IslandOlds

My father has a 64 Olds 98 conv with a 394. It has 76k original miles on it and there is a noise in the engine. Compression check today went 190-195-190-200-185-174-195-140. there was also an odd clanking in the number 8 hole that scored 140. Anyhow, we are going to pull the engine for a rebuild over the winter and since I've mostly worked on Mopars, I'm looking for any tips or tricks to pulling the engine out of this thing. Does the top come off the rad support etc? I do have the set of factory service manual s but I didn't see a section on engine removal to study. Thanks.

Charlie Jones

The top does come off the radiator support. However, not without a lot of other stuff being disassembled.
The easiest way I found to remove these is to remove the transmission first. The rear of the engine must be supported by a jack.
Then remove the hood and radiator. Wiring, fuel lines and exhaust will have to be disconnected. Remove the fan.
After disconnecting the mounts , pull the engine straight up and out.
Make sure the lifting equipment will lift the engine high enough to clear the radiator support.
Trying to pull the engine and trans together would be extremely difficult.

IslandOlds

Thanks for the info. That's exactly what I was looking for. I'm used to small and big block Mopars where I can pull the engine/trans together. Good point about the hoist being tall enough...

Oldskeeper

I have pulled the engine and tranny together and I have pulled the engine alone.
When you pull just the engine I use a piece of 2 inch tubing that J hooks into the frame and pulls the tube against the frame and I welded 2 nuts on each side with threaded rod that can support the engine and lines up with 4 of the bolt locations, I have also just used a ratchet strap from frame rail to frame rail to support the engine.
When removing the engine as soon as it is high enough to clear the upper control arms you can rotate the engine 90 degrees allowing you to clear the rad cradle without hitting anything. The tube I have is shown in one of the tech books ( I forget where) as a tool with a b- number.
Steve

Jakespeed63

Not sure if you yanked this boat anchor out yet, but hope you are prepared for it's excess weight!! I had the luxury of using a friend's shop, with a overhead gantry crane. (only way to fly!!) Disconnecting trans is a bit of a pain, but if using a normal light duty crane, safest bet. Although, as stated earlier, you must support engine properly, when unbolting the two.

Also, have you done research on what kind of expense you are looking at?? A proper rebuild on these Rockets is not for the faint of heart or pocketbook. DO NOT cut costs on good parts. And make sure you are getting the correct Hi-Compression pistons and camshaft. I recommend SS valves. Under $300 bucks from Tony at Ross Racing. (www.rossracingengines.com) This job, even doing it yourself, can set you back almost $3500. There is a complete engine kit, on e-bay motors for like $1800, comes with the correct cam and pistons.

I feel I have a fair amount of experience with these. PM me with any questions. Will try and help you any way I can. Also, money well spent, is having a place like Daytona Parts company rebuild your 4GC carb. It will look and perform like a new one, all for about $450. May seem pricey, until you waste money on a cheap half *** rebuild with gaskets that leak from ethanol.

Brad Penn 30w break-in oil is a must!!! as is their normal 30w oil with zync additive. Expensive, but worth every penny. Last but not least, if you are doing it yourself, get a small de-burring tool and grind all the excess slag from inside the block, at camshaft bores. You can do outside the block too, if you are OCD, like me. Good luck.

IslandOlds

I did get it pulled. It's currently sitting on the stand in the shop waiting it's turn while the car is gone to winter storage. I left the trans in the car and pulled the engine separate. It's definitely different from the Mopars and Chevys I've worked on. First thing is to get it torn down and see what let go then get the block and heads to the machine shop. Probably go from there. I'm sure I'll have lots of questions when the time comes. Thanks. I'll throw a few crappy pics up when I get a minute.

colti

Hi,


can you post some Photos from the Motormounting?
I must change it, but I don´t know how it looks like and
where the Position is.


Thanks


Arvid from Germany

Jakespeed63

Colit, Do you want pictures of the Factory Olds motor mounts, on the frame???
JT

colti

Hi JT, yes the mounting in the frame in the Front. I want to know how to remove
it.

Greetings

IslandOlds

Sad end to this thread. Massive fire at the winter storage facility last night. The 98 convertible is totally destroyed along with my 64 Plymouth and my travel trailer, and about 40 other cars and bikes. Almost makes me sick to think about it. Car was in my family since 1969 and I was it's caretaker and was going to pass it on to my kids. Oh well. Gonna put the motor back together as Garage Art. Paint it up nice and put it in the corner.

Greg Rogers

Wow, what a terrible ending!

Oldskeeper

Sorry to hear this, what a loss but at least no one was hurt.
hope the storage building had fire insurance and everyone can claim some thing.
You can always replace a 64 98 convertible and start over, the engine can be transplanted into it and keep moving forward.
Again sorry for your loss
Steve

Charlie Jones

IslandOlds, you have a PM .

Jakespeed63

Totally sucks. Sorry to hear of the fatality. Nothing left???

JT

IslandOlds

Enough metal for a couple of 12 packs. That's about it. 36 cars and 13 bikes. Oh, and my camper.
http://ocean100.com/news.asp?mn=0&id=469&cc=9&pg=1