pictures of my 1966 442
June 28th, 2009, 09:34 PM
#1
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pictures of my 1966 442
Hello, after 2.5 years of restoration and many engine problems (I loose oil pressure and damage the engine) finally Im done with my 1966 442 400 engine. All matching numbers. here are some pictures.
I'm still having a little problem with my brakes, I installed a very high camshaft and i'm not having enough vacuum, so my booster is not working properly. actually I have a 8" dual diaphragm booster with a 1" corvette master cylinder, thanks for any advices to solve my brake problem.
hope you like the pics
Alex
Guatemala, Central America
I'm still having a little problem with my brakes, I installed a very high camshaft and i'm not having enough vacuum, so my booster is not working properly. actually I have a 8" dual diaphragm booster with a 1" corvette master cylinder, thanks for any advices to solve my brake problem.
hope you like the pics
Alex
Guatemala, Central America
June 29th, 2009, 07:23 AM
#6
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Very nice looking, I really like the ghost flames on the hood and the interior color choice, that tan/fawn color is really, really nice with the blue. The engine bay looks cleaner than my wife's kitchen (don't tell her I said that).
June 29th, 2009, 08:11 AM
#7
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Alex,
Great looking car. I am also having problems with my brakes. I have the same booster and master cylinder in my 57 that you have in yours. Wondering if you bought yours on e-bay. No matter what I do I don't have enough brake and my cam in the 455 does allow for enough vaccum.
Great looking car. I am also having problems with my brakes. I have the same booster and master cylinder in my 57 that you have in yours. Wondering if you bought yours on e-bay. No matter what I do I don't have enough brake and my cam in the 455 does allow for enough vaccum.
June 29th, 2009, 10:41 AM
#9
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Alex,
Great looking car. I am also having problems with my brakes. I have the same booster and master cylinder in my 57 that you have in yours. Wondering if you bought yours on e-bay. No matter what I do I don't have enough brake and my cam in the 455 does allow for enough vaccum.
Great looking car. I am also having problems with my brakes. I have the same booster and master cylinder in my 57 that you have in yours. Wondering if you bought yours on e-bay. No matter what I do I don't have enough brake and my cam in the 455 does allow for enough vaccum.
June 29th, 2009, 01:28 PM
#10
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Join Date: Nov 2008
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I'm still having a little problem with my brakes, I installed a very high camshaft and i'm not having enough vacuum, so my booster is not working properly. actually I have a 8" dual diaphragm booster with a 1" corvette master cylinder, thanks for any advices to solve my brake problem.
1. The distribution block is sideways which will trap air and you won't get a complete bleed.
2. Your front brake line is running way too close to your headers and will damn near boil the fluid.
June 30th, 2009, 03:11 AM
#11
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Location: Korat, Thailand
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I had the same brake problem on a 389 Pontiac engine with 3x2s and a big cam, low vacuum pressure so I ran an electric vacuum pump. There are a few brands out there but Comp Cams has a good one. here's their write up.
A high lift cam in a performance street vehicle can offer up great sound and excellent performance. But if your car or truck has power brakes, a minimum of 16 inches of vacuum is critical to proper brake booster operation, something not always present if your camshaft features enhanced overlap. The COMP Cams® Electric Vacuum Pump ensures that your vacuum stays between 18 and 22 inches so you never have to worry whether your brakes will be there when you need them.
Triggered by a vacuum switch included in the kit, the COMP Cams® Electric Vacuum Pump requires a 12V negative ground system and only operates when vacuum drops below 18psi and then turns off over 22psi. The kit includes all of the parts necessary to install the unit along with wiring, hoses and brackets. The system utilizes a highly efficient electric pump, relay switch and distributor with vacuum switch, which should be mounted close together for the most effective performance.
A high lift cam in a performance street vehicle can offer up great sound and excellent performance. But if your car or truck has power brakes, a minimum of 16 inches of vacuum is critical to proper brake booster operation, something not always present if your camshaft features enhanced overlap. The COMP Cams® Electric Vacuum Pump ensures that your vacuum stays between 18 and 22 inches so you never have to worry whether your brakes will be there when you need them.
Triggered by a vacuum switch included in the kit, the COMP Cams® Electric Vacuum Pump requires a 12V negative ground system and only operates when vacuum drops below 18psi and then turns off over 22psi. The kit includes all of the parts necessary to install the unit along with wiring, hoses and brackets. The system utilizes a highly efficient electric pump, relay switch and distributor with vacuum switch, which should be mounted close together for the most effective performance.
July 1st, 2009, 03:17 AM
#12
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@ 442 Guatemala:
Hi! Nice job! Ever think about getting a set of original rims & hubcaps for when you go to meets?
Ref your problem: See the quote AND:
I had just the opposite problem- rear brakes wouldn't release properly & locked up after 1/2 mile or so. Turns out when I converted the single master cyl to dual the cylinder didn't retract all the way. Had to get a guide machined to keep the brake actuating rod (manual brakes!) lined up w/ the piston, then adjusted the rod travel. Works fine! Just thinking your problem might be the piston isn't traveling as far as it should.
