Yesterday I buttoned up the front of the engine, installed the rebuilt steering pump, fan, shroud, and all the new belts. I used my ancient belt adjusting tool, one of the best cheap tools I have ever owned, although I had to use a bit of duct tape to hold a loose end in place. I finally got a call that the new radiator arrived for the second time, this time in undamaged condition! I picked it up on Thursday and am very pleased, it a virtual duplicate of the original. The only difference is the high efficiency core which has more cooling tubes than the stocker. I transferred the drain petcock and trans cooler fittings and will finish up the install tomorrow. I bought new rubber spacers for the lower radiator brackets from Steele as the old ones were all but gone.

 

VERY NICE!! Where did you get your radiator from anyway? I wouldn't mind upgrading to more cores if it would still fit without problems.

 

The radiator is made by U.S. Radiator in California, they offer three cooling levels starting with stock, I upgraded to the middle level which they call High Efficiency. Here is their website:

http://www.usradiator.com/oldsmobile...-radiator.html

As you will see, it's not a cheap part but with what they charge to recore a stocker today this way I got a completely new rad. I also bought from a local dealer rather than direct from them which saved me close to $100.00. It was a perfect fit, all the stock fittings bolt up, and once it's in the car the only way you can tell it's not stock is that it doesn't have "Harrison" stamped on the tank.

 

Ah very cool. I think the rad. for my 62 has been redone very recently.. but my 68 442 needs a new radiator. Someone in the past put in a 455, but it still has the 3 row rad.. so I hope to try to upgrade a bit without having to change the top plate and all that noise. I appreciate the info!! I will have to see about putting in heavy duty suspension or not later on too. I am getting a to do list together so I can at least get one car on the road here soon

 

I have finally got the car back together and driveable. I'm happy with the appearance of the engine detailing but now the areas I DIDN"T do such as the hood underside and inside fender edges really look bad. I still have to install the new "Starfire" pieplate on the air cleaner but the rest will have to wait.

As per everything I do with cars I had some challenges - big surprise. When I first started and drove the car the transmission didn't want to shift properly and was slipping. I had added fluid after the spill I had but apparently did not wait long enough for everything to circulate - turned out it was almost two quarts low! Once the fluid was up it ran fine. Next I found out the alternator was not charging, and it's brand new! After checking all the connections and running voltmeter checks I found that the metal field connector at the regulator had popped out of the housing and there was no contact - easy fix and now it's charging fine. There was no improvement to my brakes from the o-ring installation, I'm wondering if my booster may have given up the ghost. I'm going to experiment by removing the vacuum source and seeing if there is any difference, we'll see. Here are some before and after photos:

 

Don, that engine bay is looking pretty spiffy. Not a lot of room to work so it was quite a task to get everything clean. Of course, having the rad out made it a bit easier I suspect.

Good job!

 

Your engine bay is looking excellent and you didn't even remove the engine. I think I might have to do the same thing.

 

Thanks. It would have been impossible with the radiator in place. The main reason this took so long was that I removed more and more stuff before I painted - radiator/hoses/shroud, fan/pulley, alternator, steering pump/brackets, battery cables, dist. cap/wires/wire looms/coil, vacuum hoses, heater hoses, engine wiring. etc. I had to leave all the A/C stuff in place which made it tough to mask and work around, it would have been a LOT easier with a non-AC car.

 

Hey, I posted this before but got no response - I really need some help from the 63 Starfire experts out there. As part of cleaning up my engine compartment I would like to add any decals or labels that would have been factory original. I already have replacement aluminum air cleaner signs but I do not know what else is correct. Can anyone post photos showing the location of any labels and also advise where they are available as reproductions?

 

Jamies Blue 63 (4).JPG

Jamie's car Firewall (2).jpg

Jamie's car Front Clip.jpg

Here are some partial pictures that I have. The first one shows the air conditioning decal, the next shows an air cleaner decal and the last one is a fan warning decal. This 63 Starfire was judged and scored over 960 points at a meet. I will try to find out where he got the decals or if he has better pictures of them.

 

Thanks, that would be a big help.

