cutlass Supreme with 330 moving to 455. Engine code: 396021 F with K heads.
1. Can you please suggest heads that will work with this swap? Also, it was suggest that I get coated headers (coating is a dull silver). Any thoughts?
2. I believe that 1967 Cutlass 330 (new) motor mounts are a direct fit for the 455?
You are correct about the motor mounts.
Can't help for info about heads or headers. I have a 67 CS convertible with a 455, 700R4, E heads, iron exhaust manifolds. If you use tall valve covers you may need a smaller brake booster. I have a 9" dual diaphram on my car.
Good luck with your swap.
I have the exact same setup. I have a 455 matched with a 700R4. I am trying to find the best fit long headers. There are quit a few posts on this subject on the forum.
I have no intention of replacing the heads, I think they will do just fine. The engine has been sitting in my garage for about 8 years. Next week we are going to take it to a shop and bench test as well as dyno before pulling the 330 out of the existing engine.
Spend the $300, in the long run you will be glad you did.....
I send all my headers to Jet Hot for their coating inside and out. Lots of advantages to include better engine heat management as well as permanently looking like brand new rather than the way untreated headers look after a few months. Jet Hot has lots of coating colors and options. You can chose internal and external coating.
This is one of their most popular color choices.....
Last edited by 442Dude; July 14th, 2022 at 07:19 AM.
May 30th, 2022, 09:50 AM
