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Tech Editor's DeskProjects, papers, writings, thoughts, musings of our technical editor Joe Padavano. To begin with, he will be making threads and can approve posts to it if he wishes. This can be changed in the future if it does not work out well.
Hi
I am just about to restore the A/C system on my 66 Toronado. It has not been used and has been sealed for many years. It looks complete and original to the car, The belt has always been off, so it could need anything and everything. I want to start with the compressor so I can determine what I have, Just pulled it off and it is not locked up and there is suction. I have a CSM and know other parts like the dryer and others will be replaced. Also learned a lot from bw1339's post in the archives from 8/25/16 with droldsmorland & MDchanic.
My original thought was to get a rebuilt unit until I discovered this A-6 isn't the less expensive version (pics.)
There is no switch as in High pressure or Superheat.
From what I have researched, these switches are for safety and there were several produced without them. I was going to give resealing mine a stab as it doesn't look that complicated and I have the tools. Who knows, might save a couple $ NOT.
If this fails, would I be okay going with a rebuilt with a HP or SH switch in it and if I did, would I have to change anything?
Also, your suggestions on how to go through the system would be genuinely appreciated.
My original thought was to get a rebuilt unit until I discovered this A-6 isn't the less expensive version (pics.)
I don't know what you mean. There's a more-expensive, and a less-expensive A6 compressor???
Originally Posted by streets
There is no switch as in High pressure or Superheat.
From what I have researched, these switches are for safety and there were several produced without them... ...would I be okay going with a rebuilt with a HP or SH switch in it and if I did, would I have to change anything?
I suppose that means you could get a compressor with either switch, and then just "not" connect it.
Originally Posted by streets
Also, your suggestions on how to go through the system would be genuinely appreciated.
I'd expect the factory service manual would have complete procedure. Might be in the "Unit Repair Manual" rather than the "regular" service manual. I would be tempted to use it as-is, if it holds vacuum and the pulley bearing is OK.
Should be able to use it with switch port either blocked or not connected. Energy to the clutch is what engages the clutch. The switches interrupt the clutch at certain high pressures. If it wasn't in the original compressor, not using the switch would be fine. Some R4 compressors are made to work with or without the switch by simply plugging the switch port.
A6's were very reliable, I agree with trying the one you have if it doesn't show problems. May want to have an AC shop pressurize the system with nitrogen first if going R12.
I appreciate your response. What I meant by the Plain Head compressors are more expenses comes from pricing new & rebuilt compressors out. On average Plain Head compressors cost more than those with switches.
I also agree with your suggestion to run it as it is and see how the system performs. The only issue with that is this is likely an original compressor and the seals are probably pretty crispy after 54 years and most of those sitting without lube or motion.
Saw a video on resealing an A-6 and it doesn't look difficult and you are correct on the repair section of the CSM. There is very good instruction in it with a breakdown of the compressor on 1A-54.
Thanks Sugar Bear.
The seal kit should be here by the end of next week and I'll get it done over the weekend. Excellent suggestion on the Nitrogen. We live in a rural area where AC shops are non-existent. I will start calling around Monday and see if I can find one that can do it in the larger metro-areas if there are any open due to the virus.