 

decal pics for Diino '63 starfire 001.jpg

decal pics for Diino '63 starfire 002.jpg

decal pics for Diino '63 starfire 003.jpg

decal pics for Diino '63 starfire 004.jpg

decal pics for Diino '63 starfire 005.jpg
I got some better pictures of the decals and where they go. You can get these from Dr Decal. I think the website is www.drdecal.com. You can also get inspection stickers for the year of your car and the state you live in at www.inspectionsticker.net. I hope this helps you.

 

Thanks much, that is a big help. I will check out Dr. Decal.

 

Don, I forgot to tell you about www.rubbertherightway . They also have all the decals you would need and some other things that "Santa" might put in your stocking, (that is only if you have been good).

 

thanks Dino, I'll check it out - and I have been good...

 

We are finally having decent weather so I got off my butt and am working on my Starfire. One of the major projects is cleaning up the interior and installing new weatherstripping, it is all original and falling apart. When I go for a ride I can't enjoy the sound of the car due to all the whistling wind noise! In addition the rear windows are very reluctant to lower to the point I never put them down, so I decided to start in the back. I pulled out the rear seat and upholstery panels on both sides along with some of the hard trim.


The rear window metal access panels are covered with sound deadener and have never been removed, I had to scrape some off to find the screws. I used 50W oil and white grease to lube up all the tracks and rollers, running the windows up and down many times to free everything up. One interesting thing, the curved part of the quarter windows at the back is unique to the Starfire but I always assumed they used the same squared off window like the Pontiac Grand Prix and covered it with trim. WRONG! It is actually a unique frame and glass with the curve.

 

Once I got the rear windows working right, I started on the weatherstripping. I actually purchased a full set from Fusick when I got the car, everything except the vent window rubber. The door seals are A&M Soffseal and everything else is from Steele Rubber. I replaced the seals at the front edges of the quarter windows, the U-shaped seals at the top of the quarter panels, and the roof rail seals. The old seals literally crumbled as I pulled them out and went right in the garbage can. The new ones were all very easy to install and fit perfectly, I recommend Steele products highly.


At first I had trouble closing the doors against the new seals, no surprise since the old ones didn't even make contact. I went back and wiped them down with liquid silicone plus cleaned up the window frames and it worked much better. After leaving all the windows up and doors shut overnight it all works great.

 

The rear seats in my car were redone in vinyl by the previous owner to match the front buckets that were recovered earlier. He also replaced the rear package tray mesh style trim. Unfortunately he never touched the door panels and rear side panels and they were just filthy. I scrubbed everything good with Fantastik and a brush and they cleaned up pretty good. You can see the difference against the front door panel which I have yet to do. There is some color variation in the side panel vinyl but it won't show with the seats back in.

 

Don R. Your car is looking great! The methodical attention to detail will keep me watching this one!

 

Very nice! I need to do that too all my windows! I will have to adjust one of the doors too before I try to add new weatherstrip.

 

Thanks Ben and Viper. I cleaned and reinstalled the passenger side panels today, hope to get the seats back in tomorrow. While they are out I removed the cardboard panel to access the trunk, my rear window defogger had come apart due to me trying to fit too large a tire up on the spare tire shelf. I was able to get the flex ducts back on the pipes but the fabric/rubber is pretty dried out. I had to cheat with some duct tape but it's all in place and works now.

 

I finished up the back yesterday, got the rear seat back in and finished cleaning everything, looks pretty good. The next project will be the doors and door weatherstrip and a detail cleanup of the carpet and front seats.

 

While I was cleaning up the rear interior panels I noticed the design of the cigarette lighter ****, a fairly intricate cast piece that matches most of the dashboard ***** and echos the design of the steering wheel. One of the reasons these old cars are so nice to look at compared to the plastic blobs we see today...

 

Wow that is one beautiful interior. Funny, you have a black over white and I have just the opposite. Love the progress, thumbs up.

 

Thanks Dutch.

 

Looking awesome.

