Olds Rocker Arm Questions

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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 10:20 PM
  #1  
rcdynamic88's Avatar
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From: Lansing, MI
Olds Rocker Arm Questions

I'm getting the heads freshened up for my 330 and have a couple of questions about the Olds non-adjustable rocker arm set up.

Will slightly thicker head gaskets make any difference with the pushrod length? Its seems to be such a small difference, but will it change anything?

Since the lifters weren't ticking before, can I just bolt the rocker arm components into place and expect the same outcome?

Even though as I said, the lifters weren't ticking. I though I ought to replace them since I have it apart. My machine shop guy says that's not a problem. He said Old Cam/New lifters are OK, but New Cam/Old Lifters was not. He has replaced collapsed/damaged lifters before, and not had any problems with them hurting the existing cam or tearing themselves up.

What is the idea behind the Olds non-adjustable stuff? Is it because there is a "range" of lifter pre-load that is acceptable, and the Olds set-up puts the lifter somewhere within that "range"? Kind of like when you turn an adjustable rocker arm nut the typical 1/4 to 3/4 of a turn after you get the pushrod to set on the lifter nice and tight?

I was thinking about installing the adjustable stuff just because I am familiar with it, but since I am still using the stock cam it would seem the original parts will work fine. I could use the money that the adjustable kit would cost on something else that I would like to have for this car.
Old Oct 24, 2013 | 05:09 AM
  #2  
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As long as all the lifters were in good shape and not concaved, your good to go. Yes, you can use new lifters with an old cam The thicker gasket will drop your overall compression a bit, or you can have the heads milled for the difference between the old steel shim gasket and the new Felpro's. From past experience the new gskets will not effect your old rocker assy's unless they are really worn.

Last edited by oldcutlass; Oct 24, 2013 at 05:16 AM.
Old Oct 24, 2013 | 05:20 AM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by rcdynamic88
What is the idea behind the Olds non-adjustable stuff? Is it because there is a "range" of lifter pre-load that is acceptable, and the Olds set-up puts the lifter somewhere within that "range"? Kind of like when you turn an adjustable rocker arm nut the typical 1/4 to 3/4 of a turn after you get the pushrod to set on the lifter nice and tight?
Yes this is the case, there is usually a bit of excessive preload in the stock setup from the factory before a rebuild or parts wear.
Old Oct 24, 2013 | 07:58 PM
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Thanks you guys! The original lifters were not concaved at all, the outside bottom edges have some varnish on them, but the bases look great. They slid up out of the lifter bores with just a little half twist on the way up. The Camshaft lobes all look shiny and smooth too. I think the stock Oldsmobile valvetrain is going to be fine for what I want to do with this car. If you put all new stock type rocker arms and bridges on, they must also place the lifter somewhere in that acceptable pre-load range. Do the rocker arms and bridges wear out? Mine probably aren't since I had no valvetrain noise, but would new ones make any sense while I'm doing this work? Are they a "normal wear" item that just naturally would wear out over time?
Old Oct 24, 2013 | 08:06 PM
  #5  
oldstata's Avatar
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If you decide on doing a cam just remember to check bank angle 45* or 39* many shops have installed the 39* cam in a 45* block by not knowing there is two different blocks 65 should be 45* if it has not been swapped also cutlasefi does custom grinds
Old Oct 24, 2013 | 08:21 PM
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Rockers and perches do wear, they start to tick. They are still readily available and not expensive.
Old Oct 27, 2013 | 12:42 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
Rockers and perches do wear, they start to tick. They are still readily available and not expensive.
as far as i know, they come in 2 types. steel rockers with aluminum bridges, or steel rockers with steel bridges. i prefer the steel set.


bill
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