Title says it all.

Just getting this beast ('73 Delta covertible) properly on the road after previous owners ran it as a cobbled-together mess.

It always had a bit of a vibration, but now with new tires, springs, shocks, sway bar, poly UCA bushings, steering box, tilt column, wheel alignment, and a tie rod end, a good run shows the vibration is unchanged.

It shakes the whole car, and the gas pedal, but not so much the steering wheel, and is worst at 65mph and when letting off the gas, and is related to speed but not RPMs.

So, seems like a driveshaft to me.

All the cars in the local yard are sunk in the mud, so I've gotta reach out and see what's out there.
Shipping won't be cheap, so someone I can pick it up from would be best.

So, anyone between Maine and NJ have a straight 2-door full-size driveshaft for a reasonable price? Cheap is good, of course, since I'm not even sure if it's the problem.

Thanks,

- Eric

 

Just make sure you get one that's had the CV ball update so it can be greased. The original ones had no way to lubricate the CV ball short of tearing the thing apart and after a while they go dry and develop this annoying little mouse squeak. Bad cases will show up as vibration.

Even the updated ones need to be lubed about every other oil change, or they'll squeak too. The updated ones have a ball-type grease fitting that requires a grease needle to lube, but it beats hell out of having no way to lube it at all.

Never saw what was wrong with a good old-fashioned U-joint meself.

 

Why don't you get yours balanced

Fleet Pride
1 Glasgow Road
Scarborough, ME 04074
207.883.9910

They shortened my driveshaft & balanced it for about $80.

 

Allyolds -
I'll have to look into that.
Basically, I'm just concerned that it might be bent - the balance weights are welded on, and I can't vouch for what some past idiot might have done, like hanging it up on a rock or jacking it up on the driveshaft.

Rocket -
Are the symptoms of a bad joint different than the usual?
In the past when I've had bad U-joints, I've felt and heard them clunking.
This one feels rock-solid, even when I lie under the car and turn it by hand.

I'll look for that grease fitting.

- Eric

 

did you try running it with rear wheels off the floor,you could try with wheel/tires both on/off,may be able to narrow it down.if shaft is bent a drive shaft shop should be able to replace the tube.

 

Good question.

I have not tried running it with the wheels up, mostly because this is the first time I've had it out and running at speed since making all of the suspension changes. With two broken front springs, worn-out low-grade shocks, a skinny sway bar, loose UCA bushings, and bald Laredo truck tires, it rode like crap, and I expected it to.

With the current setup, I can now see where I stand, and narrow down the rest of the things to fix.

I'll try running it up on stands as soon as I get the time to do it, but, since the real vibration doesn't come until 65mph, I admit I'll be a bit nervous about letting 'er rip - I could make quite a mess if she falls off the stands!

And thanks for the FleetPride address, Mike! I had no idea that they were there or that they did driveshafts. It's not far from me, and if it really looks like the shaft, I can just spin right over and drop it off.

- Eric

 

You don't need or want to spin it fast at all to detect a bent/dented driveswhaft. Actually, it would be good to have someone in the car dragging the brakes a little. If you use a fixed referrence point, like the frame, you'll see the driveshaft "hop" if it's not true. I've found a number of bad shafts this way; use to work at an Olds dealer many moons ago.

Bob

 

length? I may have one in the shed.

 

I'll have to measure it tomorrow morning (in the rain...).

It looks like there's a place near me that can balance or straighten it (if it's really bent or wobbly), but I'd be happy to get one from you if you're not too far out of the way.

Where are you located?

Thanks,

- Eric

 

The one that dedsleds has should be the same. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...up-6-14-a.html
Dunno what it would cost to ship though.

 

Well, yeah, that's just the thing.

If I can get it balanced near where I live for less than $80, why spend more than that to get a used, unknown one shipped?

- Eric

 

54" from C/L to C/L of U-joints, shaft only, not including CV joint on the back.

I need to go dry off now.

- Eric

edit: As discussed in this thread, my driveshaft is too short - correct length is actually about 55".

Have reposted a Wanted message here.