Might be worth checking it out!
Ralph
With a 1" piston in the MC your brake issue is not likely a booster problem. From the pics I have two other possibilities.
1. The distribution block is sideways which will trap air and you won't get a complete bleed.
2. Your front brake line is running way too close to your headers and will damn near boil the fluid.
1. The distribution block is sideways which will trap air and you won't get a complete bleed.
2. Your front brake line is running way too close to your headers and will damn near boil the fluid.
Ref your problem: See the quote AND:
I had just the opposite problem- rear brakes wouldn't release properly & locked up after 1/2 mile or so. Turns out when I converted the single master cyl to dual the cylinder didn't retract all the way. Had to get a guide machined to keep the brake actuating rod (manual brakes!) lined up w/ the piston, then adjusted the rod travel. Works fine! Just thinking your problem might be the piston isn't traveling as far as it should.
Might be worth checking it out!
Ralph
July 1st, 2009, 02:36 PM
#13
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 108
I had the same brake problem on a 389 Pontiac engine with 3x2s and a big cam, low vacuum pressure so I ran an electric vacuum pump. There are a few brands out there but Comp Cams has a good one. here's their write up.
A high lift cam in a performance street vehicle can offer up great sound and excellent performance. But if your car or truck has power brakes, a minimum of 16 inches of vacuum is critical to proper brake booster operation, something not always present if your camshaft features enhanced overlap. The COMP Cams® Electric Vacuum Pump ensures that your vacuum stays between 18 and 22 inches so you never have to worry whether your brakes will be there when you need them.
Triggered by a vacuum switch included in the kit, the COMP Cams® Electric Vacuum Pump requires a 12V negative ground system and only operates when vacuum drops below 18psi and then turns off over 22psi. The kit includes all of the parts necessary to install the unit along with wiring, hoses and brackets. The system utilizes a highly efficient electric pump, relay switch and distributor with vacuum switch, which should be mounted close together for the most effective performance.
A high lift cam in a performance street vehicle can offer up great sound and excellent performance. But if your car or truck has power brakes, a minimum of 16 inches of vacuum is critical to proper brake booster operation, something not always present if your camshaft features enhanced overlap. The COMP Cams® Electric Vacuum Pump ensures that your vacuum stays between 18 and 22 inches so you never have to worry whether your brakes will be there when you need them.
Triggered by a vacuum switch included in the kit, the COMP Cams® Electric Vacuum Pump requires a 12V negative ground system and only operates when vacuum drops below 18psi and then turns off over 22psi. The kit includes all of the parts necessary to install the unit along with wiring, hoses and brackets. The system utilizes a highly efficient electric pump, relay switch and distributor with vacuum switch, which should be mounted close together for the most effective performance.
Thanks for the advice, Im going to check that vacuum pump.
a Guy from hotrodsusa told me to remove the booster and just install a manual master cylinder, is that a good idea??
July 1st, 2009, 10:10 PM
#14
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Location: Korat, Thailand
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In my opinion power brakes give you more stopping power in a heavy car than manual brakes. If you were driving a Ford escort i don't think it would matter but the Olds in a heavy car and would stop better with power brakes.
July 1st, 2009, 11:58 PM
#15
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REDROKIT is right- you need a really strong right foot if you need to stop a car that weighs around 3500lbs. The HotRod answer is OK if you're willing to live w/ that. I'm running manual brakes on mine, so I really leave a little more room between me & the car ahead! I can so that in Europe, as the German drivers are pretty disciplined. Not sure how drivers in Guatemala are, but I can imagine!!!
If you can, go w/ the electric vacuum.
Ralph
If you can, go w/ the electric vacuum.
Ralph
July 2nd, 2009, 10:29 AM
#16
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yesterday I was cheking my car and I see a little of brake fluid leaking on the rear side of the master cylinder, im going to check what is causing that problem, any Ideas?
July 2nd, 2009, 06:10 PM
#17
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Posts: 80
Bad piston O-Ring if it's leaking between the MC and the booster. If that's happening you found 90% of your problem.
July 6th, 2009, 10:29 AM
#19
Ben
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 1,826
REDROKIT is right- you need a really strong right foot if you need to stop a car that weighs around 3500lbs. The HotRod answer is OK if you're willing to live w/ that. I'm running manual brakes on mine, so I really leave a little more room between me & the car ahead! I can so that in Europe, as the German drivers are pretty disciplined. Not sure how drivers in Guatemala are, but I can imagine!!!
If you can, go w/ the electric vacuum.
Ralph
If you can, go w/ the electric vacuum.
Ralph
I don't agree with this. I actually prefer manual brakes to the overboosed power assist brakes. The problems you guys are having are the first reason, and the second reason is the big ugly booster in the engine bay. Looks much cleaner without it.
The master cylinder you use for Non-power brakes has a larger diameter m/c piston bore than the power brake master, so while it does have a little more pedal effort- it will still stop the car without a problem.
If you are into hardcore racing, those guys use hydroboost (use a booster that runs off your power steering lines) brakes.
July 6th, 2009, 10:40 AM
#20
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