GATA79

Hey guys,
I am still pretty new here, but over the past few months I've been compiling a great hot 403 Olds build and felt it was time to move the build over here from 78ta.com for all of the Olds community to see. The purpose of the build thread for this motor is for myself to gain as much knowledge as possible when building these 403's, and to give a very comprehensive build for other guys just getting into 403's to have something to reference to. I haven't seen many largely detailed 403 information here, so I'm going to do my best to help everyone.

I'll update this first post as I keep purchasing parts, and as to why I've chosen each part. The thread over on 78ta is already about 14 pages long, so I'll go ahead and sum up a lot of the discussion and ways I reached each part in the next post.

For now, here's a run down of what I'm using for my 1979 Anniversary Trans Am 403:

-Erson custom grind hydraulic roller camshaft:

Lobe separation angle: 110+4
Overlap: 72
Intake Opens: 39
Intake Closes: 71
Exhaust Opens: 82
Exhaust Closes: 33
Valve Lift: .544 on both intake and exhaust
Duration: 290/294 (int/ex)
7/4 Swap

-PBM Roller lifters
-Ga cast iron heads

As far as the rest of the parts I plan to use:
-OldsPerformance flat top pistons, .030 over
-True roller double chain timing chain
-Dick Miller windage tray
-J&S main girdle
-ARP rod bolts/shot peened stock rods
-Big valves, 2.072/1.68
-Mallory ignition components
-Performer RPM intake (Still not sure here)
-Full roller rockers 1.6 ratio
-High volume oil pump
-Rebuilt Cliff Ruggles Quadrajet
-Electric fuel pump

I know I'm missing things, I'll add them as I remember or if you guys question if I'm missing something it'll jog my memory.

Hopefully this thread can serve as a great starting point for any other builds.

GOOD LINKS:

My original thread: http://www.78ta.com/HTAF/index.php?topic=38206.0
Assembling your short block: http://www.popularhotrodding.com/eng...k/viewall.html
Windage Trays: http://www.circletrack.com/techartic...h/viewall.html
4/7 Cam Swap: http://www.hotrod.com/techfaq/113_07...s/viewall.html
403 Info and some builds: http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofe403.htm
Big Block Olds heads data: http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofhed.htm#Heads 1964 - 1990
I got my custom grind done HERE: http://www.pbmperformance.com/store.php?catId=327



These 3 places combined have enough knowledge and parts to build the ultimate Olds motors! Support them, they're all good people.
Olds Performance Products: http://www.oldsperformanceproducts.com/
Dick Miller Racing: http://dickmillerracing.com/
J&S: http://www.jsmachineoldsmobile.com/
Feel free to comment, and post all over this thread! I want it to be a huge knowledge bank for 403s.

JJ

GATA79

Here's a quick run down of the discussions we had on 78ta about why I picked what parts:

Heads: The early SBO heads (350 etc), are great to bump compression in these terribly low compression motors. The reason I went with the Big Block heads (Ga castings) is due to the already large valves, and I'm building a torque build. With the block decked and the heads milled down to the 77cc range, they will be huge torque, and the oversquare bore of the 403 really like the huge chambers and valves in the big block heads. Either heads, small block or big block, worked correctly will work GREAT for these 403's, just need to get the compression up. The biggest thing, PORT MATCH the intakes! Performer RPM's have enough meat on them to port match, and it's worth it! Also, the RPM works great in the power range that these 403's strive. Also, run true duals and have those heat crossovers filled!

Pistons: It's really simple with the 403, go with OldsPerformanceProducts pistons. Give Andy a call and he'll help select everything for your build with the pistons correctly. The KB Hypers are running into all sorts of problems, and aren't as reliable or tested as forged aluminum. No one else makes a good over bore, and will take the time to help you figure out exactly what you need. That's at least how I reached my conclusion on what pistons to use. Feel free to draw your own.

GET YOUR ROTATING ASSEMBLY BALANCED!! For any engine, especially these windowed blocks, a balanced rotating assembly is a must! Just go ahead and get it done. ARP studs are also cheap insurance on your rods, go ahead and just get them opened up and put in. You'll be glad.

Here's the original thread, it's about 14 pages long and has ALOT of information about these parts. I'll post some pictures and hopefully everyone can chime in and keep this thread full of information and alive for future builds.

JJ

GATA79

Finally, I'll compile a months worth of pictures into this post:


http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7231102044/http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7231102044/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/76495204@N05/, on Flickr



Engine on the stand, all accessories, valve covers, valley pans etc removed:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7231106186/http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7231106186/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/76495204@N05/, on Flickr

Had a little "help" tonight with pulling some of the head bolts from the girlfriend, she's not bad with a wrench! :

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7231088776/http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7231088776/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/76495204@N05/, on Flickr

Finally off, flipped the motor over, and went to work on the underside. We got all but 2 pistons out before calling it an early night:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7231114964/http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7231114964/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/76495204@N05/, on Flickr


http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7298786596/http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7298786596/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/76495204@N05/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7298792324/http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7298792324/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/76495204@N05/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7298803548/http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7298803548/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/76495204@N05/, on Flickr


Here's a shot of the stock 403 cam:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7367421674/http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7367421674/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/76495204@N05/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7367424678/http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7367424678/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/76495204@N05/, on Flickr

Got my custom grind in! It's an Erson Roller Cam, cam cards final specs are:
Lobe separation angle: 110+4
Overlap: 72
Intake Opens: 39
Intake Closes: 71
Exhaust Opens: 82
Exhaust Closes: 33

Valve Lift: .544 on both intake and exhaust

Duration: 290/294 (int/ex)

7/4 Swap

These specs are at 110, not .050. I'll put the .050 if ya'll want.

Here's some photos:

Boxed up!:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7182206015/http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7182206015/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/76495204@N05/, on Flickr

The cam:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7182194147/http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7182194147/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/76495204@N05/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7367430392/http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7367430392/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/76495204@N05/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7182200215/http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7182200215/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/76495204@N05/, on Flickr

Erson Cam vs. 403 Stock cam:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7182203391/http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7182203391/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/76495204@N05/, on Flickr

The overall quality of this camshaft is flawless and beautiful. Cannot wait to get it in the motor and run it. Visually it looks great, no nicks, scratches, machine debris or anything. I highly recommend Erson and PBM.

That's it as far as the cam goes. Any questions, please feel free to ask! Anyone using a roller camshaft in the future remember you MUST buy a cam button to keep the cam from walking!


I have started restoring the pulleys and brackets on this car as well. New or restored ones from a parts supplier are upward 200 bucks! I restored these with a TON of elbow grease, and $8 rattle cans. I'll be posting a step by step that I use with photo's in the Restoration section when I start the next set of brackets:

A/C Bracket:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7367445010/http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7367445010/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/76495204@N05/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7182214565/http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7182214565/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/76495204@N05/, on Flickr

Water Pump Pulley:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7182185545/http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7182185545/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/76495204@N05/, on Flickr

Crank Pulley:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7182208873/http://www.flickr.com/photos/76495204@N05/7182208873/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/76495204@N05/, on Flickr

Hope you guys enjoy this post! If you have any questions about anything (Cams, my repainting of engine parts technique, parts selection etc) feel free to comment!

JJ