about a year ago I put a 600 cfm eddy on the 307 in the H/O. When I did so I installed a Mr. Gasket inline fuel filter (clear view, replaceable filter cartridge) and the o-ring seal failed and filters turned into a garden hose of gas..onto a hot engine. I counted my blessings and replaced the unit thinking I had a faulty unit.

When the 350 went in, that replaced unit did as well.

Well, last Saturday we had a nice warm day up here and I wanted to stretch out the legs of the H/O and while it was coming to temp in the garage I could smell gas. I backed it out, popped the hood...and I was stunned; the filter had failed again and was leaking gas.

I replaced with a metal unit and wanted to pass this along to anyone using this product.

 

Wow thanks for the heads up, I installed one just before my fuel pump last summer and been using an Edelbrock aluminium filter before the carb. Haven't had any issues with it, but its well worth putting on another Edelbrock filter in before my pump and get rid of the glass clear view one.
Cheers
Eric

 

I've seen those fail numerous times, will not use them.

 

Good to know, thanks.
Glad you caught it before any major damage happened.
I am guessing it was made off shore like everything else
that fails prematurely.

 

Never use the glass and metal fuel filters, they are all junk! If I want a see through filter I use a Wix plastic 3/8" in/out 33003. I have never had one fail and I always buy the new extra wide stainless clamps for them.

 

The factory used a steel tube and a filter in the steel housing in the carb. The pressurized fuel is well contained with metal.

They were pretty clever.

Different is not equal to better

What is the purpose of seeeing the fuel, anyhow?
Either all is well and you don't need to see it, or it has a problem and you can see it all you like during the service procedure.

 

Factory also had a major design flaw with a threaded steel fitting screwing into a potmetal carburetor. Had they installed some type of steel or other more durable threads in the carb body, well, you get the idea.

I tend toward an inline steel or clear plastic filter on the pump suction line in addition to the carb fuel inlet filter. Knock on wood I've never had any fuel starvation problems using this setup.

3/8" (5/16" ftm) steel or plastic filters can be a trip to find anymore too. Last time I tried to get one at a chain, the counter jockey had no clue and kept wanting to know what car it was for. I said it's a universal filter and fits everything. "But, but I need to know what car it's for so I can look it up." I was about to go off on the kid when the store manager told him to go look in a certain aisle and bring the filter.

 

The Rochester filter housing nut is not a flaw unless its over tightened or the wrong tool used to loosen/tighten it. The inline metal and clear filters are readily available and I change mine every year. Never had and issue with them.

This is the filter the OP referenced:

 

I had one of those on my 72 Cutlass for several years. Then it went to leaking and I was fortunate it did not set the car on fire. I use WIX inline. I have an electric pump mounted inside the frame back by the tank and I have in inline filter between the tank and the pump with a changeable cartridge. I still use the inline filter at the carb.

 

As mentioned, those filters are awful. I had one fail right in the garage. Good Buddy had one fail on the road and torched his entire front clip before he could get it put out.

 

Are they failing because they are Chineseum junk or is it perhaps ethanol in gasoline causing the problem?. Back in the days of leaded gas I don't recall any problems.

Roger.

 

It was in the 70's I first saw a car burn up because of 1 of these, he using Sun 260. He thought they were cool looking.

 

I took them both apart and my theory is that the natural vibration of the engine bay loosens the interior threads just enough for the rubber grommet to "bow" outward and create a pocket of pressure that will split/crack allowing the fuel out.

 

They were part of that billet/hightech look that took over the streetrod world in the 90s. I think that unless they were secured in like an Adel clamp or something that would keep them from vibrating with engine and chassis harmonics, they were best not used. Plus they're also made of cheap chromed potmetal, thin glass and cheap rubber O-rings.

Re design flaw: I've had several Rochester units strip out fuel fittings more from age embrittlement than anything else. I've had the special fuel nut wrenches for years and they work as designed, but after so many years, potmetal just begins to disintegrate. That's when the problems start. Had they engineered a proper steel or brass thread fuel inlet, splined so it wouldn't twist in the carb body, a Rochester carb would be just about unkillable.

 

I use only a Wix Metal inline filter.

 

I've never had any problems with mine but you got me thinking .
Railguy

 

I use a big honking in line ( canister ) filter on the frame since i use a fuel cell. But on my dads car i used one before the carb and i bought one of these. I wont trust the cheap glass ones , or the plastic ones , The cheap metal ones i will but 35 bucks for a quality piece really is not bad.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl's/361/230...FQyNaQod9KMOVA

 

I'd strongly suggest you replace it. Also, PM me if you are looking to go to any shows, I am trying to get some locals together.

 

I've had one on my Impala for about a year now. No problems with it, but I just replaced it Sunday with Wix filter, after reading this thread.

I only drive that car when the whole family wants to go cruising, don't wanna take any chances.

Thanks for the heads up.

 

So I read through this whole thing and I'm unclear of one thing. Is your fuel filter before the fuel pump or after it?

 

After.

 

Currently after, but have run them before also.

 

The factory steel piped the line from the fuel pump to the carb for a reason. You had two failures with your current set up. That should tell you something.

 

What am I supposed to do with that?

The factory's are all gone. Overseas manufacturing rules the realm now. They piped it with steel because it was the best they could think of at the time. Just like...oh, lap belts, hand cranked motors and bias ply tires.

It did tell me something- the filter on there now is steel and it told me to spread awareness.


And for the record the first set up was a different....filter, carb, fuel pump, fuel line and motor.

 

Fuel tank, soft line, filter, soft line, fuel pump, steel line, carb

I've never had a leak

 

How dare you alter what car gods put on cars 40 some years ago?

 

When I read the word factory I smiled because I thought "the only thing factory about this motor is the casting number" Ha!

 

I simply wouldn't run an in-line fuel filter between the pump and the carb. But I'm just some old guy that's never blown a fuel filter apart

 

I'm reading you loud and clear but I question everything, always. That said, the onus is on Mr. Gasket for making this piece of ****. I searched this and I am finding that this is NOT an isolated problem to just me. While I search for the best long term solution I am comfortable with the full steel piece I'm using.

 

20160301_171315-1.jpg

I have a holley which has a filter in it . I might just do away with the glass one and just use one. I don't know springs a few mouths away and I just found out my driver side leaf spring is broken so probably the other side is to. Even if it s not I'm going to replace it. I just put in a limited slip differential and lower gears. Without taking the rear out . Now I m going to pretty much all but take the rear out. I was in the middle of installing the traction bars I got a while back.

Railguy

 

Had one of these same filters that failed... luckily I caught it on startup.