Engine Bay odds & ends

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Old Feb 3, 2025 | 10:18 AM
  #1  
brotherGood's Avatar
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Engine Bay odds & ends

I know I'm probably getting ahead here, but after being in single digits over the last couple of weeks, today we're in the 50's so naturally I'm itching to get back out to the garage.

While the engine is out, I pulled the fender liners to repaint them. I am also planning on repainting the firewall. While all of this is out, I had a couple of questions regarding things that had just kinda bothered me.

1. How do I mount the battery tray correctly? I know this sounds ridiculous, but it was mounted perpendicular to the tire..meaning when hooking it up, the positive terminal was actually up under the fender. It's not a deal breaker by any means, I had just been under the impression that it should be mounted so that the battery is parallel to the tire (I'm sure there's a better way to put it, just not sure how).

2. Is there somewhere to get the clips that hold the fender liners in place/the bolts screw into? A couple of them were missing, so I'd like to get them replaced while everything is still apart.

3. Mini-starter options. What is the go-to mini starter for the 400G? And..is it worth it vs the OE style starter.

4. Is there a way to remove the cowl screen without removing the weather stripping? I'd like to not only repaint that area (both on top and within the cowl) but clean up the screen a bit (if not get a new one)

Thanks.
Old Feb 3, 2025 | 11:05 AM
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My engine bay is pretty much unrestored original and still presentable by my standards, so I can't really help there. However, my 0.02 on #3 is: Powermaster 9510. I installed one in place of a tired Bosch some years ago and have never looked back. I also have a '69 with its original G-motor.

BTW, curious about "repainting" the inners ... are yours steel?
Old Feb 3, 2025 | 04:14 PM
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VI Cutty's Avatar
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- To the best of my knowledge, battery is lengthwise (parallel to the tire) with the negative toward or sort of under the core support (at least that's how they are on my 70, 71 and the other 70-72's I've messed with
- I got an inner fender install hardware kit from Fusick, I think it was. Assorted supply houses carry specific hardware kits...Fusick, The Parts Place, OPGI may have some, Olds Parts.
- I put a Powermaster 9510 into my 70 with a 455. The body can be rotated for adjusting clearance although I didn't find it necessary.
- assuming the weather stripping is installed the same as on my '70, there are plastic push pins that hold the weather strip and the screen in place. They go through closed holes on the screen so you won't be able to pull it out without removing the pins.
Old Feb 4, 2025 | 04:38 AM
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Originally Posted by BangScreech4-4-2
My engine bay is pretty much unrestored original and still presentable by my standards, so I can't really help there. However, my 0.02 on #3 is: Powermaster 9510. I installed one in place of a tired Bosch some years ago and have never looked back. I also have a '69 with its original G-motor.

BTW, curious about "repainting" the inners ... are yours steel?
The inners are plastic, they're just faded really bad. It is odd though, there are some spots on the underside (where the wheel is-portion of the liner) that look like they've not only rubbed at one point, but are red underneath. This is not a W-30 car, so that took me for a minute.

Originally Posted by VI Cutty
- To the best of my knowledge, battery is lengthwise (parallel to the tire) with the negative toward or sort of under the core support (at least that's how they are on my 70, 71 and the other 70-72's I've messed with
- I got an inner fender install hardware kit from Fusick, I think it was. Assorted supply houses carry specific hardware kits...Fusick, The Parts Place, OPGI may have some, Olds Parts.
- I put a Powermaster 9510 into my 70 with a 455. The body can be rotated for adjusting clearance although I didn't find it necessary.
- assuming the weather stripping is installed the same as on my '70, there are plastic push pins that hold the weather strip and the screen in place. They go through closed holes on the screen so you won't be able to pull it out without removing the pins.
Thats what I thought too on the battery (lengthwise) but the tray was put in the other way. Not sure if that was done when the car was apart in the 90's to be repainted or what, but I can't figure out how the tray is 'supposed' to mount, if correct is parallel to the tire.
Old Feb 4, 2025 | 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by brotherGood
1. How do I mount the battery tray correctly?
The PIM shows you exactly how to mount it.








