350 olds engine over heating issues

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Old Jul 15, 2013 | 05:57 PM
  #1  
BEERN420's Avatar
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From: MELROSE PARK, IL
350 olds engine over heating issues

I have a olds 350 motor with the edelbrock rpm performer package on it toped with a holley 750cfm carb, running High volume waterpump, 3 core all aluminum be cool radiator and duel electric fans and a flex fan recently added and I can not keep to car from overheating. Changed the radiator cap, flushed system, changed t-stat t0 160 degrees but I can't keep to car under 190-200 degrees at the low end while car is idling. Checked timing, idle rpm, and I am at a loss. Any help would be appreciated.
Old Jul 15, 2013 | 06:08 PM
  #2  
1BOSS83's Avatar
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From: Wilmington, DE
Originally Posted by BEERN420
I have a olds 350 motor with the edelbrock rpm performer package on it toped with a holley 750cfm carb, running High volume waterpump, 3 core all aluminum be cool radiator and duel electric fans and a flex fan recently added and I can not keep to car from overheating. Changed the radiator cap, flushed system, changed t-stat t0 160 degrees but I can't keep to car under 190-200 degrees at the low end while car is idling. Checked timing, idle rpm, and I am at a loss. Any help would be appreciated.

When did you switch the elec fans? Did you have any issue with the original set up?
Old Jul 15, 2013 | 06:59 PM
  #3  
RetroRanger's Avatar
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radiator shroud ?
Old Jul 15, 2013 | 07:04 PM
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Octania's Avatar
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"350 olds engine over heating issues
I can't keep to car under 190-200 degrees at the low end while car is idling. Checked timing, idle rpm, and I am at a loss. Any help would be appreciated."

Making mountains out of mole hills?
Since when is 190-200 "overheating"? Boilover is at about 240F on 50/50 mix pressurized to 15 psi or so. If it's not still climbing, and ejecting coolant, you are not "OVER" heating, you are just heating.

Checked timing... against what? Factory specs? If ANYTHING about your engine is altered- compression, cam, distributor advance curve... then you cannot expect factory specs to be optimal for your current combination. It is well known that retarded timing is good for emissions, and very bad for idle heating issues. You may find that advancing the timing some will make your engine happier. Is your vacuum advance in effect at idle? If not, consider trying that [run it from direct manifold vacuum]. If that and/or advancing the static timing gets you too much total, or pinging in the midranges, but alleviates the "overheating" at idle, then tailor the mech. and vacuum advance characteristics to limit the overall and/or part-throttle advance.

Why would you opt for dual electrics PLUS a... how can I say this... not so efficient flexy fan, in lieu of the factory's thermally controlled beasty *** clutched fan that fits right and works right?

Are you sure the electrics are in and wired correctly so as to blow [or draw] air front to aft? Stranger things have happened... like the feller that put a flexy fan for a serpentine belt system [counter rotating WP] into his car.... photos gave it away instantly.

How about some photos?
:-)

Last edited by Octania; Jul 15, 2013 at 07:20 PM.
Old Jul 15, 2013 | 08:28 PM
  #5  
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From: Poteau, Ok
I agree 190-200 is quite normal unless it creeps a lot higher at idle. Next question is what are your temps at hwy speeds and in traffic? What are your tuneup specs?
Old Jul 16, 2013 | 08:39 AM
  #6  
krooser's Avatar
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From: Central Wisconsin
Do you have a quality temp gauge with a good sending unit?
Old Jul 16, 2013 | 04:15 PM
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M-14's Avatar
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190-200 ain't over heating, the t stat rating isn't the max temp, its the min temp when warmed up.
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