 

Yesterday I bowed to "industry recommendation" and replaced the two BFG Radial T/A tires on the rear of my Starfire. When I originally put the Chevy cop wheels on the car, these tires were mounted on them and looked to be in great shape, so I bought two new tires to match and bolted them up. I recently found out that these two tires were 10 years old and I also remembered I bought them at Sam's Club and was told by BFG that they were "Walmart Spec" tires, similar but not the same as "regular" BFG T/A's. I am driving this car more on the freeways now so even though they still looked great I succumbed to the scare articles and horror stories and replaced them. In partial kickback I wanted to reuse one of them as a spare to replace a very bald and crusty old cop tire, so I asked Discount Tire to include that in the work. I was very surprised and pissed when they told me they could not mount a tire more than 8 years old due to liability concerns! They did remove the old cop tire but I had to go to a local tire store to get the old BFG mounted. Has anyone else run into this?

 

My wife and I recently sold our second daily driver car and tried living with one car. We are both retired so we thought it might work but it really didn't because we are both used to being able to jump in a car and go. I seriously considered turning my Starfire into a (semi) daily driver to the point of making a list of things needed and even considering a front disc brake conversion. In the end it all felt wrong and I just couldn't do it. I lucked out and found what I consider to be the perfect beater, a 1996 Chevy Caprice 9C1 LT1 ex-Santa Clara County, CA unmarked police car. Just out of service, under 95,000 miles and in great shape. I had a 95 9C1 many years ago and have a lot of experience with these plus I still have a set of Impala SS alloy wheels that will bolt right on... So my Starfire will remain safe in the garage and (mostly) stock.

 

I have been following all the work you have done with your car! I will have to get with you to see how to hook up the rear defroster. I bought a complete setup but haven't installed it yet. While I have my intake off I am going to do a lot of engine bay work and hopefully move toward interior stuff soon

 

Let me know if you need more photos of anything, glad to help.

 

That would be awesome! I also have to install the trunk release to install. Once I get the engine back together and car running I can mess with the other fun stuff

 

Guys - I'm considering buying a 64 Starfire convertible. Have not seen it yet but I understand it's in very good shape. I can't do many of the engine/transmission repairs myself. Is it difficult to find parts or people familiar with the 394 and the Slim Jim tranny?
Thanks!

 

That is a beautiful car and the vert is a good investment if the price and condition are right. Like buying any other car the key is to buy the one that is in the best condition. If possible inspect the car in great detail and drive it under all road and speed conditions before buying. With my 63 I was told both the engine and trans had been rebuilt and the running condition of the car backed that up. I did have to do a lot of work on the brakes and suspension plus little detailing stuff I have covered in my thread. Finding a reliable shop to do any type of mechanical work on car this old is not easy but not impossible, if you don't have personal knowledge of a shop's qualifications get recommendations from other car owners. Use this forum plus local clubs and car shows. Definitely join the OCA and their local chapter. While the big cars are not as popular as the Cutlass / 442's there are still a lot of folks that are into them

 

Wow, that appears to be a really high option car, I hadn't noticed the headlight dimmer and wonderbar radio before. Mine has neither of those and roll up windows to boot.

 

Yeah, that's one reason I bought it. It also has A/C, power seat and antenna, rear defogger, posi, and front seat belts. It stickered for over $5300 in 1963 - that's why you don't see that many of these around!

 

I finally finished off my air cleaner with reproduction pie pan and High Compression aluminum stickers from Fusick, now I can open the hood at cruise-ins...

 

Looks very good. I need to paint the valve covers silver on my engine as the PO just painted everything one color.

 

OK, I am pissed and need some help. Based on some recommendations from another forum I glued my new air cleaner pie pan on with 3M Super 77 Spray adhesive. I followed the directions, put weight on it and let it cure for a few days. It seemed like it was fine until I took it to a small show this morning - as soon as the engine heated up the adhesive released! I opened the hood and the thing was popped up almost all the way off and I would have lost it. I pulled it off and saw uniform coverage of the glue on both surfaces but it couldn't take the heat. Anyone who has done this successfully please tell me what adhesive you used and any other hints to get this stuck down for good!

 

I used 3M Auto mix 08115 panel bonding adhesive that I got from a friend that is a body man. It is still on and I did it a couple of years ago.

 

Thanks Dino, any tricks to the application?