358 Build (Part III)

The numbers for me were almost identical to the other 358 build that was on the dyno, Heads were milled down to 64CC, Compression should be about 9.7 435 HP 473 TQ. Petro Canada 94 Octane was used.

Main Parts:

Speedmaster BB heads
Trickflow valve springs
Trickflow retainers
Harland Sharp Roller Rockers (Marks)
Comp Hydrulic Roller Cam (Marks)
Comp Hydrulic Roller Lifters (Marks)
4100 Mahle Piston (Marks)
Scat Rods (Marks)
Edelbrock RPM 7111 Intake
Progression HEI Distributor
Oil Filter Adapter With Bypass Mod
Quick Fuel 750CFM Brawler Carb
CVF Olds 350 Pully Kit
Cloyes Timing Chain
Dura-Bond O-6B Cam Bearing
Clevite Main Bearing
Clevite Rod Bearing
Flowkooler water Pump
MLS Cometic 0.027 Head Gasket
Melling High Volume Oil Pump
PIONEER BB Oil Pan
All ARP fasteners

Dyno Pull:

 

Very nice, a long time coming Dave. Probably 100 HP over my current setup, shows what the Procomp heads and a roller cam can do.

 

Thanks bud, I'm thrilled, the heads were only milled, to bad I didn't have the funds for marks cnc on them. It wasn't without a few more hiccups, when buddy was bringing the engine to the dyno shop, he said he got brake checked and he hit his brakes, motor slid a bit breaking the brand new progression hei, 500 usa down the tube. I don't no why it wasn't secured better but it is what it is. The shaft broke and bent so it was a write off, just used the melonized gear on the cobbled hei. He had to cobble together another one just so we could get some pulls in, I didn't get as much time on the dyno as I wanted due to the problems. The timing was all in at 35 I believe.

 

Wow, that sucks. Pretty good despite the setbacks, there always those as you know. At least it is done so you can get it in and get some cruising before Winter.

 

Forgot the first page of the pull so I edited the first post to reflect the change.

 

Makes more sense now. Nice 400 ft-lbs from just over 2500 rpm.

 

They did spend time on the brawler, changing bleeds or squirters, checking the plugs with magnifying glass to where the dyno operator was ok with where it was, wasnt perfect by any means, the brawler has a metering block but the other side is a plate, I did over hear him talking to the builder about maybe down the road drill something out of the carb or something like that lol, I might have done a little better with my hei and really was looking forward to using it, I don't no if I could stomach buying another, prob over 700 after converting to CAD, ship, brokage, taxxxxx.

 

This is a perfect example of where a pull should start. It gives you everything you need to know for choosing a TQ converter for a street driven car.

a 2200 RPM start is not difficult. I’ve started them as low as 1,800. it’s also a bs wives tale that the first and second readings should be thrown out. if you want to know for example the numbers from 3,000 to 6,500, you start the pull a few hundred before and end a few hundred after..like 2,800 to 6,700 so it comes in clean and ends clean

when you get the engine in the car and running..do a cranking compression test. I could have lent you a nice quality distributor for the session..im only 20 minutes from Fonthill. By the looks of how the power fell of fast at the top end, that could be ignition related

 

Thanks for the insight Dale and the advice of starting the pull in the lower rpm, yeah I really wish that didn't happen, my buddy was not happy with me letting him off the hook without him paying for that in full canadian dollars. We also agreed on a set price and he jacked it up almost an extra grand, he basically made me pay for him breaking it, but he helped me out in a pinch so really I will just chaulk it up to an unfortunate accident.

 

Maybe you meant to say it a different way, but you just contradicted yourself here.
Just sayin.

 

So I have the motor transplant scheduled for the middle of Nov, I replaced the progression ignition HEI that the builder broke, and I have my electronic fuel system items from tanks inc, have a pic of what parts I bought for the fuel system. I must say it was so easy dealing with tanks inc and got all my pieces within 3 days of ordering is there anything you guys see that I missed or expected issues during swap? I will get the compression re checked when the motor goes in like Canadianolds suggested. I have a mini starter to go with this as well. I have new motor mounts to go in and a transmission mount. tank came with new gas straps etc.

 

Looks great Dave. Yeah, the Progression ignition should be really nice, change your curve in seconds. The aftermarket tank should easily feed your motor, no matter what. I should done basically the same as you and Rogue Ryder, skipped EFI and picked up Procomp heads instead, still may do that. Very impressive numbers wise, nearly 450 HP and closing in on 500 ft-lbs, should be wild to drive. I bet you can hardly wait for that spring test drive. Good luck with rest.

 

Yeah I hope the swap goes smooth, I have just the standard rad, and fan, hope the power steering bracket mates up with the aftermarket pulleys etc.

 

My last 9 to 1 350 never went above 195 with a recored original two core rad and the factory fixed 4 blade fan with no shroud. Of course we don't have City traffic here, even in our City's compared to you. A Summer heat wave in traffic will be the real test. A bummer here, is our company told my Boss, 10% ethanol is going in our 91 Premium gas, next month. I think we are last company without ethanol in our Premium. You can tell our Premium was non ethanol, a much stronger smell. I pump a lot of both, being my job. Fingers crossed on the install.

 

Well, I have the engine transplant scheduled to be dropped off on the 28th of March, he really busy so it will take some time and I will update things as they progress like the compression of each cylinder and such after its installed, Im going with an electric fuel pump so I need to have the new tank and everything it needs installed as well, I will keep this updated when I no more

 

Awesome to hear you will have it done for Spring and Summer cruising season. Mark should be sending my custom push rods this week and then I can finally set the valves, check compression and fire up my 358. The electric fuel pump honestly isn't a bad idea. My mechanical bleeds back and actually became air locked. I have my in tank fuel pump but need to regulate it from 63 psi to carb pressure. Is the fuel pump you chose, internally regulated?

 

Its an in tank walbro, I did get a regulator that will get it down to what it needs for a carb, think like 9 Psi or something around there.

 

That sounds good. Hopefully this shop is a good experience. Not looking forward to paying for 91 premium with oil climbing sky high, pardon the play on your name. Your cranking compression should tell you what you need for octane. Can you get 93 local? 91 non ethanol is as good as it gets within reasonable driving distance here. What timing did it make its max power on the dyno? I may be to get away with 89 or maybe 87 with a few less degrees but will lose power. I find the Olds V8 respond to aggressive part throttle timing. Your Progression ignition should be really sweet to instantly reduce timing if pinging is detected. Hoping for smooth sailing on your new motor. It should be really fun once you get it, all dialed in.

 

the timing was 35 and yeah shell has 93 or petro can is 94. I'm looking forward to the progression ignition