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I am installing my engine (with the transmission attached) and I have one motor mount lined up and pivoting on a screwdriver; however I cannot seem to line the passenger side mount holes up. Below are a couple pictures. Will someone please help me with this? I am sooooooo close! These are the Anchor motor mounts. I ordered a set and they came in both having the same part number so it appears that they are universal (i.e. not side specific).
X2 what RetroRanger said. If you put the bolt in place of the screwdriver first, that will save you a possible problem once the other bolt hole is lined up.
I had the same problem (except my issue was the drivers side) and I was getting very frustrated. I jacked up the engine two or three pumps and then released it fast but controlled. After three times of this it slipped right in and the through bolt lined up perfectly. Good luck!
Chris
I just went through that with stock mounts. I used a couple of tapered spikes and tapped them into both sides with a hammer. That pulled the engine to where it needed to be, removed one spike at a time and the bolts slipped right in.
Thanks everyone! Engine is installed; working on headers and starter issue now. I have a question: The original starter had three wires going to it. The Powermaster Mastertorque starter I bought only has use of two wires. How do I reconcile this? Here are two pictures...
Go to the Power Master web site and read about inatallation instructions and the "R" terminal diode kit. I put one on mine and it works great, Summit or Jegs also sell it, its about 22 bucks i think. Or find the diode somewhere else and make your own, probably cheaper.
The R-post on the original starter is for ignition coil ballistic resistor by-pass during start (when cranking). You only need it if you still use the original type ignition with resistor coil+ wire still in use. With Powermaster, you can create this full 12V when cranking with diode kit or a simple relay.
you can create this full 12V when cranking with diode kit or a simple relay.
The relay is extremely easy and costs about $5 at most auto parts stores. Run a wire from the S terminal on the starter to the relay coil and use the relay contacts to switch a feed from the batt terminal on the starter to the coil.
The relay is extremely easy and costs about $5 at most auto parts stores. Run a wire from the S terminal on the starter to the relay coil and use the relay contacts to switch a feed from the batt terminal on the starter to the coil.
Thanks Joe!
BTW, would you happen to know where I can find the power steering brackets for my 68? I seem to have misplaced the one that looks like this:
Does anyone sell them new? I have searched several online auto sites and none seem to have it. Maybe I'm not searching for the right stuff?
Edit: Sorry, I was confusing responses to too many threads...
No, no one sells that bracket new. It's not exactly a wear item. There are probably a bazillion of good used ones out there. I probably have one you can have for the shipping cost.
No, no one sells that bracket new. It's not exactly a wear item. There are probably a bazillion of good used ones out there. I probably have one you can have for the shipping cost.
If you don't mind, could you see if that would be possible (to send me one)? I can't believe I misplaced that bracket. I've been very meticulous about preserving all the parts over these years. I even had it a while ago right after I bought that set of PS mounting hardware from inline tube. I gave all the scrap metal I had off the car (which was a ton - maybe literally) to a friend and I bet it ended up in that pile.
I know this is more of a transmission question but rather than start a new thread I thought I would tack this on the end of one already started...
I have the shifter linkage that goes from the column shifter to the transmission for the original two speed trans. Will that same linkage work for the TH350 I installed?
September 7th, 2017, 06:59 PM