2. Is there somewhere to get the clips that hold the fender liners in place/the bolts screw into? A couple of them were missing, so I'd like to get them replaced while everything is still apart.
Those J-nuts are sold pretty much everywhere. I like AMK for hardware like this.

3. Mini-starter options. What is the go-to mini starter for the 400G? And..is it worth it vs the OE style starter.
Your call on is it worth it. Most of my cars have stock high-torque starters.

4. Is there a way to remove the cowl screen without removing the weather stripping?
Nope. The snap-in fasteners that hold the weatherstrip also retain the screen. Just pry them up gently with a flat blade screwdriver.
Old Feb 4, 2025 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
The PIM shows you exactly how to mount it.










Those J-nuts are sold pretty much everywhere. I like AMK for hardware like this.



Your call on is it worth it. Most of my cars have stock high-torque starters.



Nope. The snap-in fasteners that hold the weatherstrip also retain the screen. Just pry them up gently with a flat blade screwdriver.
Good call, I forgot I had one of those manuals too. I guess thats what happens when you put them in the cabinet rarely used to keep them safe-you rarely use the cabinet and forget they're there.

As far as the starter goes, I swapped out the cinder block of an old school Mopar starter on my previous headache for a newer Denso starter. After spending hours on removal, the 10 minutes to reinstall the starter that cranked faster and weighed a fraction kinda sold me on the idea. Now, that was also a $30 JY score, but if there was a compatible swap..or even if the aftermarket starters were about the same price point as a factory replacement, I'd might as well.
Old Feb 4, 2025 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by brotherGood
The inners are plastic, they're just faded really bad. It is odd though, there are some spots on the underside (where the wheel is-portion of the liner) that look like they've not only rubbed at one point, but are red underneath.
I don't think you can just paint them if they're plastic. I know I've seen threads on CO about restoring the red W-30 ones. I'll do some digging and see if I can retrieve anything useful.
Old Feb 4, 2025 | 05:54 PM
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VI Cutty's Avatar
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Originally Posted by BangScreech4-4-2
I don't think you can just paint them if they're plastic. I know I've seen threads on CO about restoring the red W-30 ones. I'll do some digging and see if I can retrieve anything useful.
I think original red fenders are worth the time to restore, but black ones can be painted. I cleaned mine with Easy Off to remove previous paint and undercoat remnants, pressure washed then degreased and painted with Krylon Satin Black.



Old Feb 4, 2025 | 06:15 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by VI Cutty
I think original red fenders are worth the time to restore, but black ones can be painted. I cleaned mine with Easy Off to remove previous paint and undercoat remnants, pressure washed then degreased and painted with Krylon Satin Black.


If mine are original red, then I'll still take solice in knowing I'm not the first idiot who painted them..haha!

Thanks to Joe's pictures above, I went out while the dog was outside and just placed the tray where it evidently was supposed to have gone this whole time.



..like I said, at least I'm not the first idiot
Old Feb 4, 2025 | 06:16 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by VI Cutty
I think original red fenders are worth the time to restore, but black ones can be painted. I cleaned mine with Easy Off to remove previous paint and undercoat remnants, pressure washed then degreased and painted with Krylon Satin Black.


If mine are original red, then I'll still take solice in knowing I'm not the first idiot who painted the ones on my car..haha!

Thanks to Joe's pictures above, I went out while the dog was outside and just placed the tray where it evidently was supposed to have gone this whole time.



..like I said, at least I'm not the first idiot
Old Feb 4, 2025 | 07:46 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by VI Cutty
I think original red fenders are worth the time to restore, but black ones can be painted. I cleaned mine with Easy Off to remove previous paint and undercoat remnants, pressure washed then degreased and painted with Krylon Satin Black.
Those turned out really nice, Clay. Better than I would have guessed. Any concerns about adhesion issues over the long term?
Old Feb 4, 2025 | 10:36 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by BangScreech4-4-2
Those turned out really nice, Clay. Better than I would have guessed. Any concerns about adhesion issues over the long term?
I was very pleased with the result too...I was skeptical at first myself. A buddy used the same technique for the ones on his '69 Vista Cruiser several years ago and they're holding up very well.
Old Feb 5, 2025 | 03:29 AM
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Greg Rogers's Avatar
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welll...I just found out my tray is in backwards.....hmmmm...
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