My apologies but i have spent quite a bit of time trying to figure this out by reading different forums and manufacturers websites. I need a set of headers for a 350 AT column shift and the concerns i have are:

1: Shorty or long tube
2: Heating up the prop valve (will shield it)
3: Heating up the starter solenoid (will shield it)
4: coated or painted
5: will they work with the stock column shift linkage or do i need the lokar kit
6: best brand/model from those who have experience with this setup

thanks in advance, i have done my research but cannot find any specific answers for this setup, especially the column shift part.

 

The column doesn't interfere with anything.
I have installed numerous sets on different cars,including A bodies.
My cars are drivers,not show cars.
I usually just use the basic Summit long tube headers.
They fit well and do the job.
$500 headers to me is wasted money,they look nice but give no more performance than the $99 set.

 

Sorry, but I disagree with this statement. I have used many different brands over the years on my SBs. The cheap ones do NOT fit well and have a tendency not to seal. Hookers seem to be one of the best out there. I currently have a set of Kooks (very spendy) on the car. Had them coated and they still look good. They also made more power on the dyno and on the track. You get what you pay for.

 

The only set of headers that ever leaked on me were the fist set I installed years ago.
I was young and did not fully understand how important following the directions were.
Using locking header fasteners,and letting the headers heat and cool a few times before running them on the street made a difference.
I'm sure you can find a few horsepower through trial and error when it comes to headers,but the $500-$1000 would make much more horsepower if they went towards head work.

 

You have been very lucky then. The only way you will spend a $1000 on street headers is if they are stainless steel. How long do your $99 headers last? My headers do what I expect and that's what counts.

 

Thanks for the responses. i think i will go with the Hedman painted long tubes, not tto much coin to risk and i sure cant afford 1K for headers, maybe on the next project.

 

Just read the installation notes on what ever header you decide to go with, there are some issues that are car or equipment related. I've had good luck with Heddman, although they are not perfect, they are functional!

 

Longevity also depends on the weather, of course. I've never installed a set of headers without sandblasting and painting them in hi temp paint. Also, always used the copper gaskets and coated them in Permatex copper sealer. Never used special bolts, though. Just run them through a few heat cycles and recheck after your first cruise.

 

I just installed a set of hookers today (craigslist olds 350),as usual a 4 hour job,as I had to remove the oil filter housing,etc.
They fit nice,I just don't have big bucks to spend on headers.
My rides are all good weather transportation.
I've never had much luck with header paint,as it always flakes right off.
These are the fasteners I use,available at autozone for $10.

 

Thanks again, those are some interesting looking bolts, how does that work? I have seen studs with hold in them for cotter pins to keep the nuts on but nothing like the ones in the pic. should get the headers tomorrow and will give the install a try. will post results when done.

 

Some times the bolts are hidden behind the header tubes.
Slipping on the locking pins would be a real headache.
I worked on planes for a short while,and every nut is safety wired,so they cannot loosen...same concept here.
The wire keeps the nut from backing off.
Still a challenge to fish the wire through the eye in the nut,but not impossible.

 

Well I did manage to get the headers in, I actually found some headman ones locally used and ordered some flow tech ones from summit. They both fit ok with some massaging, had to move train cooling Lines a little, bend the oil dipstick tube, and take good care of the positive battery cable. I chose to go with the flow tech ones because they had more room to connect the exhaust in front of the trans crossmember and cleared the brake dprop valve and other various things better than the headman ones.