Has anyone had experience with the Olds Rocket Parts billet flywheel? I’m having issues with a chattering clutch. Everything is new with a dual friction Centerforce clutch kit. 185 miles on the parts and still chattering in some conditions. My machinist friend has a very low opinion of Chinese flywheel metallurgical properties. He thinks that is the source of the problem. I see the Rocket parts flywheels look identical to Speedmaster only double the price. I’m looking at US made flywheels but very hard to find an internally balanced 400 wheel. I’m not sure if I should just give it more break in time or change the wheel.

 

My only suggestion is for you to clarify what engine this is for. 400 could be early E block or later G block, and they are very different.

 

What flywheel do you have now? The rocket one?
RAM makes aluminum flywheels internal or external with either early or late bolt patterns.

 

My suggestion is to have your flywheel resurfaced using a Blanchard grinder or a vertical circular surface grinder. You want it smooth but not like a mirror.

I am with your machinist friend. Uniformity of the steel can vary from spot to spot. We "power tapped" threaded holes. And soft material would gum up and pack. Then the tap would snap off flush with the surface. Because they were packed with chips, you couldn't use tap extractors.

 

It’s an E block. I would rather use a steel flywheel. The one I have now is the Rocket/Speedmaster. If I get the wheel ground I’m not sure if it would be substantially different from when it was new. I’m also thinking about changing the disc to one with woven friction material on both sides.

 

Here's a photo of my flywheel. 67 400. I bought this flywheel from supercars unlimited when they were still in business. Its a McLeod flywheel,,billet steel. My machinist was very impressed with the quality of this flywheel.

 

I run a Science Friction neutral balance early bolt pattern from American Powertrain. ORP is probably just reselling the Speedmaster, in my opinion. Why do you want to replace like for like?
I believe clutch chatter is more a function of your disc design (1/2 kevlar) and gear ratio (or lackthereof). What is the rear gear ratio?

 

Thats a nice set of headers!

 

I would tend to agree...

 

My thinking also was the half woven and half Velvetouch disc is the culprit. I have a 65 Ford 427 sedan with a US made billet flywheel and the same disc and it is very smooth. Who knows? My Olds has a 2.20 low Muncie with a 3.90 rear. Thanks for the input.

 

American racing headers

 

Anyone checked for crank, flywheel runout and bell housing center.

I agree with nonchineasiun. This is a flywheel that if it departs at 5500-6500 its gona saw through anything in the way.

 

When I bought it I had no clue it was chicrap. The machine work was beautiful. I didn’t begin to think about the metallurgy. All the blurbs said it was high tensile aircraft steel. So much for that.

 

I’ll bet it’s the pressure plate, not the flywheel. My buddy had the same problem with his on a 70 Pontiac 455. It was the clutch.

 

The 2.20 1st doesn't help anything. Been there, done that. A 2.52, 2.56, or 2.99 would be a big improvement.
I burned through a CF (irony?) in short order with a 2.20 and 3.70s. I've since switched to a twin disc organic with a 2.99, and it's night and day difference.

 

I’m going to slip the crap out of it to see if that helps, I’ve got nothing to lose. I’ve used Center Force clutches before and no problems. Is it really a problem if you can fix it with money? I used to love Scheifer rev lok diaphragm clutches, smooth never any problems with slipping. Since the asbestos is gone from the linings it seems like they are going to material that is more touchy. If I can’t slip it and get it bedded in, I’ll get a better flywheel and a decent pressure plate and disc with woven lining and try that. Everything else is new except the block this should not be too hard too fix.

 

I never believed you could "bed in a clutch". Once around the block and you should be ready to go. Clutch disc materials could make a difference. What cam are you running in the engine ?

3.90 and 2.20 low isn't bad. I always liked 4.10 or 4.33.

If you decide to change flywheels, check run out of the flywheel clutch surface before you remove it. And check flywheel clutch disc surface run out when installed. .Good luck.

 

Ralph, the cam is a Lunati from Mark Remmel. 238-245 at 050, .560 lift flat tappet. I forgot the lobe center. You don’t want to know how hard it was to get the center carb to work with the low vacuum! I agree on bedding the clutch but Center Force says to wait 500 miles before it is broken in. So far I’ve got about two hundred miles on it.

 

I run a McLeod RST, and am on number 3. It grips good enough to strip the teeth off 1st gear in the trans. Their break in is rather extensive- i think it's 1200 clutch cycles or 750 miles. It will glaze if you don't break it in, just like bedding in brake pads to rotors.

 

Have the center carb idle bleed tubes been opened up? You can remove the power valve and jet it up to maybe help.

 

That would seem to be a "healthy" cam. I ran the 1966-67 W-30 cam with L-69 "E: block and didn't have problems.

Gear teeth fatigue with time and "load". I lost everything but high gear and reverse one time on the starting line. We were limited to 7" wide slicks, so I used all the tricks known to man for traction. Launching at 3500 to 4000 RPMs creates a lot of shock on everything. Yes, I broke a few rear differentials too.

PM sent.

 

Haven't received a PM from you Ralph.

 

Mike, Just finished sending it.

 

I opened the idle restriction .002” and drilled 1/16” holes in the butterflies to get them closer to the right location. I also clipped some coils off the power piston spring. All this helped, it is a lot more drivable but the idle mixture screws are out 4 1/2 turns so the idle is still lean.

 

The idle bleed tubes are appox. .030 or .032 from the factory. They can be opened to .040. What's the jetting in the carbs? I know when I built them they had stock jets.

 

Center carb has 60 jets now. Is it advisable to open the holes a little where the mixture screws come through?

 

The center carb has .060 jets now? they come stock with .063 and I jet up to .065 when an engine has a better cam. The end carbs are .068 stock and I jet up to .070 for the same reason. The holes for the idle mixture screws should be .070 stock and I've never opened them up. Drilling the center carb plates can help with an engine with a larger cam but all that does is make it draw more fuel @ idle. If you open the idle bleed tubes up that will also help. Are you sure about the .060 jets?

 

Yes, I sent the carb to C&S carburetor in Missouri with a wet flow bench all the bs. 6 months and $250 later I think all he did was change the jets. The biggest problem now is off idle when I let the clutch out, it blubbers a little bit then clears out. My afr gauge also shows it is going rich then. I’m pretty sure it is the power valve as I only have 10” vacuum at idle and less when I put a little load on it. I hate to block the power valve as I have no idea how much to jet it up. I’ve already clipped some coils off the power piston but it’s hard to tell when it’s the right setting. If I get to open at about 6” I think it would be perfect. Right now it’s running really well, just that little off idle glitch.
Right now I have 69s in the end carbs.

 

Interesting info, thanks.

 

If they put .060 jets in the center carb you need to find another carb shop.

 

[QUOTE=66-3X2 442;1648141]If they put .060 jets in the center carb you need to find another carb shop.[/
Were you the one that rebuilt the engine? It had 5 forged pistons and 3 cast.

 

[QUOTE=Fpcopo;1648173]No I did not rebuild the engine. I did the carbs for the original owner years ago. When I bought it I did not do anything to the engine. I'm smarter than to mix pistons in an engine.

 

I took it apart because the rear main was leaking badly. It’s really a nice car.